Garden gate

[mike j]

Hi, i am going to make a garden gate, the gate does not need to be heavyweight as it is not for security but more for partioning of a section of garden.

The gate itself is going to be about 3 foot by 4 foot, i was thinking about making it from two vertical stiles, 3 horizontal rails, and then diagional bracing.
Or making from three horizontal stiles. and two diagonlal braces (one on the bottom half of the gate, and the other on the top half of the gate), which is style of the neighbours gate..

My questions are :
1. what style do think would be best?
2. What size timber would be best? I do have some 5" by 1" treated timber in the garage, would that be alright to use?
3. What type of joints should i use to make the gate?

As you can probally tell i am not a chippie by trade, but i am a keen woodworker.

Thanks in advance

 

[JFC]

Your first idea of two stiles and three horizontal rails with diagonal braces would be best IMHO .
The 5 X 1 would be good to infill a 4x2 frame work .
I would mortice and tenon the joints .

 

[mike j]

Thanks for the qick reply JFC , when you say the 5 by 1 inch would be good for infilling, do you mean to use the 5 by 2 inch as cladding screwed to the framework :?

 

[Pecker]

Mike, we make a lot of gates ( see my website - funnily enough actually just putting together a whole new page of gates as we speak).
Style is purely a personal thing, but totally agree with JFC about his choice of style and joints. Just as a note, we also tend to either wedge the M&T or dowel straight thru. From experience we have found these give long lasting joints.

Timber wise, your treated wood should be fine, we generally use Redwood, but thats because obviously we need nice end prodcuts.

Good luck

woody

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I made a pair of gates for a neighbour from 3x2 pressure treated timber from Wickes using through tenons, wedges and waterproof glue with one diagonal brace half lapped in to the middle rail, faced with their 6 inch wide gravel boards that are meant to be used at the bottom of fence panels, I rebated them on opposite edges so they over lap and cut points at the top. I fixed them on with ring shank nails, they are lasting a treat, luckily for me :lol: I got lucky with the posts they are the orignal 8 inch 45 year old square oak posts totally sound, apart from the one attached to the house the fixings had rusted through so I bolted to the house with some 10mm stainless steel studding.

Pete

 

[OPJ]

Remeber: if you're only going to use two diagonal braces (one top, one bottom) then you should have the fixed so they're pointing up and towards the top corner of the non-hanging side. It's all to do with downward forces and compression against the hinge side.

Alternatively, of course, you could opt for more of an A-frame arrangement meeting in the middle of the top rail. It isn't necessary to house the braces in, certainly on such a small gate. A pin in each corner will do.

 

[Pecker]

Remeber: if you're only going to use two diagonal braces (one top, one bottom) then you should have the fixed so they're pointing up and towards the top corner of the non-hanging side. It's all to do with downward forces and compression against the hinge side.

yes, obj i agree, but perhaps just to clarify here, think of the hangmans gallows for the diagonal bracing, the weight goes from far top (where the rope would hang from) to the opposite bottom hinged side.

Traditionally there is actually a name for that joint where the diagonal brace meets the middle rail, and it is slightly set in on an angle, but I'll be blowed if I can remember the name of it. Either way, no real need to house it in if you make everything else strong enough. LOL.

woody