Dealing with costly, dry and buckled veneers.

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Thanks everyone. I will as suggested post it in projects.

As to how I got the idea, I wanted to make a small dining table for my daughter and a circular one seemed like a good idea. From there I had the idea of something that was inspired by the source of much of our happiness and not a few woes - the tree. From there the concept just sort of developed and evolved over quite a long period before I started making it. I have to give credit for support and advice in the making and solving the engineering problems to my good friend Bernard Allen, West Dean tutor, where I did quite a bit of the work on short courses over a couple of years.

I am in the process of writing it up as an article for publication. Got half way through it and rather lost the motivation as I am also in the middle of fitting out the workshop following an extension to it, but I will do it eventually.

Jim
 
A really beautiful piece. I particularly like that the table does not rely only on the stunning veneer/ing but is beautifully proportioned overall with some very nice framework beneath.

A table to be proud of - and fine photography.
 
Just to briefly return to the thread I have a good example of what happens when you get it wrong. In this case some beautiful quilted maple, laid, perhaps wrongly with PVA.

008-1.jpg


004.jpg


Enough to bring tears to your eyes. Any thoughts for a solution? There are more smaller cracks on the far side all near the end and fortunately not elsewhere. The table was made about 12 years ago.
 
That is some beautiful AAAAA quilting there Brian! I'd chop it up and make a guitar! :wink: :D

Seriously...what finish is on the table?

I have fixed raised veneers on guitars with a hypodemic needle filled with glue...(big horse type needle) but it is redoing the finish that concerns me here.

Jim
 
jimi43":1xn0fx8y said:
That is some beautiful AAAAA quilting there Brian! I'd chop it up and make a guitar! :wink: :D

Seriously...what finish is on the table?

I have fixed raised veneers on guitars with a hypodemic needle filled with glue...(big horse type needle) but it is redoing the finish that concerns me here.

Jim

It would be good on a Les Paul wouldn't it :D

I had thought about a syringe maybe with stainless steel block and a strong cramp but I know it is PVA (I didn't make it myself) and am not sure if that would work?

I think the finish is Acid Cat. Maybe it can be glued back down without touching the finish. I'm not a finisher myself so looking for outside help.
 
Modernist":12i48x5a said:
I had thought about a syringe maybe with stainless steel block and a strong cramp but I know it is PVA (I didn't make it myself) and am not sure if that would work?

I think the finish is Acid Cat. Maybe it can be glued back down without touching the finish. I'm not a finisher myself so looking for outside help.

Injecting PVA may work, but it's not guaranteed. That is one of the problems with PVA-- it doesn't form a good bond with existing dried PVA. All you can do is try it. You might have to soften the existing glue with a hair dryer or similar, prise up the veneer, scrape away as much glue as you can and then inject.

That, of course, will definitely lead to having to do some refinishing. You may be able to blend in the new with the old using shellac and touch up techniques, perhaps followed by rubbing back all the top and applying an additional coat of polish. That would be the least invasive polish repair, but it could go much worse, eg, a complete strip with methylene chloride stripper and repolishing from scratch.

Your simplest and most economical approach, as far as I can see, is to just inject some PVA, clamp it down using greaseproof paper or plastic sheeting between the cramps and a block of wood and the veneer face. Then see what you have to do to touch up the polish, do that, and tell your customer, if there is one, that the repair may not be especially effective or permanent. If that doesn't work the cost of doing a really effective repair may shoot up exponentailly, and the client really ought to know that in order to decide what to do-- I am of course assuming there is a client, but there may not be. Slainte.
 
Sgian Dubh":2ms5y1vm said:
Modernist":2ms5y1vm said:
I had thought about a syringe maybe with stainless steel block and a strong cramp but I know it is PVA (I didn't make it myself) and am not sure if that would work?

I think the finish is Acid Cat. Maybe it can be glued back down without touching the finish. I'm not a finisher myself so looking for outside help.

Injecting PVA may work, but it's not guaranteed. That is one of the problems with PVA-- it doesn't form a good bond with existing dried PVA. All you can do is try it. You might have to soften the existing glue with a hair dryer or similar, prise up the veneer, scrape away as much glue as you can and then inject.

That, of course, will definitely lead to having to do some refinishing. You may be able to blend in the new with the old using shellac and touch up techniques, perhaps followed by rubbing back all the top and applying an additional coat of polish. That would be the least invasive polish repair, but it could go much worse, eg, a complete strip with methylene chloride stripper and repolishing from scratch.

Your simplest and most economical approach, as far as I can see, is to just inject some PVA, clamp it down using greaseproof paper or plastic sheeting between the cramps and a block of wood and the veneer face. Then see what you have to do to touch up the polish, do that, and tell your customer, if there is one, that the repair may not be especially effective or permanent. If that doesn't work the cost of doing a really effective repair may shoot up exponentailly, and the client really ought to know that in order to decide what to do-- I am of course assuming there is a client, but there may not be. Slainte.

No client- -it's mine. It was my attempt at Krenov inspiration - who I know you love from our conversation at Harrogate :D

IMG_0637.jpg
 
I agree with the idea of injecting glue but would not use PVA for the reason already mentioned - it does not bond well with itself. My choice for this job would be a cascamite type UF glue. A convexly curved caul clamped at the edges will hold it down.

Jim
 
Modernist":vtzt4lvn said:
No client- -it's mine. It was my attempt at Krenov inspiration - who I know you love from our conversation at Harrogate

Ha, ha. 'Love' might be slightly overstating my admiration for Krenov's work. Slainte.
 

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