First attempt at a goblet/chalice/cup

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gerrybhoy70

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Hi guys,

Been a while since I posted anything, as not been able to get any pieces made due to a variety of reasons.

Anyway, having become a little bored with constant spindle work I decided to make an attempt at a goblet/chalice/cup type thingy.
I think this would come more into the chalice category than anything else, but others may have their own opinions.

Sorry to pics aren't too great, but for now I just want to know if I'm heading in the right direction.

I'm pretty sure the wood is sycamore.
Sanded from 40 to 240. Feels very velvety, if that makes sense.
Currently has two coats of tung oil, planning another 2 or 3 of the same.

Not very deep in the cup - as it was a first time trying this I decided not to go too deep.

The 'chip' off the base is where there was a small knot which has partially broken off.

All feedback/opinions are very welcome.

Cheers

Gerry
 

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Its a shame you didn't try and go deeper as the whole point of a chalice or cup is to hold liquid. Whoever tries to drink out of that will get a reputation for going back to the bar rather often. And it won't be very comfortable to drink out of with that thick edge.

As a first try? Its OK but lacks definition IMHO. You have sanded all the sharp transitions off (assuming they were there in the first place) I have no problem with the departed knot - its wood after all.

I am still at the stage where I am learning every day so my critique is not exactly definitive but, naturally enough, just my opinion.
 
Hi Gordon,

Thanks for your reply.
As I said, all opinions are welcome. They all count & all help.

There really wasn't any definition to begin with, just wanted to get the basic shape and see how I go from there.

The thick edge is purely a knock-on from not wanting to go any deeper with this piece.
My next one (hopefully over the next couple of days *he says, hoping the Mrs doesn't come up with other jobs needing doing*) will have a thinner wall, deeper cup and an attempt at more definition/design.

This one willprobably end up in the burning pile, as it wasn't intended to be a finished article.

Cheers

Gerry
 
Dont get rid of it, keep it as a guide to how you progress.
In years to come you can look back and see how you
have moved on ,or not.
Practice makes plenty of shavings and improves your work.

REgards Boysie
 
Well it's a lot better than my first attempt. My first attempt at using a bowl gouge is still at the bottom of the shavings bin and has a large hole in the bottom where I went too deep...
 
Good for you at having a go Gerry! I too reckon that you should have tried deeper and thinner, but as you said, you have to start somewhere..

One thing to remember when turning anything with a stem and that is to turn the inside first and when you are happy with that turn the outside to match the inner. Work your way down from the top, especially when you get to the stem and then you are always working on stable wood. If you do the stem first you are heading for a break. You need good stability to hollow it out. Also this way you won't go through the bottom because you just follow the inner line with the outer :mrgreen:

Edit : - I forgot to say that when you start, mount you goblet blank so that the top is mounted on a screw chuck or similar and turn your base with a socket or tenon so that you can reverse it to turn the inner (if that makes sense?) I have turned blanks to round between centers and turned a dovetail spigot on what will be the top. This is to hold the blank so I can turn the base. Sorry for the rambling, easier done than said in this case?

When I'm doing a bowl it's always the other way round and the base and outer is turned first. That way you can hold the blank with a face plate or screw chuck to turn the holding bit on the underside so that you can do the hollowing.
 
Hi

Whilst not wishing to offend those purists who can produce goblets with a deft swish of a spindle gouge, (not me :( ), I've had sucess by initially boring the work with a forstener bit and then tidying up with a spindle gouge / scraper, not recommended with a screw chuck though :wink:

Regards Mick
 
Thanks for all the replies. Everything being taken on board. :D

Unfortunately I don't yet have a chuck/screw ckuck of any description, so I'm doing this on a faceplate. :cry:

I have today been a bit more adventurous, going deeper and making the walls thinner (can see light coming through if held up to it).

I've added a couple of pics here to let you see what I've done.
Apologies again for poor quality pics.

As always comments, suggetions, critique always welcomed.

Gerry
 

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Well, I could actually drink out of that one :D

Now you are getting more adventurous, you can start thinking about shape and finish a bit more. Maybe finish first though, the shape thing will come with practice and skill.

i can see some tool/ sanding marks which would be removed with a bit more time spent. But as its No2 I reckon its more than 50% better so thats progress init?
 
Thanks again Gus.

If you're meaning the 2 lines at the top of the cup, they were put there deliberately. :)

Definitely agree with you though - need to work on my finish and then my shape.

Cheers again.

Gerry
 
Gerry, I have heard that Gordon drinks out of his hands/bottle/pan/pot/guzunder or anything else he can get at the end of his arms... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Seriously though? That looks better!

If all you have is a faceplate what you could do is to screw a 2" piece of good pine onto it and turn it round and flat, hot glue your blank onto it (if you haven't got a hot glue gun then they are worth their weight!) Turn the base nice and flat.

Take the blank off of the wood on the faceplate and turn that faceplate wood back true flat (it's always a good idea to scriba several lines on the faceplate wood to help realign) and reglue the blank onto it. From then on be careful, but you can turn the inside of the goblet, or whatever, from there.

When you come to remove the piece of art from the hot glue just ease a chisel under it and tease it away from the hot glue chuck!

Job done, star in the making and invest in a scroll chuck and screw chuck because it is SO MUCH easier :mrgreen:

Good luck!
 
I made a screw chuck before I bought anything; ply on your face plate, central hole drilled while lathe spinning to ensure central, then a No.12 screw driven through from the spindle side. It might not look fancy but in practice it's easily good enough for goblets.

And the progress from your first to your second is quite marked. Very nice.
 
Good for you Mike!!

Gerry, once you have the blank mounted on the hot glue and mounted on the lathe, give it a GOOD check and make sure it's secure! I take NO responsibility for the speed of your reactions if it ain't :mrgreen:

In fact? It may well be worth while to 'glue' a blank on and have the SWMBO there when you wind it up and get it to release (???????)? Then say "well my dear. That wouldn't happen if I spent a tiny amount (?) and got a good chuck?

Just make sure that EVERYONE is in a safe place :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Better still, get her there when you 'glue' a blank in position and then show her how 'insecure" it cab be by 'wiggling yer free end'? :mrgreen:

There are some cracking chucks that aren't tooooo expensive!

Good luck! And for Christs' sake don't show her this thread!
 
Hi

It may help to demonstrate how much you can save by careful 'investment' :wink:

The Dakota chuck from Rutlands http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/XT700 is a perfectly functional and cheaper alternative to the more popular branded versions. I have one and apart from the surface finish, which isn't quite so fine, it performs equally as well, (compared to the Supernova and Record chucks that I also own). £70 may sound a lot at the moment but you'll wonder how you ever managed without a scroll chuck once you have one - Christmas isn't that far away.

Oh! and I have no affiliation to any of the above other than a satisfied user.

Regards Mick
 

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