help with mortice lock jig

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ciscoeuk

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hi all

i need help or pointing to a plan for a mortice lock jig that does not use bushes, that uses a stop block system and can be made from scap wood from around the shop

i have a new door i have made, and the lock is ready for fitting, the door is not fited yet,

i want to use the router for neatness, i have no bushes, i would like to build a jig that uses stop block system and can be used on differrent size lock and doors

any and all help would be great, photos would be nice

all the best
 
you could have chopped the lock out by the time you faffed about with a jig. jigs are good for multiple locks, 1 lock only though? just chop it out
 
Or at very least just clamp a block of wood at each end as stops and hog out the majority of the waste. Clean up with chisels.
 
wizer":3n9w7ijt said:
Or at very least just clamp a block of wood at each end as stops and hog out the majority of the waste. Clean up with chisels.

thanks, wizer, thats a quick & easy way i will have practice that one, as the door is a one shot deal which i can not afford to screw up

all the best
 
clewlowm":2p0g82ld said:
you could have chopped the lock out by the time you faffed about with a jig. jigs are good for multiple locks, 1 lock only though? just chop it out

i have several other doors to make anyway i like making jigs, once you got you never without it, trying to keep it simple

ric
 
then you are limited to one type of lock, unless you make multiple jigs. then it would be easier to buy a proper lock jig from trend.
 
clewlowm":30vwm70u said:
then you are limited to one type of lock, unless you make multiple jigs. then it would be easier to buy a proper lock jig from trend.

would love to buya a lock jig, but i am broke and out of work again 4th time this year,
 
If you're doing a few doors, buy the morticing jig for your power drill made by souber tools - it is a breeze to mortice a door once it's hung, and at a little over £120 it's very good value, assuming you actually fit locks regularly.

The trend jig may be cheaper, but you'll need kitchen fitters bits and extension collets to get a deep enough mortice for most locks, and even that might not be able to do a 3" mortice.

Hell, if you plan in advance you could cut the mortices into the stiles on the mortiser before assembly, and then just chop in the foreend with a simple 3/4" template and a template bit.
 
Setch":123qxohe said:
If you're doing a few doors, buy the morticing jig for your power drill made by souber tools - it is a breeze to mortice a door once it's hung, and at a little over £120 it's very good value, assuming you actually fit locks regularly.

The trend jig may be cheaper, but you'll need kitchen fitters bits and extension collets to get a deep enough mortice for most locks, and even that might not be able to do a 3" mortice.

Hell, if you plan in advance you could cut the mortices into the stiles on the mortiser before assembly, and then just chop in the foreend with a simple 3/4" template and a template bit.

thanks i will try to the precut job on the next door i make, i have kitchen bits @63mm but no extention at present, but looking as i only have WORX 1/2" 1500 watt router
 
Setch":35naz0w1 said:
The trend jig may be cheaper, but you'll need kitchen fitters bits and extension collets to get a deep enough mortice for most locks, and even that might not be able to do a 3" mortice.
Actually you need extra long deep pocket (12mm diameter not 1/2in like kitchen jig cutters) cutters like these and they'll only do about 70mm depth - the rest you have to clean-out with an auger and chisel. You don't use collet extenders at all (they'd be bloomin dangerous hand held in any case). That may seem like a faff but for batches of doors it's cleaner and less prone to splitting than any other technique I know. There's also the advantage of being able to get a consistent depth of recess for the face place without any crumbling. Have to agree with others, though, for a one off not worth the effort
 
FatFreddysCat":1chnk1k1 said:
Setch":1chnk1k1 said:
Actually you need extra long deep pocket (12mm diameter not 1/2in like kitchen jig cutters) cutters like these and they'll only do about 70mm depth - the rest you have to clean-out with an auger and chisel. You don't use collet extenders at all (they'd be bloomin dangerous hand held in any case). That may seem like a faff but for batches of doors it's cleaner and less prone to splitting than any other technique I know. There's also the advantage of being able to get a consistent depth of recess for the face place without any crumbling. Have to agree with others, though, for a one off not worth the effort

i will be purchase the 70 mm bit at a later date for the other doors, i think i going to use 63 mm and a chisel to finish the last 3 mm,

i will just have to take my time and be ver careful not to split the doug fir frame

thanks

ric
 
most of the time when i'm fitting sash locks i just drill out the waste with a forsner bit and chisel the rest out, i only use my router(with a side fence) for the face plate of the lock. the last external doors i fitted where engineered hardwood, i started at 8 and my painter was priming them at 10. i don't even bother using a jig for hinges, just router again with side fence.

Simples

John-Henry
 
jhwbigley":2gw1i4jz said:
most of the time when i'm fitting sash locks i just drill out the waste with a forsner bit and chisel the rest out, i only use my router(with a side fence) for the face plate of the lock. the last external doors i fitted where engineered hardwood, i started at 8 and my painter was priming them at 10. i don't even bother using a jig for hinges, just router again with side fence.

Simples

John-Henry

i haven't done lock fitting for 25 years,
 
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