Best way to transport a Startrite 351

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YorkshireMartin

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I've just bought myself an old 351. I need to collect it at some point this week but I'm not sure how to physically get it into the car or what tools to take with me.

I'm thinking the following:

2 man lift
Split base from top
Remove Table
Place face down in boot to avoid motor protrusion

Tools to take: socket set with various adapters, allen keys, adjustable wrenches and a can of wd40.

This is coming directly from a school so should have been properly maintained, but that doesn't mean it hasn't got the odd ceased bolt I suppose.

Is there anything I'm overlooking with this? Bit nervous!

Many thanks in advance
 
Dismantling sounds about right, but may need a car with boot that extends into an estate type or the lip of the car may be very difficult. Not done that model myself but my car does convert. See if the school would split the base and top for you before you arrive?
 
I'd ask the school itself for advice. They must have moved it around themselves and can probably advise on the best method specific to that environment. It will also give them a heads up in regards to your own transport intentions which again they can probably assist.
 
do you have any options for not dismantling fully- van, trailer etc? I havent seen the 351, but my for my large axminster one, I took off the cast table and laid the saw on its spine. My first choice would have been to stand it up, but I couldnt secure it on my trailer doing that. You do not really want to put it on its side for fear of twisting, although I am not sure whether this is a real rather than theoretical risk.

The problems with dis-assembly is that there are often things connected that are best left if possible. wires and switches for example. I disassembled/stripped a simple bench drill for refurb, and was surprised how far I had to go to simply remove the base from the top half. You also have the issues of ensuring alignment afterwards on a bandsaw.

How far is it going? A man and van may be an option, particularly if you are not going far. It may well have a tail lift, and you could be loaded in 10 minutes and unloaded in another 10. You could soon spend a few hours assembling and dis-assembling
 
Alexam":39w7nvbt said:
See if the school would split the base and top for you before you arrive?
I'd choose to pull as much apart myself, unless hugely pushed for time. That way you know how it should fit together and if anything is missing.
To Martin's list;
A digital camera. Take pictures of it whilst you disassemble it to keep track of what goes where.
Ring/combination spanners, on my 301(which is just a baby 351) getting to some of the nuts is quite tight and an adjustable or socket may not be the optimum tool. I think 13,15,17,19 are the most common sizes on my Startrite.
A couple of screwdrivers in case dust extraction needs to be removed.
A bag/box/mag tray for all the bits you take off so you don't loose anything.

If it's your first bandsaw, a pair of rigging gloves/gauntlets for taking off the blade and possibly eye protection. Even blunt ones have a habit of twisting and springing about unexpectedly and can give some nasty scratches when you first deal with them.<sorry if this is telling you how to suck eggs, but.....>

As Alexam says, you'll need a capacious vehicle. They're pretty heavy to manoeuvre and make sure it's tied down securely in transit.

Great saw though.
Ordered your first blade from Tuff saws yet ? ;-)
 
marcros":nhc58cs6 said:
do you have any options for not dismantling fully- van, trailer etc? I havent seen the 351, but my for my large axminster one, I took off the cast table and laid the saw on its spine. My first choice would have been to stand it up, but I couldnt secure it on my trailer doing that. You do not really want to put it on its side for fear of twisting, although I am not sure whether this is a real rather than theoretical risk.

The problems with dis-assembly is that there are often things connected that are best left if possible. wires and switches for example. I disassembled/stripped a simple bench drill for refurb, and was surprised how far I had to go to simply remove the base from the top half. You also have the issues of ensuring alignment afterwards on a bandsaw.

How far is it going? A man and van may be an option, particularly if you are not going far. It may well have a tail lift, and you could be loaded in 10 minutes and unloaded in another 10. You could soon spend a few hours assembling and dis-assembling


300 miles. :shock:

I know what you mean about taking it apart and the transit is a worry for me too, but they have no means to pallet it and to be honest, the last courier who moved a pallet to here didn't give two hoots about it, so I'd think it's as much at risk in the hands of a courier as my own lol.

The school have never moved it themselves and were hoping the buyer would know..
 
i wasnt thinking of a pallet courier- too many horror stories! But the distance is probably a bit too much anyway for a man and van type service.
 
