Correct router bits/usage to make a money box (pic included)

[MrBThatsMe]

Hi I'm pretty new to wood working and have never made anything such as a money box that needs to be precisely cut and finished in order to look good. I tried my jigsaw but the hole was not good at all; the front was good but the back was much bigger in diameter due to the blade not remaining perfectly vertical throughout the cutting. I've just bought a router but I have no bits yet. The wood I have is about 45mm thick. My router accommodates 1/4 inch or 1/2.

I was going to buy cheap bits off Amazon but the reviews lead me to believe I'd be much better off going for some higher end bits, as long as they won't cost me a fortune.

Any advice you could give me is much appreciated!

I've attached a picture of a similar money box to the one I want to make. My main concerns are the accurate cutting of the hole which will be 90mm diameter with a rebate (correct word?) around the rim of 5mm width which brings the total diameter to 100mm. I have a 100mm acrylic disc that I will glue into the rebate.

At a guess I'd be looking at a kitchen worktop style straight bit, and a rebate bit. Please help me, thanks!

 

[oakmitre]

Are you just making the one money box or do you hope to make a series of them ?

 

[Dan j]

Do you have collets/guide bushes to fit your router? If so then probably making a template of some kind and then using a straight bit/rebate bit will work ok.
Cheap straight bits generally aren't too bad, its when you have bearing guided bits or fancy moldings the quality of the bit becomes an issue.

if you can remove the bulk of the material before you start routing and then use the router to give a clean finish may work in your favor as cheap bits don't keep their edge that long.

 

[ColeyS1]

How about gluing it up in 3 pieces, or would you refer it solid ?

Coley

 

[oakmitre]

First of all, learn how to make a router circle cutting jig.

They are simple to make. Instructions can be found at http://www.wealdentool.eu/rf_tips/rf_tips_04.html

This is the basis for cutting accurate circular holes into a template.

The template can then be used to bush route or trim route (usually more accurate) circles in any material underneath. This method means that the waste side is in the hole, so if you stray away from the template it should not affect accuracy. Doing it the other way (tracing round a template) means that if you stray, it cuts into your workpiece.

I would make a three layer sandwich of 9mm or 12mm MDF. I would screw it together at the edges, the screws act as alignment pins for the template later. Drill or plunge route a hole right through the material (make sure you have a backer board underneath).

Insert the locator pin of your circle cutting jig into the hole and cut the first larger circle on the top.Flip over the sandwich and cut the second smaller circle in the same way.Unscrew everything and throw away the centre board.

You then have two perfectly aligned concentric circle templates with locator pin holes. If you are able to secure your workpiece with two towers either side with holes for the pins - these can be two thickness's of 25mm MDF for example. Then the templates can be swapped to produce the effect you want accurately and a very little cost and using just about any straight bit that can be plunged.

Sorry this was a bit long winded - but that is how I would do it.

Matt.

 

[Bm101]

Can't help with advice I'm afraid, I'm new to routing too. I've been around this forum long enough to know that two toolmakers are consistently praised on here. Tuffsaws for bandsaw blades and the Wealden Tool company for router bits as OakMitre has linked to above. Facing the same dilemma recently I ummed and ahhed just long enough to realise 'cheap shoes get holes'. Chances are you're going to use a straight bit many times. Why compromise for the sake of a pound or two. If it was a bit you might only use rarely then it might be different. In my case at least I decided to buy individual bits from Wealden as I need them. To me it's peace of mind when metal bits are spinning faster than my eye can see. Just my opinion of course and one not tempered by experience. Might help a bit?
Cheers
Chris

 

[oakmitre]

Just thought I would mention if you have never used a router before.

Possibly the most dangerous thing you can do is start the router with the stationary bit in contact with the workpiece. When you are routing smaller stuff it is very tempting to do.

A couple of years ago I was routing on a workmate in the back garden. With the router turned off, I aligned my bit next to the MDF I was going to roundover. I was trying to avoid cutting something next to it. As I stood up slightly the router moved and came into contact with the MDF. I switched the router on and it kicked, gouged the top of the board and pulled my arms forward.

If I had been standing on the other side of the board it would probably have cut my stomach open.

Always make sure the cutter is spinning and then move it into the workpiece observing the correct direction of motion for the cutter. In the case of the cylinder you are trying to plunge, say for example you wanted to use a fixed base router with no plunge (as is the case with many trimmer type routers), then I would drill a large hole (hand drill or pillar drill) using a 1" forstner bit in the middle of the cylinder. You can then start the cutter in that hole being careful not to touch the sides, then move to the edge of the template.

There is some safety advice on the same site I linked to.

 

[MrBThatsMe]

Wow thanks for the help guys it will take a few reads for everything to make sense to me but I'm sure I have all the info I need now.

To answer a few questions - no I don't have any guides etc yet and yes I'd prefer to make the money box out of a solid piece of wood or if not, joining two pieces of the wood I already have to have it double the thickness. I don't plan on making more than one although I may make other designs as gifts for people (kids mainly ).

Thanks a lot!

 

[ColeyS1]

Might be obvious but do all your routing with the largest piece of wood you can- Like don't cut out the tiddly fiddly shape until you've done the routing. Its alot easier to balance a router on a large piece, also makes securing the workpiece much easier. What router did you get ?

Coley

 

[oakmitre]

MrBThatsMe

If you go onto YouTube and type "Ron Fox Router" - he is the man on the Wealden site, although I believe he has now passed away.

He has an introduction to routers, and a series of videos showing step by step guides to making jigs. The pace is fairly slow but does show you every step of the way building up from very simple to more complex jigs.