Drainage - Plastic to Clay pipe

[Tenacity]

Doing a short run of surface drain. The underground clay is 180/160 and I have a plastic level invert offset reducer (try saying that after a dram or two) to drop in to the 160 and connect up to 110. There is no seal so would it be best to use a silicone bead around it to stabilise the joint or an adhesive seal? Once in place there will be no strain on the socket/joint. Thanks for imparting your knowledge, hopefully.

 

[artie]

I worked in agricultural land drainage for a few years in my youth.
We never reduced the size of a pipe it always increased in size as it lengthened

 

[Daniel2]

That's what the OP is saying @artie .
His existing drain is 160mm ID, and he's connecting a
110mm to it via a reducer.
FWIW @Tenacity , I don't think you need to seal the pipe
in that situation.

 

[Tenacity]

That's what the OP is saying @artie .
His existing drain is 160mm ID, and he's connecting a
110mm to it via a reducer.
FWIW @Tenacity , I don't think you need to seal the pipe
in that situation.

Thanks Daniel2 I had wondered about that, now as a result of your comment I have just realised once connected, and then back filled it can't go anywhere. I like it when a plan comes together, with a little help from my friends

 

[Tenacity]

I worked in agricultural land drainage for a few years in my youth.
We never reduced the size of a pipe it always increased in size as it lengthened

Thanks Artie, as Daniel2 put, below ground I am connecting to the larger clay pipework, reducing it up to 110mm for a surface drain, so the flow goes from the drain, through a small distance of 110mm into the existing 160mm. Would have been easier with a sketch with words It's amazing how many other trades I had to learn about when I trained as a joiner and I've forgot much more than I can remember

 

[artie]

Ahh me getting things ass backwards again.

In that case we just shoved the small pipe inside the bigger pipe about a foot put a few larger stones around it and then some finer gravel and this added another exit for the surface/ground water.

 

[RichardG]

It's more important to make sure the drainage flows cleanly and in the right direction than sealing it. It's worth putting shingle round the joint, allows for a bit for movement and will still drain even it it becomes uncoupled.

 

[Tenacity]

It's more important to make sure the drainage flows cleanly and in the right direction than sealing it. It's worth putting shingle round the joint, allows for a bit for movement and will still drain even it it becomes uncoupled.

Thanks sounds good idea to me

Ahh me getting things ass backwards again.

In that case we just shoved the small pipe inside the bigger pipe about a foot put a few larger stones around it and then some finer gravel and this added another exit for the surface/ground water.

That also works for me, careful I'll star subbing for groundworks next, nah 66 a bit old to start that game

 

[Turnr77]

At any builders merchants you can get black silicone rubber pipe joiners, secured over the pipes with s/steel hose clamps that allow different pipes to be connected and seal perfectly.

 

[Tenacity]

I'm using one of these as it couples but also gives me an offset I need to line up with the surface drain 110 outlet, haven't seen the rubber connectors with an offset, so this should work just fine with a bit o fettlin