Adjusting Tandem Blumotion drawer slides

[DavidE]

Hi there,

Sorry if this is a daft question - I just wanted a quick sanity check of my understanding of adjusting the Tandem slides... The manual I downloaded is helpful, however, I did find a few things ambiguous and clarified my understanding by fiddling (as with most things).

Having fiddled around a bit I've come to the conclusion there are two adjustments. -

The front adjustment - I thought this initially did the position of the drawer front in the plane looking into the drawer. I soon realised this adjusted the height of the drawer front.

The back adjustment varies the tilt of the drawer - I'd picked this up from the manual and it is pretty clear when you start moving them what they do.

I can't find anything that will adjust:

1) The fit of the drawer at the front in terms of fitting flush to the surrounding edges?

2) Or the lateral position of the drawer to centralise it?

To adjust the above I figure I have to move the slide where it is fastened to the side? The later I guess could be adjusted with a bit of packing, or I think I might be able to sort that by moving the side, as the thing I am trying to adjust is a table.

Please let me know if this isn't clear I will add a diagram. I’m only trying to adjust in both directions by about 1mm as it is just slightly out on one side – the other side is spot on.

Thanks
David

 

[jasonB]

I'm assuming you are using tandem runners for wooden draws not the netal sides.

There is no in-out adjustment (least not that I have found) make sure that the slides are equally set back from the sides and also that the tab at the back of the runner is pushed fully into the hole as this can make one side stick out.

Also ensure that your draw box is totally square by checking the diagonals. It also needs to be a good fit width wise over the runners so the box cannot move sideways

Sideways adjustment is really only possible by adjusting how the draw front is fixed to the box, blum make a small fitting for this that allows some adjustment but you should be able to do it with slightly oversize holes for the screws holding the front on.

When adjusting its worth putting some weight into the draws, if you set them up empty they will settle once full and need doing again.

Jason

 

[DavidE]

Hi Jason,

Thanks for your reply. you're right I am using the runners on a wooden drawer.

l've checked most of what you have mentioned already - I'll go over it again though and see how it looks. One thing I didn't check was the position into the holes at the back.

You make a good point about the weight. I had noticed that. I've had a Yellow pages in whilst adjusting!

I'll keep this updated as I'll probably post some photos in the Projects section when it is done. I'm glad I wasn't missing any adjustments that are built in as I thought I might be going daft.

Thanks, David

 

[DavidE]

I thought I'd update this post with how I got on...

Jason made a very good point about the setup needing to be square I found after looking underneath and measuring the drawer was slightly out and it was conspiring with the side which also slightly tapered. This explained why the front was 1mm out between each side to make a flush fit. To get over this I let one runner float at the side and moved it to get it square. I then made a packer out of some metal and placed it behind the drawer runner mount at the back. With this in place the alignment is now perfect.

Sorry for the naff picture - I missed the daylight and only took a quick grab shot.

Thanks again Jason. (I also note a post I made a while back about purchasing these runners someone else remarked on the squareness problem and a drawer they were fitting - one to remember)

Cheers
David

 

[BradNaylor]

Sideways adjustment is really only possible by adjusting how the draw front is fixed to the box, blum make a small fitting for this that allows some adjustment but you should be able to do it with slightly oversize holes for the screws holding the front on.
Jason

My preferred method is to drill oversized holes for the handle bolts through the drawer front and drawer box. Then fix the front to the box using the M4 handle bolts left slightly loose. Only tighten then when the position of the front is perfect. Then add a few screws from inside the drawer to secure.

I've just noticed though, that David's drawer doesn't have a handle!

Cheers
Dan