When I collected mine I used a horse trailer and a sack truck which made it very easy having a low loading ramp.
 
Should be easy enough, all you need to do is take the table off and if you feel the need unbolt the stand also.

Ten minutes with an adjustable spanner and/or socket set and you'll be on your way :)

Cheers, Paul
 
I wheeled my 352 out on a sack truck and slid it into the works transit on its back and drove it home.

But for a longer distance I would take the table off mine you can use the supplied spanner to remove it.

Pete
 
I just removed the table (4 bolts) to reduce weight and me and my son loaded my bandsaw (Scheppach Basato 4) into the back of the car (hatchback with rear seats folded down), laying it on its side. Everything else was left in place. Could have removed the base if length was an issue (it wasn't - just) and no problems encountered.
 
When I bought one it turned up in the back of a Mitsubishi pick up truck. the seller and his son dropped it off after a 100 mile trip. No damage, no problems. :D

David
 
My take - the bandsaw weighs in around 100 kg so a comfy 2 man job plus a trolley/skid. I'm sure a school will have some gear. Rent a transit type van.

Last time I rented a transit [Oct '14] it was only £32 for the day from Hertz unlimited mileage. You can pick up to suit and drop back within 24 hours giving you an overnight option as a possibility. No need to dismantle and no risk of damage to your car/the saw.
 
Great info guys thank you, its set my mind at ease somewhat. I'm going to go for belt and braces. I can borrow a heavy duty sack truck from next door so thats taken care of. Looks like I'll be making up a toolkit for this. Car is going to be large enough I think although the tail gate is high so I'll have to plan for that too.

I think I'll probably use a couple of lengths of 2x4 to slide it in and leave them in place for the other end. Should help.

Love the idea for the horse trailer but my driving licence doesnt allow me to tow a trailer that would be large enough, and I haven't got a tow bar :(

The school dont have anything to help lift it, but I'm hoping they might chip in a spanner if I'm short of a size. It will be high pressure as I dont have long to shift it, also, it will be dark as I can only collect after 3.30.
 
Sounds like a great buy, the ex-school ones seem to be more up to date with all the safety bells and whistles.

Good luck with the move!
 
Ive picked a few heavyish machines in my hatchback. Ive found its best to put the seats down, cut an 18mm sheet of mdf or osb board to fit as big an area as possible.

The board protects the car but also you can put in your machine, then screw battens around the machine on 4 sides, nice and tight. I also have made a ply saddle to sit over the tailgate - cut with a jigsaw to follow the shape then lined with a bit of rubber. It can then take the weight of the machine, so easier to lift and no risk of damage.

I always take ratchet straps and tighten them onto mounting points on the car. Dont forget your new bandsaw could become a deadly weapon if you crash!

Or forget the above just stick it on a roofrack :D
 
I got my 352 into the back of my van on my own with a sack barrow and laid it on its' side with timber supports and plenty of foam packing. I don't think removing the table makes much difference tbh if there are 2 of you to lift and some mdf or battens to rest or slide it on.

It would go into the back of my estate car no problem.

They're built like a brick s***house and you're going to have to tune it up anyway so I wouldn't worry too much.
 
Yorkie,

For transporting, I think you would need at least, a large 'estate' such as a Volvo, though hiring a transit size, 'white van' might be best. The machine splits in two easily enough, as the bottom half is just a metal box, open on one side. The top half comes away complete with motor, and if you wanted to, you could just bolt it down and use it as is.

I wouldn't like to try splitting mine, as it's been in service for 30 years or so, and has never been dismantled, but once you 'crack' the nuts, it shouldn't be a problem. Having said all that, the 351 isn't all that heavy, and two persons can move one easily in the horizontal position. With a transit size van you could lie the saw on its back and strap it down. It would be fine.

The 351 is a sound, reliable machine, and I never needed any more than the 8" depth of cut. The guides and the fence are a bit primitive, but get some 'cool-blocks' fitted, and rig up a false table with two mitre-guides, at 90 degrees to each other, and you're golden.

Best of luck.
 
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