First real learning item

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TobyDavidson

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Well, I thought it was going too well.

I started turning a goblet...

1. Round down the blank with a roughing gouge...check

then I made my 1 st mistake

2. Shape outside of goblet before hollowing. I used a spindle gouge for this but a combination my technique and having quite a square grind instead of a slight fingernail meant I had a couple of quite serious catches. Enough that it then made the blank feel out of true. I reset between spindles and carried on, far too tentatively, which led to more catches. I got out the trusty turning manual (I cant remember who it was by, but it is the one everyone recommends here) and put a profile onto the gouge. It ran much better after that, however I also changed the presentation of the tool.

I'm pretty certain that I caused some weakening to the stem of the goblet with the catches as I had significant flexibility in it after it was done.

I finished off the outside, sanding down to 600 grit however I thought I might have trouble so did not waste sealer or polish at this stage. That could be applied when it was in a chuck.

I was parting off, supporting the cup and stem in hand when it unfortunately let go. Broken stem.

I used the offcuts to make the shape for a baby ratlle and had some good Skew, Spindle and scraper practice with the remains. No pics unfortunately, but even in disaster I have had fun learning.

So, the crux of the question is how should I approach the next one. Here is my plan for the goblet

1. Rough down between Centres. (Including basic finish with my now practising Skew techniques)
2. Part off at approx right length (Allowing for spigot for chuck)
3. Fit in chuck
4. Hollow
5. Finish inside
6. Support with Tailstock (Padded inside Goblet)
7. Turn shape to goblet
8. Finish outside
9. Take pictures and post on forum

Does the above sound logical?


For the rattle, I obviously need safe finishes. Woodwax 22 is safe, but what should I use to glue the 'bung' back in after hollowing out to get the rattle bits inside?
 
Hi, I make really thin stemmed goblets (some break...it happens) and this is the way I do it, others may differ.

1 Rough to a cyclinder and turn the tenon for the chuck
2 Put in the chuck and mark off the basic positions for the base and the cup.
3 Shape the outside but don't go too thin into the stem, just far enough to do most of the bowl
4 Using a finfernail spindle gouge or a bowl gouge shape out the bowl. I bore a hole in the centre with my gouge first and then shape it out by shear scraping from the centre out. Havaing th outside shaped already I can follow the line and get down to 1mm if careful
Clean up, sand and polish the inside of the bowl
Stuff bowl wit loads of tissue. (Use paper not cloth) Bring up your revolving tailstock and move into the tissue with the lathe running until it is just short of being tight. Do it too tight and you will casue the tension to make the stem flex as you cut it. You only want to provide support.
5 Clean up and sand the outside of the bowl and , if required shape your bead at the top of the stem.
6 Turn the stem about 1/2" at a time including the sanding and make sure you don't have to come back. If you are confident use a skew ortherwise I find you can use a sharp spindle gouge to skew the stem.
7 It ma be an idea to make sure that the speed is down lower for the last half of the stem. the faster it is running the more chance it will flex and possibly break.
I usually do the foot before finishing the last part of the stem sort of 1/2 & 1/2 until they are both done.


This is just one way and I am sure others have different ways.
Pete
 
having been in george's shop and watched him make this type of goblet i can vouch for this method, indeed i use this method myself now and have had success every time so far (touch wood)..
 

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