edge routing small pieces

[woof]

Hello all,
Having a nightmare with the simplest of things - trying to put a roundover edge on small pieces of wood (12cm x 7.5cm; 15cmx 15cm) and it keeps catching. Router is in a table, I have turned down the router speed as the cutter diameter is 38mm, bearing guided, but wonder if I really should have it closer up to full speed - the problem is the wood keeps catching when I get to the final pass ruining my hard efforts!
In addition, to do stopped dados in these sizes, do I have to make a dummy jig? I really must find a routing course to go on, since its the one bit of equipment that gives me the willies.
Thanks in advance
Mark

 

[Shultzy]

Mark, I presume those measurements should be in millimetres not centimetres

 

[woof]

No, the wood is in cm, cutter diameter in mm.

 

[Rich]

Hi mark, I'm no expert, but Norm uses a wide piece of timber and rounds over both edges and then cuts them to size on the table saw, much safer that way.
regards,
Rich.

 

[woof]

I'm not explaining at all well. Looking to round over 3 of the 4 sides for the smallest pieces, and roundover all four sides for the square 15cm square. Trying to build a toilet roll holder with square backplate, then two arms out to hold the pin/dowel. Simpler than this

but hopefully gives you an idea.

 

[wrightclan]

You could temporarily attach it to a larger piece of MDF or whatever. Then, you are holding onto a more manageable piece, and keeping your fingers away from the cutter. Hot melt glue or double-sided tape come to mind as a way to attach it. Or you could even use screws, through the "holder" piece, and into the back of the smaller pieces.

As for doing stopped dadoes, I'm thinking you might want to set up an arrangement with a secondary fence at right angle to the main fence. Use the main fence as your stopping point. Use the other fence as a guide for the end of the piece to ride along , and back up the piece with a square backer piece to help maintain squareness with the secondary fence. Hope that makes sense???? :?:

Brad

 

[Gill]

Would this sort of arrangement be of any use to you?

I use it all the time to rout around the edges of door signs and the like, many of which are smaller than the project you're working on. If they're really diddy, I'll use a similar arrangement with my Dremel multi-tool fitted into its dedicated router table.

The key is to make a template beforehand which can be screwed into the back of the wood that is being shaped. Then, simply shape the edge, allowing the bearing on the router cutter to follow the template. In the photograph I'm using a straight cutter but an ogee or roundover bit would work just as well.

If you're worried about putting screws into your wood, I suppose you could use double-sided tape instead. However, in such situations I prefer to fasten my template to the workpiece using veneer pins - the holes they leave are barely noticeable and very easy to disguise.

Gill

 

[woof]

Gill, Brad, many thanks for the suggestions. Will try them out tomorrow evening, and hopefully will stop the wood from flying!

 

[Chems]

Watch this, save you a load of money its 40mins long and really useful, there is a part on routing small objects as well. I watched it last night at about 12pm and was dying to go out an get playing!

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/02/15/podcast-32-router-table-tips-tricks-techniques/

 

[Benchwayze]

Being a confirmed router user... Honest!

Well, by the time you have set up and clamped down for routing, a bench-plane would be dusted down and back on the shelf; job done.

I do use the method already suggested though. Rout the moulding on the edge of a wide piece then cut it off on the bandsaw. Good way to rout the simpler picture frames.

regards
John