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Well, the manual states that you can fit a 5/8" wide on this saw... Truth is, while it will fit, the frame isn't strong enough to tension such a wide blade correctly (unless you buy a thin-kerf blade...).

You don't need to go any wider than ½" though; you'll still be able to rip timber and cut tenons and the like with accuracy. If you're looking to do a lot of ripping work then I reckon a ½"x4tpi blade would be a good bet. 3tpi would be even better if you plan on doing a lot of deep-ripping (over 3" thick).

3/8" wide blades are better for curve cutting with ¼" then required for curves with a tighter radius. You really are better off using a separate blade to your ripping blade for cutting curves as the set of the teeth will gradually become uneven and would cause the blade to want to 'pull away' from a straight line. 6tpi is good for general work and should leave a decent finish with a steady feed-rate. Again, the thicker the timber, the less teeth you need.

I'm sure that when you contact any saw doctor they would be able to advise you on the best blades to suit your requirements anyway.

To start with, I think you could use something like the combination of a ½"x4tpi and 3/8"x6tpi blade anyway. :)
 
OPJ":12ls8gmr said:
Alie, I have the same saw (01486) and order my blades to be cut to 2235mm long. In the manual, they advise 2240mm but, by having them 5mm shorter, you don't have to crank the tension up as much and save wear on the thread and tensioning mechanism. :wink:
.....

Ollie, while I can see the logic, my limited engineering knowledge suggests otherwise. Surely the strain on the tension mechanism is going to be the same with both lengths of blade ? You'll apply tension until the blade is tensioned correctly...just that with the shorter blade, you don't have to turn the tension handle as many times.

Or did the wink imply that? :wink:
 
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