Furniture made with reclaimed scaffolding boards

[blakemattyb]

Hi all

I am toying with the idea of making some items from scafold boards, namely a bookcase and a storage cabinet. I am going to use the dimensions from the boards for the lay out, such as the bookcase will be 1 board deep the storage cabinet 2 boards deep etc.

Where i am usiing the 2 boards i was wondering the best way of joining them together along the length. I can easily fix them together with batons in the inside corners but was wondering how bad a gap would be down the centre and also its resulting strength. I am aiming for the rustic look hence the material choice this isnt fine furniture i am making.

So my question is how would you join together the boards?

I was wondering of lightly planeing one edge of each board and glueing, or maybe i could lightly plain and then use a thick dowel to fix together maybe? Idealy i would imagine a biscuit joiner would be handy here but i dont have one sadly.

I was also thinking for the joins for the rustic look i was going to butt join but this wouldnt be to strong so i was thinking of a couple of visible dowel joins and lots of glue?

I understand this rustic design doesnt appeal to all but i think it does to some at least.

Thoughts and suggestions welcome thanks.

 

[blackrodd]

Dowels would be best for you in this situation, I would say.
Just mark out with the two edges to be joined uppermost and use a square and marking gauge.
If you use plain or home made dowelling, don't forget to cut a small groove down the length to allow air and any excess glue to escape, a fine panel or tenon saw will do.
As you say, scaffold boarding is not to every ones cup of tea I believe they are mainly sourced from western white spruce, which is a most brittle and un interesting species.
Watch out for knots, they can break up while machining and apart from the bang, the bits are like bullets!
HTH, Regards Rodders

 

[blakemattyb]

Hi thanks for the feedback

I have some dowel i reclaimed from a old clothes horse (Beech wood i think) that i was going to use i think its about a cm in size maybe a little bigger. Are you suggesting i place a groove down the dowel to allow the glue and air to escape?

I aim to retain the wear marks etc and think a medium oak stain would help highlight the depth of the marks etc.

Thanks

 

[blackrodd]

Yep! a groove down the dowel length, to allow air and glue to escape.
A 10mm or 3/8" would be a bit on the small side 12mm or 1/2" would be better sized.
If you can find a piece of mild steel, about 30mm wide by 5mm thick, drill a 12mm hole in it, preferably in a drill press, while holding the steel in a hand vice.
BY Drilling quite fast, when finished, you will see on the underside an edge has been formed, which will cut you're dowels free, using that as the top cutting edge and fixed in a decent vice
Saw any timber to the exact size, about 2' lengths, then round and bevel the first 2, or 3" and bash 'em in with the hammer
They are well sized and have a textured finish well suited to accepting glue.
It would possibly be better to just glue the dowels in place, As the finish you are looking for may call for the joined edges to be left as is.
Regards Rodders

 

[Richard863]

Hi blakemattyb
Your very brave to attempt what you propose. It goes with out saying do beware of hidden nails and embedded concrete. There can't be anything more damageing to tools
and equipment than the builders timber I have seen.

good luck
Richard

 

[blakemattyb]

Brave or stupid i dont know lol. I have a few boards that look in well used but good condition and dont appear to have anything but paint splops on them but naturally i will check them over thouroughly if nothing else but my own safety. I have an old speaker magnet which i will be using to check for stray nails etc and a good wire brushing to clean them down before i put any tools near them.

 

[d c]

i've recently made a couple of items using reclaimed scaffold boards and joists, a tv unit and side table. i planed the edges and made biscuits from some thin ply inserted into slots cut with a circular saw (two cuts side by side to take the ply) then glued and cramped them together. i have since bought a biscuit jointer which has made life easier.
one thing i would say is that the joints between the uprights and top moved once they were indoors, they cupped, the joints were glued and screwed and plugged. the joint along the length was fine.
i suggest letting the boards acclimatise to the environment where the finished item will be before starting work

 

[blakemattyb]

Next question i have is what would be the best way to get that darker wood finish? I dont want to stain them and i am wondering about maybe using a wax with a medium oak colour, or maybe part mixing a dark oak in as i rub it in and make a 'wash' of meduim and dark oak? I have used clear wax on a few things and find it very user friendly and creates a nice smooth textured finish.

 

[d c]

i used sprayed the bare boards with a caustic soda solution which helps the wax take to the wood and then briwax medium brown. it gave a lightish finish. sorry i cant help more as i havent used any darker waxes or dyes yet

 

[blakemattyb]

Thats an interesting idea, i will look into that thanks.

 

[rafezetter]

For the caustic solution - 1TEASPOON per LITRE of water. Extremely dilute. Spray on liberally and leave to dry. If you wanted you can lightly sand the surface with 240grit just to knock off the higher points of raised grain, making the wax a little easier to buff off. Using a paintbrush to apply the wax is better for this sort of rustic wood and finish.

You might wish to google the woodwork of a guy called Rico Daniels aka "The Salvager" who had a tv show making furniture of this type - very popular and pretty straightforward.