how far back through the grits?

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UTMonkey

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Hi all,

I hope this doesn't turn into one of "those" debates, but I wonder how far people go back through the grits when restoring an edge to a blade.

My sharpening regime from grinding is, 200,300,400 and 600 on diamond stones and then 1200 and 8000 on Japanese whetstones.

Now providing I haven't opened any paint tins or run into any nails while using an edge how far back should a go?

Regards

Mark
 
I stop when the iron/chisel will cut the timber I'm using, shh don't tell anyone, but sometimes you don't need the edge to cut into another dimension before you tackle every job.
 
I wasnt going to put up what I do as I'm a butcher compared to many here but it looks like you have the same type of diamond 'stone' as I (four sided??). If I'm being good and sharpening a tool often during use (ie it will still cut but not as well as before) then I'll just go for a quick touch up on the 600. If I have used it a bit more I'll go 400 then back to 600. If I have knackered the edge then I'll go down to 200 and work up. For reference I can only go up to 600 max and I do major re-shaping on an angle grinder - like I said, a butcher... :)
 
The way i tell when i have honed my plane blade or chisel enough on my roughest grit. is you when feel a burr start to form on the back of your blade, this shows that you have put a fresh edge on the steel and from there you can polish the edge up to make it sharp. really it doesn't matter what you grit you start at but obviously it will just take you longer. It also depends of how blunt the blade is as it will take longer for blunt blade to achieve a burr on the back as it would be for a sharper blade. hope this helps.

Woody.
 
UTMonkey":2x9wmmr5 said:
Thanks for responding, so you would start from scratch? In my case 200
That all depends on the condition of the edge prior to sharpening, for intance my Narex bench chisels really ever only need a 'touch up', but my site chisels sometimes catch a hidden nail and need grinding back to primarybevel, and then honing.In that case i would start on 80 grit and work my way through to 600.
 
I go straight to 600 from the grinding wheel, works fine.
 
I'm not really sure that there's an easily describable way to decide how far back to go with resharpening. It's a bit like describing how to fry an egg to someone who's never cooked. Once you've fried a couple of eggs, you just know when things are right.

It probably depends a bit on what tool you're talking about, and what work it's doing. A finish carving chisel or fine paring chisel will start to lose it's razor sharpness quite soon, but a lick or two on the polishing stone and it's OK again. When the lick or two on the polishing stone doesn't restore the edge, it's time to hone again, then repolish and off you go again. With something like a jack plane iron, once it starts to feel that it isn't cutting well, it's probably best to start right back with a coarse grit, though you won't need to go all the way to fine polishing to get it cutting sweetly enough again - it's doing coarser work, after all. A smoothing plane on final finishing work might need regular touching-up on the fine polishing stone, but for general fitting and clean-up work leave it longer, then hone and polish when it starts to lose it's 'bite'.

The best bet is probably not to worry too much about it, just dive in and do what you think seems right. After a while, you'll suddenly realise that it's become second nature; you just do the minimum sharpening to get the work done to the right standard, pretty much without thinking about it. You'll probably find after a while that you effectively ditch all but two, or at most three, grits - a coarse honing grit, a final polishing grit, and maybe one intermediate. I just use two - honing and polishing. If honing takes too long (more than about thirty seconds to a minute), it goes back to the grinder and another cycle starts.
 
If you're using 200 grit, you'd just as well grind and save your time. If you're trying to take out a "ding", and the grit you're using is taking an age, take it slowly or use something coarser before you burn the edge. If you're using a wet stone keep it finer, it'll leaves less work afterwards.
 
UTMonkey":2uuscivt said:
Hi all,

I hope this doesn't turn into one of "those" debates, but I wonder how far people go back through the grits when restoring an edge to a blade.

My sharpening regime from grinding is, 200,300,400 and 600 on diamond stones and then 1200 and 8000 on Japanese whetstones.

Now providing I haven't opened any paint tins or run into any nails while using an edge how far back should a go?

Regards

Mark

This is unanswerable - because it depends how blunt you let your edges get before resharpening.

I would suggest that if the first grit you use takes more than 30 strokes to raiser a burr - you should have started on a coarser grit (a time machine would be handy for this).

BugBear
 
As Bugbear points out, it's all down to your patience. All of those grits will produce a bur on the back of a blade in a controlled manner, it's just some will take longer (much longer) than others. This is also contingent on how much you need to grind away and the hardness of your steel; if you're re-establishing a primary bevel, doing the same to get rid of a nick in the blade, or establishing a camber. The further back you go, the deeper the scratches in the blade and so you'll be tempted to do more sequential finer grit grinds to get them out (leading to more time and possibly eating up the time savings made by using the lower grit in the first place). Thus, it's a multi-factored issue that's not easy to give an absolute answer to. I suppose it comes with experience.

My experience so far with flattening the backs of plane blades and establishing large cambers using a 220 grit waterstone is that I've bought a bench grinder (hammer)
 
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