Hollowing out

[negativegravity]

I made my first hollow form last night - a babies rattle for a friend's child. I had great fun as it was the first hollow form I've made, but without a specific hollowing out tool, and using only a round nosed scraper and a small bowl gouge, it took a while to get an appropriate thickness to create a rattle.

I was just wondering what sort of hollowing out tools people recommend? There seems to be a wide range available, some even having replacable tips.

Cheers

 

[chipmunk]

For small items I'd recommend a spindle gouge with ground back wings. A 3/8 should be ok for most small stuff like boxes and rattles or use a 1/2" for slightly bigger stuff.

You only really need a proper hollowing tool for stuff over about 4" deep or enclosed forms really IMHO.
I make my own tools like this based upon the small Robert Sorby ones for smaller hollow forms...

with replaceable HSS tips.

HTH
Jon

 

[CHJ]

I would advise to stick with the scraper and scraper type tools shown above on small or deep pieces until you get some experience.

Trying to get correct bevel contact as you would with a bowl gouge is difficult in smaller items.

Just remember to keep the scraper or similar cutter as shown above, above the centreline when cutting, say about 10 oclock position.
Then if the tool catches/tends to dig in it will move into free space not dig deeper into the wood as it would if below the centre line.

(the opposite applies outside a form, scrape below the centre line)

 

[duncanh]

When I make rattles I only use standard turning tools. No need for any fancy hollowing tools.
Pretty much all the work is done with a spindle gouge, with a parting tool used for the joint. I don't have any work in progress shots but I'll hunt out some photos of finished rattles

 

[woodpig]

I've just been thinking today I need to make a hollowing tool. I think I'll probably use carbide inserts.

 

[SVB]

I think I'll probably use carbide inserts.

Why? Unless your planning on hacking through some horrible aussy grit impregnated burr all the time, HSS are cheaper, easier to sharpen, more readily available and will take a keener edge.

If you've thought through all the above then accept my apologies, but 'carbide' seems to be the current snake oil the makers have latched onto to flog stuff to folks after the next new thing. Yes, it has uses, but other than some specific areas I really don't think run of the mill hobby turning is one of them.

If you are set on a carbide tip then look for the ones designed for Aluminium rather than general steels as they have a profile better suited.

(I'm off to hide behind sofa now!)

Simon

 

[CHJ]

(I'm off to hide behind sofa now!)

Simon

Why, perfectly valid comments, I use some carbide tips but they are specifically 'wood orientated' alloy and very sharp edged.

Despite them holding a good edge for longer than HSS they do need sharpening and I find diamond stones/cards to be the most effective.

Typical metal lathe carbide tools/tips, of which I have a number, make a very poor fist of removing wood in the configuration as used on a metal lathe.

Home made tools using square section HSS stock (4-5-6mm) as tips are very useful as they can be easily modified for rake etc. to get best finish.

 

[Dalboy]

Having used carbide tools I either am useless with them or just can't get a half decent finish so have relegating them for roughing out (saves having to sharpen my other tools as much and trips to the grinder)

 

[woodpig]

I think I'll probably use carbide inserts.

Why? Unless your planning on hacking through some horrible aussy grit impregnated burr all the time, HSS are cheaper, easier to sharpen, more readily available and will take a keener edge.

Simon

A couple of reasons really.
I've already got some carbide tips like the ones used on the Hunter and Hope wood turning tools. They're really quite sharp and if you go direct to a TCT supplier they're half the price.

I'd really like to avoid having to buy specialist wood turning inserts like the HSS ones if I can. Two reasons for this, cost and actually getting hold of them without adding postage etc.

I will be making some suitably hardened O1 steel inserts because I have some stock of the material and I can make inserts any shape I like.

Update: I used the straight hollowing tool I made recently and it worked very well on end grain yesterday.