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I use a wooden Pizza peel - birch ply - Does the job well, but handle too short & narrow for comfort (for my size hands) I had some offcuts of 12 x 60 Ash , so cut a length glued on some short shoulders to give me a 'T' shape and routed out the shape of the existing handle and inset that...

Ended up getting a Stanley 9 1/2 (1960's era) Base was true, blade needed sharpening & honing, and it now works a treat.

I’ll focus on f8 ding a 60-1/2. Or 9-1/2 not really clear on the difference, will try to find some pictures

Thnx

I don’t understand the numbers what do they mean ?

Time to treat myself to a Low Angle block plan. I have seen plenty of ‘Faithfull 6012’ models around £23 price point, are they any good ? or perhaps a RIDER NO. 60 1/2. But more than twice the price. either of these better ? See plenty of Stanley’s 110’s 2nd hand, but unsure if better.

I have but they don't specify if flat tip or concave.

I have some very old nail punches. Instead of a flat face, they have a half round ‘dimple, to allow them to fit on the head of a nail better. Are these still available, and if so do they have a particular name ?

Going to be assembling a new gravity smoker. (Think auto feed charcoal BBQ) Been suggested to use anti-seize compound on the various screws & bolts. They are typically M4 Steel black painted machine screws. Any suggestions for an anti-seize paste /thread dip.

It's just a sketch to indictate that cupping occurs, I took the direction of an off-cut of the T&G timber just receoved ... looking for an answer whether you fit 'radial' rings upwards or downwards.

Boards are cut flat .... but within Hrs all boards start to cup, Cupping is a wood floor’s natural reaction to moisture. T&G tries to retrain this by interlocking of the boards. Wood warping - Wikipedia

Thank you

I‘ll see what I can find

I was just going to pin, was advised add a bead of polymer glue to each joist will be worthwhile, then screw nail through tongu. I have bought stainless steel pins for the fixing

Boards arrived today - special order to get clear treated boards. This is going to outside open sided building - so no walls. hence no room to put it inm, to acclimatise. It's putting a ceiling on the structure in the pic. The intent is to glue line on rafter using Polymer glue and hidden...

As per OP - these are being fitted to a horizontal ceiling, I can understand your response if it were on a vertical wall.

Not sure what than means .... I put a straight edge on the boards just delivered they have a very minor 0.25mm cup as per diagram. Just wondering do I fit growth rings facing up or down

I'm cladding a ceiling with T&G .... approx 3m square, with gallow brackets coming down in corners (pic of roof attached) for an aesthetic look, each corner with have a triangle of boards running at 45 degrees to the long runs. One of the corners needs to be removable (or hinged) for access...

I am cladding horizontal ceiling with t&g softwood. it has v-profile on both sides, so can be fitted either way up. The board will want to cup in the direction of downwards facing growth rings, so is it best to fit with growth rings upwards so edges pull tighter against the next board, or...

Not really. What I would like 'ideally' is 1" BSP M to F 45 degree in brass ... but they are VERY expensive. Plus the M threads are BSPT which is not ideal for using a lock nut. Plan B is I will probably go with 45 degree F to F elbow ... and insert a 1" BSP barrel nipple into one end. I...