A bit stuck, and taking the edge off

[Sir Percy]

I drilled pilot holes in boards with a hand drill before glueing-up with PVA, and some glue squirted up one the holes.
I noticed this after sanding back, so it's been a while and the glue's set now.
So, I thought, I'll drill it again.
Only, the bit got stuck and came out of the chuck - which isn't the best.
What's the best way of getting it out without snapping it off?

Another question: the corner edge - I'd like to chamfer it without splitting off the ends of the finger joints - should I just sand carefully, and in which direction?

Cheers,
Percy

 

[andersonec]

Maybe try sliding a piece of card over the drill bit down onto your wood (to avoid scratching your work) and use a pair of pliers to turn the bit anti clockwise till it comes out, hold the bit down at wood / card level, not at the tip.

Andy

 

[undergroundhunter]

What are the holes for? I would guess that the glue is still going off and is a bit gooey still, try putting the drill in reverse and backing it out that way? Just make sure that the chuck is nice and tight. Only other thing is to use a pair of pliers and work it backwards and forwards carefully.

HTH

Matt

 

[Sir Percy]

Holes are for brass panel pins. More of a decorative touch.

 

[Kalimna]

If the drill bit is stuck with glue, you might try heating with a hair dryer , hot air gun or soldering iron to loosen the glue then pliers/hand drill as above?

Adam

 

[custard]

I hope you'll show us this project when you're finished, I admire your indomitable spirit, battling through all the little set backs on the way!

 

[custard]

By the way, regarding your question about chamfering the corners. Personally I'd use a finely set, freshly sharpened block plane, working from both the bottom and top towards the middle. However, for that to succeed depends upon the finger joints being really tight, any gaps and the block plane will spelch out. The safer route is sandpaper, working not up and down but from side to side around the corner. The critical thing is the abrasive paper must be supported by a really hard backing pad, like a piece of maple or beech. If you use a cork sanding block or anything soft the corners will get dubbed over which looks sloppy. You should approach it as if you are using a cutting tool, steady strokes in a dead straight line, aiming for a crisp 45 degree chamfer.

Good luck!

 

[Sir Percy]

By the way, regarding your question about chamfering the corners. Personally I'd use a finely set, freshly sharpened block plane, working from both the bottom and top towards the middle. However, for that to succeed depends upon the finger joints being really tight, any gaps and the block plane will spelch out. The safer route is sandpaper, working not up and down but from side to side around the corner. The critical thing is the abrasive paper must be supported by a really hard backing pad, like a piece of maple or beech. If you use a cork sanding block or anything soft the corners will get dubbed over which looks sloppy. You should approach it as if you are using a cutting tool, steady strokes in a dead straight line, aiming for a crisp 45 degree chamfer.

Good luck!

Thanks for that, custard. As I typed it, I thought it sounded like a stupid question, but I knew there'd be a good idea out there. I do have a cork block, so you've saved me from a potential blunder there.

 

[Sir Percy]

I hope you'll show us this project when you're finished, I admire your indomitable spirit, battling through all the little set backs on the way!

Filed under 'Past Mistakes'...!

 

[Sir Percy]

Matt, Adam - what I discovered was that the heat from the drill bit was melting the glue, which then clogged up the bit and made it jam. Got it out with pliers, and towards the last few holes it jammed again and this time snapped. There was only a couple of mm sticking out, but was able to grip enough with pliers and extract.

 

[James C]

How did the chamfering go? Did you get the corner you wanted?

 

[Sir Percy]

How did the chamfering go? Did you get the corner you wanted?

Yes, but I probably chickened out of going as far as I could have done. What I did in the end following custard's advice was to use my card sharpener between paper and cork block.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Matt, Adam - what I discovered was that the heat from the drill bit was melting the glue, which then clogged up the bit and made it jam. Got it out with pliers, and towards the last few holes it jammed again and this time snapped. There was only a couple of mm sticking out, but was able to grip enough with pliers and extract.

1/
Either your bit was blunt, or
2/
Your drill was too fast, or
3/
Both
There's a lot to be said for hand drills for jobs like this.