Applying features with router and indexer.

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just happened on this, lovely work. this winter hope to get my die grinder going on something like these great examples. not sure ill be showing them for a while though. im not getting bored, thx for the great pics,once again great work, i prefer 3
also for finishing, i prefer lacquer, light coats and it builds quick and really pops the color,the potpourri in the autumn challenge was just lightly scuffed between coats with 320, and i mean lightly.
 
FAO Woodpig
Picture of my homemade tools as promised. The hollowing tools are WIP. These tools have just accumulated on an as-needed basis.
I'm not really interested in tools so I have not researched their design. I just make what works for me. I hesitate to post this picture
as I suspect there will be hoots of derision from the aficionados. I hardly ever use gouges any more as I sharpen so frequently and all the fussin with jigs
upsets my work flow. Nearly all my tools can be sharpened quickly and accurately freehand. I rarely turn anything over 200mm dia. but I have full size
tools if needed. Please pm me if any further info needed.

FAO The Forum
Please don't raise any tool issue here. It is inappropriate for this thread.

FAO Coley
Yes I love most aspects of wood working but I daren't start any other threads. I'm no cabinet maker but I enjoy making simple furniture, decorative boxes and I've made a few speakers over the years. Renovating the house has been interesting and building a decent workshop. I spent my working life designing and now I can do it for pleasure.
Thanks for your generous comments.

FAO Dennisk
Good luck with your routing project. I hope you enjoy the experience as much as I have. Keep us informed.
Thanks for posting

Bob
 

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bobajobob":19ag7mt9 said:
FAO Coley
Yes I love most aspects of wood working but I daren't start any other threads. I'm no cabinet maker but I enjoy making simple furniture, decorative boxes and I've made a few speakers over the years. Renovating the house has been interesting and building a decent workshop. I spent my working life designing and now I can do it for pleasure.
Please *do* start other threads; it's always interesting to see and learn from other projects. I've posted a variety of things from long reach clamps to shoe racks to jigs to speakers to tool restoration; I wouldn't claim to be any sort of expert on any, but on pretty much every one I've had good feedback, and I've learned a few things from others in the discussion.
 
Thanks for the pictures. No derision of any kind from me. Just because I do something one way doesn't make other methods wrong. If I'm not open to other ways of getting something accomplished there is something wrong with me. Blank em if they don't like it. ;)

Pete
 
Thanks for the picture Bob. The tools look pretty good to me. I've got some HSS so I'll have to make some detailers like yours.
 
Rework?
 

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bobajobob":2bgso9le said:
I love how the shape on the inside flows from the one type of wood to the other.

As a novice/new turner; I assume you glue up the blank, turn the overall shape, and then you're using your jig to cut (in this case) the slots on the outside? Do you then do a light cut to smooth the outside again, or is the detail cutting with your jig the last part of the process?
 
Pete
Thought I was back at work reading that. Thanks for your approval.

Sploo
I turn both parts separately to near finished form. A shallow tenon centres them. Cut the grooves in the base without the impediment of the rim part.
Glue and finish turn. The tricky part is cutting across the ends of the 72 webs. The fibres are very vulnerable. Very light touch
needed with a very sharp chisel. I had little time today so rushed it a bit. Would have liked a wider rim but that olive was all I had. Was going to re-hash it later
but its quite an interesting format. The wife likes it so it might survive. Thanks for the reply.
 
Nor me Phil.
Rummaging through my router bits I found a thin three wing affair I had to try. Would only cut straight grooves hence this result.
Had a miserable afternoon trying to salvage something worthwhile out of it. You probably know the feeling when your struggling with an ever diminishing
piece of s..t that was once a coveted specimen you were saving for something special. Its now a bit too small for my g.daughter's dolls house.
I'm going to clean up, kick the lathe and watch some telly.

ATB Bob
 
As a wannabe wood turner who has yet to turn his first piece of anything (new workshop not yet got electrickery) I am in awe of the skill shown here to produce these marvellous sculptures, and will most definitely aspire to try router assisted work at some point.
My lathe has 24 indexing points already but I get the impression that twice that number would be much better. I am no metalworker but I guess an indexing jig could be made from precisely drilled wood if necessary?
Loving this thread, keep it going please.
 
WP

I've accepted that routed surfaces cannot be polished to the standard of the turned ones. In a way its beneficial to have a textural quality in the grooves.
It could look glitzy with too many highlights otherwise with a glazed look. So I'm sticking with Danish oil and/or wax for now. Thinning the oil with white spirit does help (Phil)
and seems to quicken the drying.
Wish you had given your opinion on the last piece a bit earlier. It just didn't seem to work for me and now I've massacred it . Got some beautiful shavings though.
It's a shame because the wood was lovely and I've got very little left. Another lessen learned the hard way.

ATB Bob
 
I've got a spin indexer for my milling machine and after seeing your latest work Bob I'm wondering how I can mount a wood chuck on it! :D
 
Bob - a thought - you might find one of the Finishing Oils a bit easier than Danish. F.O. is not recommended for exterior and is I suspect a lighter formulation, the resins being the difference. I've been using Chestnut F.O. and I find it good.
 
Tung takes an age to dry. I tried to find the difference from some manufactures, Terry Smart from Chestnut was helpful bit they don't make Danish. The answer I got from Liberon was that the resins differ - which is why I made the assumption that F.O. is lighter as presumably the weather proof one would be heavier/thicker. There is no standard recipe for D.O. (or F.O.) - http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/bestwood-danish-oil-5-litres/ e.g. is over 50% tung. I use this and Chestnut F.O.
 
WP. Just googled spin indexer to find out what it was. It has probably got a collet chuck then, though some are shown with 3-jaw chucks. Not much of a challenge for you to make an adapter for your ww chuck. Glue, jam, screw chucks etc would be easy. Nice little device. Very similar in principle to my toy indexer.

Phil. Thanks for the finishing update. Got an order building for some stuff, will try the Chestnut FO.

BTW. I dug out of the bin the remnant of that last bowl. I felt so ashamed of messing it up that I had a fresh attempt to salvage something.
A couple of pics attached. Lessen - Never give up while there is still wood projecting from the chuck.

Bob
 

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