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Worth saying that at some point Record changed from hollow bars to solid. Mine is a newer solid one and I wouldn't want hollow bars, to be honest. The design of the lathe is good but can be done better, and well engineered modern lathes are a noticeable improvement even on the solid bars...

I'd recommend the Herald. Apart from anything else, I believe Record intend to discontinue the CL3 (the CL4 has already gone) imminently, and support will not last long afterwards. I have the current model of CL3 and while it isn't a bad lathe, the round bar design fundamentally lacks a...

Right, sorry for not being able to reply sooner! Steb centre - my problem here is that I want to turn a spindle that's had a hole drilled through the centre. I don't have a Steb Steb, but my knock-off Steb's centre point isn't big enough to actually centre on the hole. I also want to avoid...

I'd like to be able to turn my workpiece end to end several times during the turning process and retain concentricity, for which the standard procedure on a metal lathe is between centres working. I've never seen this done on a wood lathe and can't find any real reference to it. Is it...

Does anyone happen to know if this rest happens to match the newer grey-painted CL3/4 series? I would have thought so but I don't trust 'em!

The graph shows the change in standardised mortality rates (little adjustments for the structure of the population) for England & Wales, which have some of the most closely analysed mortality in the world. > the later death spike may have been infant mortality. Infant mortality occurs mostly...

Do you have a T-slotted table? If so an infinite/two-part vise might be the answer.

I would buy a decent grinder second hand - there are always lots of them about - replace the wheels, and spend the rest on a suitable jig. The way I see it, you may be able to get a little bit more out of a specialised slow grinder or belt system but a high speed grinder is a workhorse that you...

What I would might try is load up the Record website on archive.org, and do some digging to see when they appear.

Record Power do a big range of adapters for their SC4 chuck, in particular including a blank that if nothing else will do can be bored and threaded by your local friendly machinist for you. https://www.recordpower.co.uk/category/chuck-inserts

I'd be the first to admit bevel angles is not my specialist subject, but that angle looks rather abrupt for a spindle gouge. Those jigs are intended to produce a fingernail grind, with the tip protruding 2-3". If you want a bevel angle that steep/square, I would just grind it straight from the...

I'm curious - the fact is even very basic jigs are usually perfectly capable of producing an adequate grind. A pic of your jigs set up for grinding might be useful. I certainly get on absolutely fine with one of those jigs made of bits of angle iron and cheap steel section off ebay.

I think they were almost certainly used for some sort of textile manufacture. This video demonstrates one possibility:

Hmm; how thick does backing board have to be? I wonder if glueing some thick paper to it would be enough.

> Are you saying that I should allow the d bit to do more cutting than the 1/2mm or so that I was planning? No, reaming is fine - have to admit I'm not sure where the line is drawn between reaming and following a pilot hole (with an actual D bit, that is, not the straight cutting edges in my...

Bit concerned by this to be honest, as said in normal use it should be impossible for a chuck to fall off, so let's just be sure: - you *are* running the lathe in the right direction? - the chuck thread definitely matches the spindle? - you did screw it all the way on till it hit the shoulder...

Yes, it is called the "Broad Arrow" and in fact goes back a very, very, long way, being in established use by the 14th century. Often seen with the letters WO (war office) or BO (Board of Ordnance).

Yes, sorry, reduce the diameter just enough to stop it rubbing. Oh and again, maybe an obvious point, but this thing will not follow a smaller hole, it's a one-pass cut. You also see these kinds of drill made with a rounded nose, which is why they're usually called D-bit drills/reamers.

This is how we bore long holes on woodwinds - normally much narrower but bigger sizes should only make it straighter. You need a bit of silver steel and then grind a flat on the end, about 3-4 times the diameter, and then grind an oblique cutting face. I would also relieve most of the shaft...

It depends on the type of filament; some decayed very quickly meaning that it was possible for them to strobe. Most did not in the last years of production. The strobe risk is mainly from fluorescent tubes.