best way to fit a handle.

[woodfarmer]

I recently bought a gouge. it had the option to be with or without handle. I chose to have a handle. It is however not fitted and it seems extremely tight fit. I could hold the shank in a vice an knock the handle on with a wooden mallet or... I could use an hydraulic press. Thing is what are the chances of the handle splitting?

The Crown cryo gouge is there to show the size difference. Bit surprised at how small the new gouge is compared to the Crown which is my favourite tool. I tend to only use other tools id that Crown gouge isn't suitable

 

[Spindle]

Hi

If the handle has been drilled to the correct size the ferrule will stop it splitting. To insert the tool, wipe on a thin layer of epoxy resin, insert the tool into the handle as far as you can by hand then repeatedly drop the gouge vertically onto it's handle and onto a solid surface, (use a couple of layers of cloth or something to prevent marking the end of the handle). The gouge will settle into the handle, stop dropping it once the gouge is as far into the handle as you want it.

Regards Mick

 

[woodfarmer]

Hi

If the handle has been drilled to the correct size the ferrule will stop it splitting. To insert the tool, wipe on a thin layer of epoxy resin, insert the tool into the handle as far as you can by hand then repeatedly drop the gouge vertically onto it's handle and onto a solid surface, (use a couple of layers of cloth or something to prevent marking the end of the handle). The gouge will settle into the handle, stop dropping it once the gouge is as far into the handle as you want it.

Regards Mick

I think the fit is far too tight for that, can't get it past the starting taper by hand tapping on the floor ( carpet over stone).

It seemed too tight to me so that is why I asked.......

 

[Spindle]

Hi

You're going to have to drill it out then, and by the look of it the gouge has a tapered shank. Start by measuring the shank at it's maximum diameter and three equally spaced diameters along the taper. Now drill the handle starting with the smallest drill to the full length of the taper. the second smallest drill to 4/5 depth, third smallest to 3/5 depth and so on.

In the diagram above the tang is in blue, the drilled holes black.

Fit as above but be a bit more generous with the epoxy.

Regards Mick

 

[Paul Hannaby]

If the hole has been drilled to the correct diameter ( which will be a very tight fit to be effective ) all you need to do is to push the tang into the handle as far as it will go, then hold the handle in one hand and repeatedly hit the back end of the handle with a wooden mallet until the tang is sufficiently far enough in. The inertia of the blade will be enough to drive it into the handle.

There shouldn't be any need for glue if the fit is correct.

 

[Spindle]

There shouldn't be any need for glue if the fit is correct.

Hi Paul

This is very true, however in my experience the epoxy lubricates the joint and makes full engagement easier to achieve.

In the case of a step drilled socket it will fill any gaps remaining after gouge insertion and improve the gouge / handle interface.

Regards Mick

 

[woodfarmer]

I had a serious go at it today. Measured the hole and it only wants about 45mm of shank in it which surprised me, I would have thought about 100mm But then I do tend to over engineer things. I couldn't get it past the starting taper of about 10-15mm despite using a very heavy wooden mallet on the handle with the blade tip on a big block of wood. Some how I need to make the hole bigger. To be honest I think it would have been less trouble if I had simply made my own handle. I am really surprised at how much smaller this 1/2 gouge is compared to the Crown. Shouldn't really matter though as this one will start its short life being used just for finishing cuts. Can't see any easy way ATM of mounting it to enlarge the hole. Any suggestions?

 

[Dalboy]

Can't see any easy way ATM of mounting it to enlarge the hole. Any suggestions?

Yep send it to me to fit I will then test until there is no more usable blade left then I will return it :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Try getting a scrap piece of wood to test drill hole sizes then once happy with that drill the handle to that size. At least that way you will not stuff up a good handle

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Mount a suitably sized standard drill, (not a brad point), in the headstock. As you have probably removed all evidence of the handle centre, remove the tail centre, (I'm assuming you don't have a cone centre - if you do, use that). With the tail stock free to traverse the bed, turn on the lathe at a slow speed, place the end of the tool handle onto the tail centre location and slide the whole assembly onto the drill letting the drill self centre, drill to depth and retract from the drill.

Regards Mick