Heads Up-Veritas plane blades reduced in price.

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JJ1

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Just a heads up for anyone that may need a spare Veritas plane iron. Axminster have certain ones reduced in price by over 50%. I've just splashed out on a couple of A2 irons for my Low Angle Jack plane, be rude not to at that price :D
 
I've recently bought the Veritas DX60 block plane with the PM-V11 iron and have just fitted a Veritas PM-V11 plane iron and a Ron Hock chipbreaker to an old Stanley No. 4. It's still early days yet as I've only used them a handful of times but so far I'm very impressed indeed. Easy to sharpen using wet & dry stuck paper stuck to glass and easy to produce a razor sharp edge. I haven't used either long enough yet to see how long the edge lasts and to be honest I probably don't have enough planeing experience yet to really know what to expect compared to A2 or O1. One thing that did initially jump out at me with both the block plane and the No. 4 was what a superb surface the plane iron left. It was so smooth it glistened in the light.
I've read many favorable reviews about the PM-VII and personally I was happy to pay the small extra difference in price over the A2.
I found a very noticeable difference in performance in the Stanley No. 4 with the PM-V11 iron compared to the original Stanley iron. I was a bit skeptical about whether the cost of the iron and thicker chipbreaker would be money well spent but I have no regrets and have also upgraded an old No. 4 1/2 and a No. 6. and couldn't be happier with the results.
 
JJ1":2o5v6hag said:
I've read many favorable reviews about the PM-VII and personally I was happy to pay the small extra difference in price over the A2.
I found a very noticeable difference in performance in the Stanley No. 4 with the PM-V11 iron compared to the original Stanley iron. I was a bit skeptical about whether the cost of the iron and thicker chipbreaker would be money well spent but I have no regrets and have also upgraded an old No. 4 1/2 and a No. 6. and couldn't be happier with the results.

Well, the fact that a better blade upgraded your #4 is heartening, but (of course) pretty much expected.

It would be very interesting to hear of the PM-VII in the longer term, especailly in regard of durability and bevel angles (i.e. do low bevel angles survive the odd knot...)

BugBear
 
JJ1":3bx847iv said:
One thing that did initially jump out at me with both the block plane and the No. 4 was what a superb surface the plane iron left. It was so smooth it glistened in the light.

That's the sort of result you should be getting from any well-sharpened smoothing plane iron, whatever type of steel it's made from, modern or vintage. It's a good indication that your sharpening technique is well up to the mark. How long any particular iron will continue to give such results depends rather on the timber being worked, and perhaps on the steel type.

Some say A2 irons hold their edge longer than O1, and PMV-11 is reputed to be a bit longer-lasting again. However, all of them should take an edge that gives the results you describe. Again, some say that vintage cast steel and O1 takes a slightly better edge than A2, and PMV-11 matches the O1. There is also the question of ease of getting that edge; some say vintage cast steel and O1 are easier to sharpen than A2, and PMV-11 matches the O1 for ease of sharpening.

Personally, I have never found any problem getting perfectly adequate performance from good quality modern O1 and vintage cast steel, and all my edge tools are of such grades. I don't have any concerns about edge quality or edge retention; both are perfectly adequate for the work I do. However, I rarely work the demanding exotic timbers, on which the more expensive grades of steel may offer advantage. Whether the additional cost of those grades is justifiable is, of course, a purely personal decision.
 
CC is right. Certainly none of the 'modern' alloys get any sharper than O1 (and some say not as sharp). They are reputed to hold an edge longer but appear to require honing angles of 30* or higher -- not a big deal with a plane iron but could be an issue with chisels.

One is *not hamstrung in the least* by using quality O1 steel. Assertions otherwise miss the mark. You might have to hone a few times more in a working day, but that's about it. If your efficiency would be wrecked by a slightly more frequent honing schedule then one of the newer alloys could be a good choice.
 
Hello,

I got a PM Vll.for a 07 try plane. The original laminated Record iron was OK, but I thought I'd check out the powdered metal offering. Not that I like doing it ( hate with a passion would be more like it) but the first job I put it through was planing the edges of MDF. I work in a school tech workshop, the students come up with all sorts of projects done in a way I would avoid! Anyway, the edge just held and held. Long past the point I would have expected to have to sharpen, I thought ' it must need it by now' and took out the blade and considered putting it to a stone. Looking at the edge, I immediately replaced it, as I could not perceive any visible signs of dullness. Putting it across a bit of walnut I had to hand, it planed it without tearing and it left behind a burnished glow that only sharp irons will. I returned to planing the MDF and some birch ply to boot. It is not an exhaustive test, by any means, but experience tells me that any other irons I have in the collection would have been sharpened at least once or twice to have done the same task. The iron came matte lapped and only needed a few strokes to hone it to razor sharp. 8000 grit water stone in my case. The only dislike is the fact that the usable length of the iron is not quite as long as I might like, compared to other aftermarket blades. I suppose it is expensive metal, and purchase costs have to be kept within reason.

Mike.
 
That's a good point Mike. If you have an abrasive workflow then it's worth looking at.
 

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