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Famag forstner bit, I have an expansive bit but not that easy and wouldn't give the same result.

How can you mess up a decent product like a carpenter's pencil? Having been made up in Cumbria for donkey's years, someone decided they would be best made in China. Except they are rubbish now with the lead pushing out of the one that I bought yesterday!! Useless and not priced like a Chinese...

I was under the impression that it was the same people, they had quite a few shops but went out of business and then started Rutlands. Heard some poor reports especially on customer/supplier treatment, last resort and would check and double check special offers and prices.

I use a Famag boremax bit freehand, the point allows a steady start, only ever done it with oak doors but still going strong. A drill stand would be better but I'm impatient!

I've had a 7 1/4" Makita for about 2 years and not needed it much but since buying the Festool TS55, I've done a lot more and far more accurately. (Probably my cack-handedness before) The dearer tools are a bit of a gulp moment but the delight in using the makes up for it. Whatever you get...

Bedford Saw and Tool, very knowledgeable, family firm, loads of good advice.

Thanks, saved me cutting up a disc for nothing! very pleased as to how they work on my sander with dust extraction, lovely finish too.

Fein blades are expensive as the majority of them sold are only woodcutting blades where as the WSE ones can all cut nails and last at least 5 times longer than the others (even Fein) Spread the cost of a blade and adaptor out over the life of the blade and they are better value. Personally I...

Brilliant tool, I keep finding new jobs for it. I must get a semi circular diamond saw for cutting out grout next. If you use it a fair bit buy the WSE blades, they last so much longer than cheap blades or the cheaply made Fein originals. The quality is much better. I'm thinking about cutting...

Definitely not a round point! As you draw back with the pencil, there is a lack of support for the tip where as a chisel edge works far better

Hahaha, a spurious allegation! I reviewed an item and funnily enough it never appeared, possibly any criticism must be ignored. In answer to the original question, if it says Dakota on the outside DON'T BUY IT!!!!!!!

They deserve as much support as possible. I'll be bidding.

I wouldn't bother, get the angle wrong and you've got a wrong size drill!

Well worth sharpening any blade to get the last use out of it, the ones that are welded don't tend to last long enough to get to that stage as the welds fail quite often. Carbon steel (rather than bimetal) will sharpen up temporarily

The Multimaster is one of my better buys, I highly recommend the WSE bimetal blades, if the machine is moved side to side so the sawdust is cleared, it can stop the build-up of heat.

Try Beeline Engineering in Milton Keynes 01908 222999. Very helpful

Famag lip and spur bits, especially if it's hardwood, they also do chrome vanadium versions for soft woods. Made in Germany rather than the far east. Best I've used.

To do what? Metal drilling would be different to concrete or wood. SDS, Masonry with plain shanks, lip and spur?

Ooops, just realised what you wanted. I'll keep quiet!

Famag 20mm HSS countersink, see Matthew at Workshop Heaven, he does Famag.