Are these jaws a good idea ?

[Grahamshed]

I need to be able to reverse mount a bowl to clean up the base and although it is something I will probably have to do quite often I don't know if I want to spend £170 or more on a set of cole/button jaws.
Axminster do this
http://www.axminster.co.uk/150mm-wood-jaw-plates
with which I could make my own simple or adjustable version.
Any thoughts ?

 

[paulm]

Those would do fine Graham to make your own, or just knock up a simple thick ply or mdf large disc, maybe double thickness to reduce flex but probably not necessary, and screw and glue a spigot on the back to hold it in your existing chuck jaws. Bring the tailstock up and centre the point of the tailstock revolving centre in the waste of the bowl foot you are going to remove and then use the tailstock to press the bowl against the disc to hold it in place. Use reasonable but not excessive tailstock pressure, low speed and gentle cuts and it works very well for me, never had a bowl come off or move on me yet. Obviously wear the usual protection though just in case.

There's a few threads around with some other variations around the topic too.

Cheers, Paul

 

[gregmcateer]

I haven't tried the wooden ones - I had meant to get round to it, (if you'll excuse the pun), but haven't been confident enough in my accuracy of 'step-creating'.

I have a secondhand set of cole jaws, but not been too successful - seem to be slightly off centre when I try.

Though you could try making a vacuum check using the shop vac - like Woodmonkey (and now I), have;

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/topic79704.html

I like Paulm's idea above, too. Though this would limit you to swing over the bed - depends on your lathe size vs platter / bowl size.

Greg

 

[nev]

Another no cost option, DIY and not requiring precision engineering - the donut chuck. Simple ply base mounted to a faceplate, pencilled rings for alignment help, three or so rows of drilled holes for the bolts and a selection of rings or donuts, job done.
edit: and arguably less likely to launch the bowl in the event of a senior moment.

https://www.google.com/search?q=donut+c ... d=0CB0QsAQ

 

[Grahamshed]

I need something fairly quickly which would rule out the vacuum chuck, for now at least. May give it a try later

I may well get the axe wooden plate jaws ( actually metal I assume ) but also like......

Another no cost option, DIY and not requiring precision engineering - the donut chuck. Simple ply base mounted to a faceplate, pencilled rings for alignment help, three or so rows of drilled holes for the bolts and a selection of rings or donuts, job done.
edit: and arguably less likely to launch the bowl in the event of a senior moment.

(homer) Mmmm. Donuts
I haven't come across this before Nev, looks like a good idea and removes the problem of inward curving lips being difficult to hold. I can imagine centring the bowl might be a bit hit and miss......I will definitely give this a try.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Yes - go for them.

Make a set of 'wood' jaws to fit and you'll probably never feel the need to buy a set of cole jaws. You can use 'T' nuts and there are plenty of suppliers of 'rubber' stops on the internet which allow you to mimic cole jaws.

£170 :shock: :shock: - Cole jaws are getting seriously overpriced :shock:

Regards Mick

 

[paulm]

The donut method is perfectly good too but a bit slow and faffing around fiddling with bits and pieces. The disc method works great, very quick and simple and you're done in a couple of minutes

If you have deep vases or bowls with an irregular rim then make a longish cylinder to mount in your existing chuck jaws and fasten a layer or two of router mat on the end of it, this sits inside the bowl on the base and then centre and support it with the tailstock as before, simple, quick and effective again.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I recently bought the cole jaws for the SN2 (they were £74) and they are absolutely fabulous for the no hassle option. Only snag...91/2" bowl is the max they will do. But for convenience, concentricity and safety they are very good indeed. I did wince at the price mind and there's no way I would spend over a £100 on them.

I have tried Paul's mdf disc method with some success but I just cannot get the bowl to remain central no matter how hard I try. Plus, you end up with a nub that needs removing where the tailstock meets because of course the bowl isn't actually gripped by the disc. So cole jaws are a more complete solution....but you pay for it, no question.

 

[Spindle]

Only snag...91/2" bowl is the max they will do

Unless you can grip the bowl on the inside :wink: :wink:

Regards Mick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

that's a good point Mick....and I found that out the practical way when I came to grip a bowl where I had swept the curve past the vertical. Of course the rubber tyres wouldn't hold it so I popped them inside and it worked a charm

 

[Grahamshed]

The £170 button jaws from Axi are 16 inch ( 400mm) but thats a lot for what they appear to be.

 

[paulm]

I have tried Paul's mdf disc method with some success but I just cannot get the bowl to remain central no matter how hard I try. Plus, you end up with a nub that needs removing where the tailstock meets because of course the bowl isn't actually gripped by the disc.

That's odd Rob, it can't not be central if you've marked the centre when turning the spigot initially and then use the tailstock centre in that mark ?

You do end up with a small bit left to remove after, I use a sanding pad and arbour either mounted in the chuck or in a cordless drill and it disappears in about thirty seconds !

