EZ Smart Guide

[Duiker]

Tony,

Is your guard along similar lines to my strip of MDF held on by clamps?

Mick

 

[Alf]

Ah, now that's why an example would have been helpful, Jake.

Presumably the zero insert will prevent the blade guard closing up fully? On the other hand doesn't the zero insert also guard the blade to a certain extent? Although there'd still be an area between the top of the base plate and the top blade housing exposed I suppose, but isn't there always? I can't think; not used my saw for a while. On the other hand, this pic suggests there may be more blade exposed below the plate in some cases, but it may vary depending on the saw? You could email them and ask if you're really keen to know.

Incidentally I thought not moving the saw until it's stopped spinning is basic safety practice? Which of course I follow rigidly... :^o

Cheers, Alf

 

[Jake]

Sorry Alf, being lazy.

Was where I noticed it. Which looks worse than on the Bosch saw pic you just posted.

Being honest, I never do, but I am careful in removeing the saw the from the cut, in the knowledge that the guide will slam shut as soon as it can. I would trust myself to remember not to carry on with such bad habits.

And no, I'm not about to email. Just counter-balancing, perhaps. [/quote]

 

[ez dino]

all the best Chippy !
btw - will dino give the integrated measuring upgrade to present users for FREE ?

No problem for the integrated measuring system.You can have it for free.
BUT ... it comes in one unit with smart clamping,miter,and even repeatability on the cut-off side.:wink:

Thanks houtslager.
YCF Dino

 

[ez dino]

Perhaps someone could pause from their salesmanship to comment on whether or not the system leaves part of the saw blade unguarded, as it looks from the pictures?

Jake. Part of the circular saw blade is open from the factory. Some more some less. If you see other edge guide 'systems', they give you a flat base with no opening for the guard. The Smart base is the first base that allows the guard to operate.
The instructions about waiting for the blade to stop before you lift the saw from the guide rail is for preventing a damage to the plastic edge while lifting your saw. But over time you will develop the teqhnique to lift the saw from the rail without damaging the edge.
But even then. You should wait for the blade to stop before you place the saw on the floor or the table. That's why we recommend saws with electric brake. Resting your saw while the blade is spinning, is asking for an accident. Guards get stock from chips and believing that the guard is going to work all the time, is believing that you must have an accident. :shock:
Safety starts from the material support system. And here is where I like to talk about the Smart Table top kit. I think the material support is more important than the type of saw and the make of the guide rail. :wink:
YCF Dino

 

[johnelliott]

If you see other edge guide 'systems', they give you a flat base with no opening for the guard. The Smart base is the first base that allows the guard to operate.

Festool saws don't have guards because they are plunge saws. As soon as the operator stops pushing down the blade is retracted into the body of the machine.

John

 

[ez dino]

If you see other edge guide 'systems', they give you a flat base with no opening for the guard. The Smart base is the first base that allows the guard to operate.

Festool saws don't have guards because they are plunge saws. As soon as the operator stops pushing down the blade is retracted into the body of the machine.

John

very good point.
I just test the guide control unit on the Ez Smart and the saw of choice was the ATF. You have to see it to believe it. With the repeatability on the cut-off side, (waste) and the combine benefits of the EZ Smart and the ATF ...Is a whole new game.
Unlike the table saw that you have to move the fence on each and every cut, you just slide the wood into the build in side fence of the EZ.
The smart clamping system secures the wood but allows you to push it against the build in fence without re- clamping and until is no more wood left. As a dedicated saw to a guide system, the plunge saw is a better choice. The other good choice is to have a reg. circular saw with electric brake and good dust port that you can use it on and off the guide rails.
And the ideal circular saw is the one that you can use it as a plunge saw and as a regular saw.
until we have our own Smart saw to equal the perfomance of the Ezsmart guide system...you just take your pick.

 

[tim]

I know this thread is about the EZ system but since there is comparison to the Festool system I hope its okay to ask a Festool question>

Does the Festool saw have zero breakout when loose ie not in the guide rail?

Also (and this might seem nuts but i'm thinking about the router possibilities for the EZ system as well here) can you use the Festool plunge saw in the EZ system?

Thanks

Tim

 

[Aragorn]

Does the Festool saw have zero breakout when loose ie not in the guide rail?

Hi Tim
The Festool has an adjustable piece on the offcut side that gives zero clearance.

