Best lathe for £1000

[Woodmonkey]

Hi Everyone
I'm thinking of upgrading my lathe to something beefier. I mostly turn bowls with a bit of spindle work. I'm tending towards the nova 1624, its at the top end of my budget, but I like the capacity, and like the fact that I can upgrade to electronic variable speed later on.
I really like the look of the axminster AT1628VS, but by the time you've added on the stand its more like a grand and a half. Have looked at the record cl4 but again with the stand and bowl turning attachment is over a grand, and something about the look of it turns me off (not very scientific i know).
Any other suggestions?
Cheers,
Rich

 

[andersonec]

If I was going to spend that sort of money then I would go to the retailer for demo's and spend some time.

Andy

 

[wizard]

Union Graduate second hand off ebay

 

[Woodmonkey]

Have looked at graduates, a friend of mine has one. Bit short for me, would have to raise it up a bit, and attachments maybe a little hard to find, and expensive? Also if I'm spending a big wedge of money would be nice to have after sales support if any problems and guarantee etc. plus my first two lathes have been second hand and just would be nice to own a new one!
Cheers,
Rich

 

[wizard]

All the new machines i have bought i have been glad to see the back of

 

[Woodmonkey]

Also forgot to say my workshop is up some steep steps, I think it would be a struggle to get a graduate up there, whereas a more modern lathe can be broken down into more manageable pieces

 

[woodfarmer]

If you can go to a 1628VS then it would be simple to build your own stand out of oak railway sleepers. Make simple angled halving type joints and bolt it together using the 1 metre lengths of threaded you can buy rod cut to size. When you do this make the top of the stand with two rails to run under the lathe bed so the centre of the rails are where the lathes bolt holes are. BUT make the rails two feet longer than the bed. You will then be able to make an attachment easily to do very large out board turning for nearly free thus saving the cost of the bed extension £160.

What you want is lots of weight, so at a push bolt it to the earth which weighs quite a lot and will absorb a fair bit of vibration.

If you do get one, be aware that the black face plate that comes with it is secured with TWO allen screws for reverse working. you need to remove them both or you will damage the threads of the spindle as as happened many times as there is no mention of them or an allen key to undo them.

 

[renderer01]

I don't know how scientific this process can be here, its about what you need to suit what you do and wish to do in the future. I notice that most people expand their work to encompass the capability of the machine like taking the limiter off a racing car.
I have had records and recently been and looked at them with a view to upgrading, I did not have the budget for the dvr but could afford the 1624 however when I looked at it and felt it and stood in front of it in reality I didn't feel I was going to really upgrade if I bought it (I had a CL3~)so I came here and spoke to many people and asked many questions waited a little longer and bought the Axminster AT 1628VS.
I know its considerably more expensive but its superb value and I like it a lot, without the legs on a home made stand the cost is £200 more or thereabouts but you get VS and that massive heft plus a full 2hp and loads of torque with the ability to upgrade to the cast legs at a later stage.
At the end of the day I didn't want to be disappointed a couple months down the line and feel I made the best choice but its a judgement call and what suits one doesn't suit all.
Again not sure i'm helping or hindering but i'm definitely trying!!

Good luck and all best.
Rend.

 

[chipmunk]

I know that Novas have their fans and the idea of adding variable speed afterwards sounds attractive but that split bed design, lightweight stand, poor toolrest shape and fiddly tailstock would put me off. I also dislike the rotating headstock idea as you have to realign things afterwards if you want head and tailstocks to line up. Having said that though, compared to a CL4 it's at least almost a 21st century lathe - 1MT, a poor tailstock handwheel, and the need to keep the headstock bearing oiled all would give me second thoughts - not to mention those bed bars that need rotating to prevent them from sagging!

The problem with £1000 is that it's just not quite enough money - it's in the gap between the very good smaller lathes like the Axminster 1416 or Jet 1221 with electronic variable speed and the start of the better 16" lathes with EVS.

Like others have said I'd hold out until you can afford the Axminster 1628. I think it'll work out cheaper and certainly be more flexible than the Nova since you can also buy the lower bed extension, legs and outboard attachment.