I do have a very good set of vicmarc cole jaws mounted permanently on a dedicated chuck but I seldom use them due to the inevitable fiddling around relocating the rubber bits which of course are inevitably never set at the diameter you need ! Knowing what I do now I would never spend on a set, they're just too expensive and it's just so much easier and quicker with the disc method, but everybody is different I guess !

Cheers, Paul

 

[procell]

Not tried it myself yet but had a thought. For centering the workpiece why not measure the diameter of the piece then cut a small channel in a scrap disc mounted in a chuck. The lip of the piece can then locate into the channel and will be centered. It can then be held in place with the tail stock. This will allow removal of the majority of the base just leaving a small bit to be removed by hand.

 

[bobham]

Those Axminster jaws appear to be similar to the Oneway "Flat Jaws" that I have that allow making custom shaped adjustable "faceplates". I do find it odd that the holes for attaching the wood appear to be countersunk on the same side of the jaws that the holes for mounting it on the chuck are counterbored? The Oneway jaws have the countersinks on opposite faces of the jaws, so that the screws going in to the wood are driven from the back side of the chuck. Are these jaws intended to have the wood facings installed on the front face or the back?

Take care
Bob

 

[Dalboy]

Those Axminster jaws appear to be similar to the Oneway "Flat Jaws" that I have that allow making custom shaped adjustable "faceplates". I do find it odd that the holes for attaching the wood appear to be countersunk on the same side of the jaws that the holes for mounting it on the chuck are counterbored? The Oneway jaws have the countersinks on opposite faces of the jaws, so that the screws going in to the wood are driven from the back side of the chuck. Are these jaws intended to have the wood facings installed on the front face or the back?

Take care
Bob

Bob looking at the pictures in the link I get the impression that they are counter sunk on both sides, at first glance it does appear strange. Unless the counter sink on this side is for those amongst us just screw a piece straight on without cleaning up the little swarf that raises up when you screw into the wood therefore allowing the wood to sit flush

 

[Spindle]

Hi

A couple of points to bear in mind if you are considering going for the larger Cole jaws - I have both the 12" and 16" versions.

I bought the 16" set initially and fitted them to a Nova chuck because I wanted the capacity however it soon became apparent that:

The Nova chuck key fouled the back of the jaws resulting in the adjusting process being extremely tedious, (about an eighth of a turn per insertion) - this issue was kindly addressed by Robert Sorby who supplied me with an extended key free of charge. Depending on what chuck you have you will probably have to find a similar solution, extended key or ball end allen key for instance. This issue may also be the case for the 12" jaws.

I hadn't considered clearance over the bed, my lathe has a 6" clearance, the 16" set meant that I had to swivel the headstock and fit the bowl turning rest every time I used them. I've now bought the 12" set to negate this.

Regards Mick

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I have tried Paul's mdf disc method with some success but I just cannot get the bowl to remain central no matter how hard I try. Plus, you end up with a nub that needs removing where the tailstock meets because of course the bowl isn't actually gripped by the disc.

That's odd Rob, it can't not be central if you've marked the centre when turning the spigot initially and then use the tailstock centre in that mark ?

You do end up with a small bit left to remove after, I use a sanding pad and arbour either mounted in the chuck or in a cordless drill and it disappears in about thirty seconds !

I do have a very good set of vicmarc cole jaws mounted permanently on a dedicated chuck but I seldom use them due to the inevitable fiddling around relocating the rubber bits which of course are inevitably never set at the diameter you need ! Knowing what I do now I would never spend on a set, they're just too expensive and it's just so much easier and quicker with the disc method, but everybody is different I guess !

Cheers, Paul

I'm sure I'm doing something wrong Paul because I always get a bit of a wobble going. I've drawn tight concentric circles on the mdf etc to try and make it more accurate. One thing, my lathe has the tailstock point out of alignment (vertically) by about a mm and that might be why although it doesn't have a big effect on most things. I need to get round to shimming whichever assembly is shy. Not sure if I have relocated the tailstock in a central dimple in the spigot to align it...been a while since I did it now and I've forgotten but I'll give that a try. I know what you mean about the fiddle with the rubber feet never being at the correct diameter

 

[Woodmonkey]

Vacuum chuck is certainly the way forward, I just bring the tailstock up and initially use the vacuum chuck as a jam chuck, then engage the vac, slide the tailstock away and finish off the nub. A lot easier to make than you would think too.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Vacuum chuck is certainly the way forward, I just bring the tailstock up and initially use the vacuum chuck as a jam chuck, then engage the vac, slide the tailstock away and finish off the nub. A lot easier to make than you would think too.

Cant be done on the CL4 unfortunately.

 

[Dalboy]

Vacuum chuck is certainly the way forward, I just bring the tailstock up and initially use the vacuum chuck as a jam chuck, then engage the vac, slide the tailstock away and finish off the nub. A lot easier to make than you would think too.

Cant be done on the CL4 unfortunately.

It can be done with a special adaptor that fits between the chuck and headstock shaft. If I can find one I will link to it