The green bit in this pic:

There's nothing on the "oncut" side, but Festool is pretty good even still :shock:

Here's a pic of two cuts - one with the guide rail and one without.
Spot the difference!!

 

[Anonymous]

Tony,

Is your guard along similar lines to my strip of MDF held on by clamps?

Mick

Not quite :lol: It's an aluminium clamp not dissimilar to the Trend router guide clamps. Works very well in my opinion :wink:

Aragorn, now THAT is impressive :shock:

 

[ez dino]

I know this thread is about the EZ system but since there is comparison to the Festool system I hope its okay to ask a Festool question>

Does the Festool saw have zero breakout when loose ie not in the guide rail?

Also (and this might seem nuts but i'm thinking about the router possibilities for the EZ system as well here) can you use the Festool plunge saw in the EZ system?

Thanks

Tim

Tim.
Take a look at this photo gallery and you will see the Festool router on the EZ. http://www.eurekazone.com/images/galler ... lery1.html

And the ATF works fine on the EZ. Only one problem that you have will all saws on the EZ. You will lose 1/2" depth og cut. If you're working with thick stock you need a larger saw.
The possibilities with the router...
Traverse routing. Rout without resetting the guide rail on 6" with the standard SRK (smart router kit) and to any length with optional extensions. Same with the circle making. line boring. and dublicating.
You can set the guide rail parallel to your line anywhere from 5" to 11" and you good to go by adjusting the sliding arm.


"The edge of a melamine sheet cut using the EZ Smart guide and circular saw. No obvious edge chipping visible "....... and with a 24 teeth framing blade.

This is from http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/ezsmart.htm
I hope this helps.

YCF Dino

 

[tim]

Thanks Dino. 1/2" isn't so much to lose although IIRC the depth of cut on the Festool is less than average so might make a difference there.

Cheers

Ti

 

[Aragorn]

Tim
The festool depth of cut is 55mm, reduced to 48mm if using the guide.


So... Not even making a stab at my spot the difference competition, then, eh :wink: [-X

 

[tim]

So... Not even making a stab at my spot the difference competition, then, eh

left..... no, right......no, left. Yes left is without the guide. [-o<

Cheers

Tim

'who will blame artefacts in the photo of he gets it wrong' #-o

 

[Aragorn]

Well, Tim, I don't know how you did it, but you're right. Left is without the guide. \/ =D>

 

[ez dino]

Tim
The festool depth of cut is 55mm, reduced to 48mm if using the guide.


So... Not even making a stab at my spot the difference competition, then, eh :wink: [-X

For panel cutting is perfect.
If you need to cut 2" thick hardwoods, then you will need a larger saw blade and with more than 1500 amps motor. :wink:
You may need more than one saw to get the full benefits of ONE EZ.
And they don't even have to be dedicated saws.or routers. :wink:

Another option that you have is to use the EZ as an edge guide in order to gain back the loss of depth cut.
Slide out the antichip edge and slide in the antichip insert AC-1. :wink:
http://www.eurekazone.com/images/galler ... table.html

If you look at the EZ as a competition, that's what you have.
But if you look how to gain from it, that's what you get.
Anyway, the choice is yours.
YCF dino

 

[tim]

Well, Tim, I don't know how you did it, but you're right. Left is without the guide

So obvious - total luck!!

If you look at the EZ as a competition, that's what you have.
But if you look how to gain from it, that's what you get.
Anyway, the choice is yours.

Dino - this could be the old adage of two countries separated by a common language.

I said 'as competition' not 'as a competition' . It clearly is a reasonable competitor for my money with the Festool system. I'm just trying to get some more info on both systems before i make the call to buy one or the other.

Cheers

Tim

 

[ez dino]

Dino - this could be the old adage of two countries separated by a common language.

I said 'as competition' not 'as a competition' . It clearly is a reasonable competitor for my money with the Festool system. I'm just trying to get some more info on both systems before i make the call to buy one or the other.

Cheers

Tim

Tim. My English is very limited. For some strange reason, back in the old country they teach..French.
About your decision. You have made the right decision already by looking at the guided systems. And going for E or F or even E and F you can't go wrong. As long as you don't push the wood into a spinning blade
you OK.
Take a look at the smart table kit. Because without the right material support, no system is complete. (You can make something similar from 2x4s.)
Good luck
YCF Dino