Best Anti Rust Product

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paulkane1

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Could someone kindly guide me as to what Product is generally accepted to be the best to prevent rust on Tablesaws ,Bandsaws, etc.I have a lot of moisture in my workshop,so unless I take good preventive measures ,with good products ,it would not be long until layers of rust appear on my machinery.So I want to know what is the best method of Preventing and Removing rust buildup.

Yours Zkindly Paul
 
Various methods are frequently reported here. One successful one is a good thorough clean with a solvent like rust remover, petrol, diesel, meths, white spirit and pan scourer or wire wool. Then rag dry with clean cloth and apply a paste wax to coat the cast iron and leave it slick for the wood to slide on
 
When I looked some years back at this I ended up using Boeshield T9. A heavy coat of this can leave a tacky finish, so I then use renaissance wax on top. Whether that's the best I couldn't say -and certainly not the cheapest I'm sure- but the surfaces I've used this method on have not rusted at all in my shed.
 
That Boeshield product has been reported many times on UKW as very good...it is however very expensive and if your cup of tea then absolutely fine. However, the cheaper methods using solvents and cheap paste wax from Tesco have been just as effective for a fraction the cost. There was a thread to that effect only about a month ago as I recall...I'll have dig around see if I cant find it.
 
Random Orbital Bob":2vfxkw4v said:
That Boeshield product has been reported many times on UKW as very good...it is however very expensive and if your cup of tea then absolutely fine. However, the cheaper methods using solvents and cheap paste wax from Tesco have been just as effective for a fraction the cost. There was a thread to that effect only about a month ago as I recall...I'll have dig around see if I cant find it.

Thanks for your help. If you can come across that link ,could you post it for me.What is the actual name of the Paste Wax in Tescos? I know there is cheaper ways that you can do things in your workshop.without having to buy all the dear stuff.

Yours Kindly Paul
 
Inoffthered":2p5mzr0b said:
This doesn't really answer your question but have you thought about running a dehumidifier in your workshop to remove excess moisture in the air?

I have thought about running a dehumidifer, but i have read some links on different forums that dehumidefiers don't really work that well, What make of a dehumidifier would you recommend?. My workshop is about 4 mtrs square, and 10 feet high,, if anyone on this forum has had similar problems with moisture and they sorted there problem out ,i would be glad to hear from them.

Yours Kindly Paul
 
I have Widetech dehumidifier which I originally bought for use on a 32' boat over winter. It has a water tank which can be emptied and a cut off that switched the machine off if the tank is full. it also has the option of attaching a tube to the unit which then bypasses the tank (lead into a sink) and so the unit can be left running without having to empty the tank.

I have always been impressed by the efficiency of the unit and would always find the interior of the boat fresh and dry after being shut up for a few months. I suppose a dehumidifier's efficiency will depend on the conditions of your workshop and what is causing the damp. If the damp is caused by water ingress from a leaking roof for example then a dehumidifier may not make much difference. If the damp is caused by lack of heat, poor airflow and little insulation then a dehumidifier may help.
 
Random Orbital Bob":35kz9j8h said:
That Boeshield product has been reported many times on UKW as very good...it is however very expensive and if your cup of tea then absolutely fine. However, the cheaper methods using solvents and cheap paste wax from Tesco have been just as effective for a fraction the cost. There was a thread to that effect only about a month ago as I recall...I'll have dig around see if I cant find it.


+1 for boeshield - it's occasionally on offer at rutlands - 2 cans for £24 - seems like a lot of money but a little goes a long way and my planer / thicknesser beds are still pristine after almost a full winter just sat in a trolley box (that isn't air tight) made for it. I was going to use a heating pad in there but looks as though it's not needed.
 
paulkane1":1oy52hh7 said:
Random Orbital Bob":1oy52hh7 said:
That Boeshield product has been reported many times on UKW as very good...it is however very expensive and if your cup of tea then absolutely fine. However, the cheaper methods using solvents and cheap paste wax from Tesco have been just as effective for a fraction the cost. There was a thread to that effect only about a month ago as I recall...I'll have dig around see if I cant find it.

Thanks for your help. If you can come across that link ,could you post it for me.What is the actual name of the Paste Wax in Tescos? I know there is cheaper ways that you can do things in your workshop.without having to buy all the dear stuff.

Yours Kindly Paul

Well that required a fairly deep dive but I did eventually locate it using the forums..er...ahem..."excellent" search facility and here it is.

Make sure you go to the last page after the rather un called for scathing attack on marketing :) That pictures the lovely Tesco lavender paste wax. It's entirely mortgage free!
 
I don't suffer from rust too much but as a precaution I treat my tools and machines with Liberon Lubricating Wax.

John
 
paulkane1":3fd54kly said:
I have thought about running a dehumidifer, but i have read some links on different forums that dehumidefiers don't really work that well, What make of a dehumidifier would you recommend?

Dehumidifiers are available using two different techniques for drying. Condensation driers draw air over a chilled coil, which lowers the temperature of the air and hence the dew point. When the air is below the saturation temperature for the absolute humidity, water condenses on the coil. The air, having lost some moisture, is then reheated over the condenser coil of the refrigeration unit. Back at its original temperature, its relative humidity is lower. These devices are cheap and work well when the ambient temperature is warm, but at cool temperatures they don't work very well. I would avoid this type for your application - these are the type of units that have a bad name for themselves.

What you want is an adsorption/dessicant drier. These have a water-absorbing material in them (the dessicant), fitted to a slowly rotating wheel. The air is drawn through part of the dessicant wheel, where moisture is absorbed. As the dessicant wheel turns, it enters a drying section where the moisture is removed by heating and drawn off to a tank or a discharge pipe. The dessicant is then recharged and can adsorb more water when it re-enters the air flow. These types of driers work well at lower temperatures because the adsorption process is much less affected by low temperatures than the condensing process. You can pick up dessicant driers for around the £150-200 mark.
 
The best anti corrosion fluid by far is ACF50 http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm

I use this on my bike, a newish (2013) BMW RT1200, ride all year round weather permitting and the bike looks Cumquats through winter but comes up lovely after a right proper wash in the Spring.
Trick is to apply it but only rinse the bike after a ride, the re apply any areas that look like they may new a fresh coat, but generally there is still a think film still there.
Believe me it works.
 
busy builder":1wqmhf7l said:
The best anti corrosion fluid by far is ACF50 http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm

I use this on my bike, a newish (2013) BMW RT1200, ride all year round weather permitting and the bike looks Cumquats through winter but comes up lovely after a right proper wash in the Spring.
Trick is to apply it but only rinse the bike after a ride, the re apply any areas that look like they may new a fresh coat, but generally there is still a think film still there.
Believe me it works.

I don't understand this, I wrote my bike looks Cumquats through winter.................where does Cumquats come from ??
 
I managed to get a large tub of waxoyl, that's the stuff that used to be used to underseal car bodies. It's certainly effective, a bit messy to use though.



Beware of those who say they're right behind you, they're the ones most likely to stab you in the back!.

David Brent; The Office.
 
I was reading an article on the subject or rust prevention in a U.S. magazine a couple of months ago. After comparison testing against severalmother well known and expensive treatments the overall winner was, believe it or not, plain old WD40.

You pays your money you make your choice.
 
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