Some woodturning clubs can obtain a worthwhile discount from Axminster and it may be worth exploring this route.
HTH
Jon

 

[Woodmonkey]

Thanks guys, food for thought. You've hit the nail on the head I think Jon, I think deep down inside I know its the axi 1628, just need to start selling a bit more stuff to be able to justify it to the misses! Woodfarmer - Railway sleeper stand a good idea - would be interested to see how to construct the outboard turning attachment, is that something you have done?
Rich

 

[woodfarmer]

Thanks guys, food for thought. You've hit the nail on the head I think Jon, I think deep down inside I know its the axi 1628, just need to start selling a bit more stuff to be able to justify it to the misses! Woodfarmer - Railway sleeper stand a good idea - would be interested to see how to construct the outboard turning attachment, is that something you have done?
Rich

Sadly no, I wussed out and bought one

Basically construct an A frame for each end and sort of halving joint the rails at an angle to the A frames so they are vertical. note the following.
The rails must be as true ie flat and paralleled as you can make them. but... if they end up a bit off you can pad under the lathe where the bolts pass. The important thing is to ensure the bolts pass as near through the middle of the rails and vertically so the bolts will have an easy entry into the lathe bed. This means the rails sit on the A frames wherever it might be so the centreline of the rails is under the lathe beds bolt holes.
secondly make the rails longer than the lathe at both ends so if you have a problem drilling the bolt holes for the lathe you have a second chance at the other end.
ensure the lathe bolts are inside of the A frames at either end so there wont be a conflict when you bolt the A frames to the rails (or vice versa)
Run a knee from the A frame cross member (which hopefully has a bit of an angled halving joint) up into the gap between the rails. Ideally there should be a bit of tenon at the join with the rails.
to bolt together counter sink each hole with a big spade drill bit just bid enough to take a flat washer. then finish the holes with a bit with 2-3 mm clearance for the bolt. Note when I say bolt I would use threaded rod.
Grease all bolts well before final assembly ( I would use cascamite on all wood to wood joints) also put plenty of grease under the washers. the grease will protect the steel from acids in the wood.

Once all is assembled and set for a few days cut off the excess length of rails at the headstock end. The excess length at the tailstock end could be used for extra size turning if you make up a tool rest from the rails.

you should end up with a pair of A frames supporting two rails. inboard of the A frames is through bolted the lathe. The tailstock end of the rails sticking out by about 20 "

If this is unclear I will try to make diagrams.

 

[SteveF]

I would like to see a rough diagram

i will be starting a stand in couple of weeks time
I have 8" square sleepers to work with

Steve

 

[Woodmonkey]

Yes I'd be interested too

 

[ss03947]

Also forgot to say my workshop is up some steep steps, I think it would be a struggle to get a graduate up there, whereas a more modern lathe can be broken down into more manageable pieces

I'm sure a Graduate can be aswell.

SS.

 

[chipmunk]

The Axminster AWVSL-1200 outboard turning attachment is well worth considering as a cheaper alternative to the one for the 1628.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/outboard-turning-attachment-for-awvswl1200

I successfully added one to my Jet 1642, bolting it to the cast iron leg, and I don't see why you couldn't do the same to a set of wooden legs (3 x M10 holes). It isn't bomb-proof and does have some flex in it, particularly the extension arm between the banjo and toolpost, but for £50 and occasional use it's great value IMHO.

The only thing is that it is a 25mm toolpost diameter rather than 1" but you can drill out the vertical toolpost extension on the woodlathe quite easily if you have a 1" drill.

HTH
Jon

 

[Woodmonkey]

maybe I'll just bolt one of those to the sh1tty lathe I've got now and save myself a grand!

 

[woodfarmer]

It will now be obvious I am no artist. but here goes.
This is best described as "chainsaw carpentry" the 8x8 wood if possible have split down the middle to make 8x4's. It may be necessary to either pack or thin where the knees slide between the two rails, they must be a close fit.

Grease well the steel and under the washers to protect the metal, as the wood dries so it will shrink so from time to time check tightness of all bolts and rods, the real critical bit are the holes for the lathe to rail fittings as those are threaded into the lathe castings and have to be really straight, tack a bit of wood near where you are drilling for a guide. Once the blade is in the hole, keep the drill shaft central to the hole. To counter sink on an angle, start the point of the flat bit vertical to the woods surface, soon as the point is in swing the drill to get the correct angle

 

[woodfarmer]

sorry, somehow sent same page twice...