Cleaning Up Through Wedged Tenons On House Door Stiles

[pollys13]

A friend said they would saw off the ends of through wedged tenons and clean up the remaining few mm with their heavier Lie Nelson 5.1/2 jack plane.

The Axminster Rider No 5 jack plane is lighter and I thought that it might be suitable for this job. That said asking about the Rider in an earlier post on this forum. I'm now thinking of getting a Qiangsheng No 5 Jack Plane, which is on special offer from Rutlands at the moment. Would this be OK for cleaning up the tenons also for cleaning up sawn off door horns. I have a Qiangsheng No 4 smoothing plane, could I use this for cleaning up the horns and tenons?

I see there is a Quangsheng No. 5-1/2 Bedrock Pattern Jack Plane.

Would this Hilka be OK for sawing off door horns and through tenons? Ebay number 200988802561 Not found out blade depth but think is enough to handle each of the twin tenons on a doors lock or kick rail, if rails are wide enough to require twin tenons.
I can also get a pack of 3 for £10.95 inc post a saving of £5.50 compared to buying singly.
Cheers.
Peter.

 

[custard]

Don't sweat this decision too much Peter. Cleaning up wedged through tenons can be done with whatever plane you have at hand, if it's a showy piece of Arts & Crafts furniture you'll maybe want to take a tad more care with the through tenons, but for a door just go to it with whatever tool happens to be in your hand.

I see this all the time, woodworkers who are relatively inexperienced getting very hung up about this tool versus that, in truth it matters far less than you'd think. A sharp tool and you'll be just fine!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

:lol: I just posted the same, but my post seems to have disappeared into the ether. If you had a hundred doors to do quickly, it might justify thinking differently, but otherwise that is precisely it.
An afterthought - I knew and worked with a chippie who only had one plane (a Stanley No.5) as long as I knew him (40yrs).

 

[pollys13]

Don't sweat this decision too much Peter. Cleaning up wedged through tenons can be done with whatever plane you have at hand, if it's a showy piece of Arts & Crafts furniture you'll maybe want to take a tad more care with the through tenons, but for a door just go to it with whatever tool happens to be in your hand.

I see this all the time, woodworkers who are relatively inexperienced getting very hung up about this tool versus that, in truth it matters far less than you'd think. A sharp tool and you'll be just fine!

OK brill, will use my Quangsheng No 4 smoothing plane. Regards a cross cut saw felt one with resharpenable teeth, for me would be a false economy, post cost there and back and sharpening charge. I mentioned the Hilka cross cutting saw ebay item 121216454799
Can buy one or a set of 3 at a saving. Would these Hilka saws be OK? I'll be working Utile

I've been thinking about making a suitable workbench for a while and actually looking into it properly for about a fortnight.
See my post on this I'm just about to do.

 

[Eric The Viking]

It's a bit late for the last offer, but a friend and I got a couple of these Lidl Japanese saws:

(seven quid for a handle and two blades; ours have red handles otherwise identical). They're about 6" long and not quite as good a finish as my posh Hassumne ones from Axminster, but mine has become the 'go-to' saw for trimming dowels etc.

They would be perfect for tenon trimming. If you're worried about scuffing the surface, you could tip the saw very slightly (couple of thicknesses of paper should do it, just behind the teeth when you start it). The finish is pretty amazing for a really cheap saw, and they're very toolbox-friendly (even come with plastic blade guards).

I have a posh one from Crown Tools too:

It's lovely - beautifully made and also not very expensive from Bristol Design - but it doesn't cut quite as fast nor leave quite as fine a finish.

 

[pollys13]

It's a bit late for the last offer, but a friend and I got a couple of these Lidl Japanese saws:

(seven quid for a handle and two blades; ours have red handles otherwise identical). They're about 6" long and not quite as good a finish as my posh Hassumne ones from Axminster, but mine has become the 'go-to' saw for trimming dowels etc.

They would be perfect for tenon trimming. If you're worried about scuffing the surface, you could tip the saw very slightly (couple of thicknesses of paper should do it, just behind the teeth when you start it). The finish is pretty amazing for a really cheap saw, and they're very toolbox-friendly (even come with plastic blade guards).

I have a posh one from Crown Tools too:

It's lovely - beautifully made and also not very expensive from Bristol Design - but it doesn't cut quite as fast nor leave quite as fine a finish.

Thanks for reply, see the red ones are available on Ebay, fine and medium blade, no beam on these saws that could prevent depth of cut. These are pull saws?

 

[Jacob]

Special tenon/dowel trimming saws are completely pointless - you can't get them that close without catching the face of the door.
Much easier and faster to use a tenon saw and to clean up with a sharp plane (any old plane, but if one handed then a block plane). The work of a few seconds. Have done 1000s with zero problem.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Yes, they are pull saws.

But, although I like my Japanese saws, I defer to Jacob's long experience in these matters.

If he says it's faster with a tenon saw and a plane, he'll be right.

Regards,

E.

 

[Trafalgar]

A proper flush-cut saw has no set on one side and won't mark the adjacent surface but has to be used in the correct orientation -- unset side down -- each time.

That said, it's easy enough to cut close with any old joinery back saw and then whittle, chisel, plane, sand it down from there - whatever works.

 

[pollys13]

Special tenon/dowel trimming saws are completely pointless - you can't get them that close without catching the face of the door.
Much easier and faster to use a tenon saw and to clean up with a sharp plane (any old plane, but if one handed then a block plane). The work of a few seconds. Have done 1000s with zero problem.

OK thanks, cross cuting tenon saw it is then.