beading help please

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TheTiddles

Established Member
Joined
14 Oct 2007
Messages
3,024
Reaction score
842
Location
Wiltshire
I need to add a bullnose onto some oak edging for some MDF panels. I've tried using a multi-plane with the appropriate sized blade but I think I'm getting rather a lot of tearing from the cutter as it seems to go straight for full depth. The beading is about 3mm wide and 15mm deep. I'll need 20-30' of it so I need to be able to crack on with it quickly. I've already seen I need a sort of strip clamp to stop the plane from eating right through the piece as there's no material either side of the round to provide a stop. Is this the best way to approach this other than buy a specific router cutter for the job, which would be quick but I'd rather keep the cash at the moment. Any suggestions?

Aidan
 
Make a scratch stock from a bit of scrap hardwood and a bit of broken hacksaw blade.
 
If I understand this bead correctly- the radius is just under 11mm
Looking at wealden, 10mm router cutters are the nearest with 13mm the next size up.

This would be my choice to produce this bead. I have a number of round over cutters and can check tomorrow what I have if you want to borrow one? Mine are possibly imperial 3/8" and 1/2" at a guess.

Bob
 
9fingers":3t1c4lqk said:
If I understand this bead correctly- the radius is just under 11mm
Looking at wealden, 10mm router cutters are the nearest with 13mm the next size up.

This would be my choice to produce this bead. I have a number of round over cutters and can check tomorrow what I have if you want to borrow one? Mine are possibly imperial 3/8" and 1/2" at a guess.

Bob

Thanks Bob, it's the 3mm diameter bead that I need to create, almost a hockey-stick molding but without the rabbet. The sheet material arrives tomorrow so I'd better get on with it!

Aidan
 
TheTiddles":10tl9cje said:
I've tried using a multi-plane with the appropriate sized blade but I think I'm getting rather a lot of tearing from the cutter as it seems to go straight for full depth..............I've already seen I need a sort of strip clamp to stop the plane from eating right through the piece as there's no material either side of the round to provide a stop.

Hi Aidan,

It's not entirely clear but it sounds as though you are attempting to plane this on wood which is only 3mm wide and the skates of the plane have nothing on which to take a bearing - is that correct? If so, it would be better to use a wider piece, plane the bead and then cut/plane the finished piece to the correct width.

If you don't have any wider material, then you could make up a planing board - cut a 3mm groove in a wide piece of wood in which to sit the piece while you plane it.

Beading cutters in a multi-plane need to be very sharp. I hone the curved part of mine on MDF wheels in a hand drill. Just put some honing paste on the wheel and do it free-hand like this

Honing1.jpg


or if you have a Tormek with the small leather honing wheels you could use that. Hone the flat part of the bevel normally.

Or, as already suggested, a scratch stock would do the job.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
As Paul says, for the plane it's better to form the bead first then cut it off. If you're working already thin strips, then I think I'd knock off the corners with a plane and finish the desired profile with a scratchstock, as suggested.
 
Ok, thanks everyone. I've tried a half-pineappled attempt at making a strip holder as the skates do nothing but I shall try a three-pronged attack.

1 - make a scratch stock this weekend using the plane cutter
2 - go get some honing compound from axminster
3 - check to see if a 4mm cutter would do it!

thanks

aidan
 
Back
Top