Fitting door lining your prefered methods

[Woody Alan]

Hi All

Following on from my hanging the door question. Prior to hanging the doors I have to change the door linings from 1960's pine to 1" thick oak. Previous experience of fixing linings into thermalite block (at least when in line with the wall) has found that sometimes the block can split away.
What fixings do people prefer to use and how many at what spacings?
I have to fit some 4" wide some 5" and a couple 6" so plenty of variety.

Cheers Alan

 

[chippy1970]

No real easy way Alan

I find its best to have five pairs of fixings down each side of the lining evenly spaced out and about 2" to 3" apart horizontally if you can angle them in so that your not fixing into the edge of the blocks.

I would just use 4" screws and brown plugs (7mm) which can be hidden behind stops or pelleted then for extra security foam fill behind the linings.

I think you can get special fixings for thermalite blocks but I have never used them.

Fixing to thermalite blocks is just the worst thing you can fix to and they are a real pain only good thing is you don't need a hammer drill :lol:

 

[speed]

if fit the same as chipp

just a thing to remember, dont put a screw were the hinges and keep will be to save knackering chisels

 

[jasonB]

I fit in the same way.

Can I suggest that you hang the doors in the linings and then fit as one unit, this allows the lining to be shimmed and tweaked for out of plumb walls or warped doors and saves having to shoot the door to fit the lining.

Jason

 

[Woody Alan]

Thanks chaps.
I was thinking of buying a foam gun so good to hear someone suggest that. I like the idea of the simple plug idea, probably enough grip without putting too much pressure in the thermalite. Excellent reminder not to do something daft like putting screws where the hardware needs to go. Jason another good idea about fitting the door to the lining and putting in in one hit but damn these doors are heavy.
As a thought how about fitting the door to the hinge side, remove door, fit frame, but securing hinge side only, hang door from it then play with top and other side for adjustment?
I've already given myself grief by cutting a new doorway in and blocking up an old one, did the lintel for that today. Some of the other doorways are not high enough, I think they fitted the lining and then screeded. So when I remove old lining in the supporting walls I am crossing my fingers if there is a cast in situ it's got a gap under so I can raise the lining height or it's acro and SDS chisel time

 

[lostintheforest]

ive fixed into thermalites before and ints a bit dodgy. instead of fixing through the face of the lining if you get some of them frame ties i think they called (metal l shaped straps) and screw them on to the back of the lining. then either dig out the bed joints slide the lining in and re point up or fix into the face of the blocks. its a bit hard to explain but i hope you understand what i mean.

 

[speed]

what bout wooden plugs in the joints?

 

[CNC Paul]

Alan,

In Switzerland I have seen them use just foam...BUT.... they use special clamps to hold the lining in place and stop the foam from distorting the lining.

If you use foam use some spacers and not tooooo much foam.





CNC Paul

 

[Woody Alan]

Lost in the forest
I understand exactly what you mean, but typically the mistake was made in my house as in many others since, and still today. The mortar is mixed far too strong causing shrinkage etc, but in this instance to cut out and repoint would cause more stress to the wall than the end result would achieve, at least that's what I think anyway, and I guess it would be a pipper to shim up correctly.
Speed ...well...erm.. what about them...why would they be better than modern plastic? I do know what you mean, I grew up with my dad who was a plumber, back in the year dot, carving wooden plugs and making lead washers for sanitary ware ( a trick I used recently), but where is the advantage over modern material?

Cheers Alan

 

[speed]

going back to the previous post about just foaming it in,
foam is a exelent product we fix windows in with it and on a few occasions when i have removed a old lining the brick work has been uneven, brace bottom and middle of frame place in opening and a few wedges to tempary hold in place foam it up,

when its dry remove the wedges and add screws, theres no need to then cut spaces etc as the foam has done that job already if you know what i meen.

it will be solid with just foam but its better to add screws to hold it in place as a few years of door slamming will loosen it up