Finishing order

[Grahamshed]

When making the easter egg for the challenge ( The first thing I had turned ) I sanded down and applied two coats of cellulose sanding sealer then two coats of MC wax to all accessible parts while still on the lathe. I then parted off which left a tiny stub at the pointy end to be finished by hand. Duly sanded it was time for the sealer but it was inevitably going to go over the edges of the waxed finish as well.
Does it matter ?
How do you deal with that last little bit ?

 

[Bodrighy]

I buff my work on wheels generally and don't do it until the piece is completely finished. If I use sealer I always lightly sand it back afterwards anyway before applying any final finish as it can sometimes leave marks that don't show until you apply your polish.
Hope this helps

Pete

 

[Grahamshed]

Cheers Pete
I sanded lightly between each coat of whatever but wonder what the chemical compound of sealer does to the wax on the bit already done ?

 

[Bodrighy]

Can't say, not something I have done that I can remember. One way to find out LOL. Worst scenario would be sanding it back again.

Pete

 

[Woodmonkey]

Pete do you use a lathe mounted buffing wheel?

 

[Bodrighy]

Pete do you use a lathe mounted buffing wheel?

Yes, I have the Chestnut wheels. I find it far easier to apply the wood to the wheel than a wheel to the wood. More control. Same with sanding. Where possible I either sand the piece on the lathe or mount the sanding discs on the lathe and apply the wood, especially when cleaning the bottom of things.

Pete

 

[Grahamshed]

Here speaks the voice of inexperience but holding the wood to the sandpaper must require a very light and practised touch. It would be very easy to change shapes that way.
( happy to be corrected )

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Pete do you use a lathe mounted buffing wheel?

Yes, I have the Chestnut wheels. I find it far easier to apply the wood to the wheel than a wheel to the wood. More control. Same with sanding. Where possible I either sand the piece on the lathe or mount the sanding discs on the lathe and apply the wood, especially when cleaning the bottom of things.

Pete

When you say "the sanding discs" Pete. What do you mean specifically? Have you applied some Velcro backed sand paper to a chuck mounted circle of mdf or similar. Or are you referring to a commercially made sanding system akin to the chestnut buffing wheels, but for sandpaper?

 

[Bodrighy]

You know the little 2" discs that you get to stick in your drill? I have one glued into a piece of wood that fits my chuck. I can then run it on the lathe. I also have a similar larger home made one for bigger pieces.

Pete

 

[Bodrighy]

Here speaks the voice of inexperience but holding the wood to the sandpaper must require a very light and practised touch. It would be very easy to change shapes that way.
( happy to be corrected )

I find it the opposite. Much easier to be precise and accurate holding the wood I find

Pete

 

[Woodmonkey]

I thought the idea of the drill discs was to use them on a drill with the work spinning on the lathe to try and avoid the swirl marks? I would've thought that hold a stationary bowl against spinning sandpaper would cause swirl marks?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

You know the little 2" discs that you get to stick in your drill? I have one glued into a piece of wood that fits my chuck. I can then run it on the lathe. I also have a similar larger home made one for bigger pieces.

Pete

wow...yes I use them all the time....in my drill

You must have some skill to manoeuvre a bowl that's in your hand round a stationary spinning disc Pete. I use the Simon Hope arbors and disposable Velcro pads with 2" discs (in a drill) and I cant imagine doing it the other way round. But interesting to learn your method. I've not used the chestnut system yet but seen it demo'd and its clearly an absolute winner for that special lustre on really special pieces of work.

 

[CHJ]

Cheers Pete
I sanded lightly between each coat of whatever but wonder what the chemical compound of sealer does to the wax on the bit already done ?

If using solvent based like cellulose sealer then ignore it, as long as there is no obvious join or blend line just apply new wax. You may have problems if you use Acrylic sealer, being water based it may be more prone to sitting on top of earlier wax.

Never had a problem when repairing a defect or progressive finishing across a piece with cellulose and wax cross contamination.

 

[CHJ]

[......Velcro pads with 2" discs (in a drill) and I cant imagine doing it the other way round. ....

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Yeah....clearly it can be done

I'll give it a try see how it compares to the drill holding approach. I love this forum y'know. Little things like this get you to re-examine common procedures from a different perspective. Often that's all that's needed to take another little leap forward in quality, another little distinction that opens another door to the skill. Brilliant.

Thanks chaps, really useful tip sharing.

 

[Bodrighy]

I thought the idea of the drill discs was to use them on a drill with the work spinning on the lathe to try and avoid the swirl marks? I would've thought that hold a stationary bowl against spinning sandpaper would cause swirl marks?

Depends how heavy handed you are. Also what abrasive you are using. When cleaning up the base of pieces I find it much easier and as yet haven't found any problem with leaving marks. Goblets, small bowls and so on are by far easier this way. I do the main sanding on the lathe before removing.

Pete

 

[Dalboy]

I thought the idea of the drill discs was to use them on a drill with the work spinning on the lathe to try and avoid the swirl marks? I would've thought that hold a stationary bowl against spinning sandpaper would cause swirl marks?

Depends how heavy handed you are. Also what abrasive you are using. When cleaning up the base of pieces I find it much easier and as yet haven't found any problem with leaving marks. Goblets, small bowls and so on are by far easier this way. I do the main sanding on the lathe before removing.

Pete

What Pete said and also it helps to keep the work moving to help get rid of the scratch marks

 

[procell]

I made a 10" sanding disc out of MDF that is screwed to a spare face plate. It is also a fairly easy job to make a Plywood table that fits onto the lathe bed which can have a mitre gauge system similar to band/table saws. You then have a sanding machine that can be used to get accurate angles for segmented work. Its a project I intend to try when I can stop myself from sticking a bit of wood I the lathe and turning it every time I go near the lathe. I suppose it would also be possible to adapt a band saw table to fit onto the lathe bed if you have an old one lying around unused.

 

[Grahamshed]

Cheers Pete
I sanded lightly between each coat of whatever but wonder what the chemical compound of sealer does to the wax on the bit already done ?

If using solvent based like cellulose sealer then ignore it, as long as there is no obvious join or blend line just apply new wax. You may have problems if you use Acrylic sealer, being water based it may be more prone to sitting on top of earlier wax.

Never had a problem when repairing a defect or progressive finishing across a piece with cellulose and wax cross contamination.

Thank you for answering the original question Chas.

 

[Grahamshed]

Pete's method obviously works for him, you only have to look at his work to know that, but for now I think I will stick to feeling fingers applying the paper. Pressure is easier to read that way I feel.