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Likely made for R Fairclough & Co of 72 Byron St Liverpool (1856-1883). Listed as "edge tool and plane maker" in the 1860 Liverpool directory. (wooden planes seem to be the most common "R Fairclough" tools found in a quick web search)

Stanley 200 honing guide. With the wheel riding on the bench, and the stone in a raised bed

A man and a woman who had never met before, but who were both married to other people, found themselves assigned to the same sleeping room on a transcontinental train. Though initially embarrassed and uneasy over sharing a room, they were both very tired and fell asleep quickly, he in the...

The plane blade with an eye (and likely the horned wooden plane) will be French, made by Goldenberg. Französische Werkzeughersteller und -händler: Goldenberg, Dorlisheim

Similar style, but with only two spurs, were called "button bits" and were used to cut buttons in shell/bone/ivory/horn/ebony etc. Your 4 spur version could cut an annulus/washer in similar materials, but I don't know what for (If the inner spurs were shorter you could cut a button with an...

This idea is a bust. Polished it, put it on the wall, talked to it, but I can't get any conversation out of it. (I could try flowers, or chocolates, but its probably only good for screwing)

found a picture of another one, slightly different handle design, same thin bladed driver. I think the suggestion that this is for adjusting some screw setting (carburetor, or ?), not for driving wood screws, is more likely correct

Found this unusual right angle drive screwdriver. I've not seen one like it before. Big, heavy, requires two haned operation. You hold the metal shaft in one hand, and turn the wooden handle to drive the gears that turn the screwdriver blade. I'm assuming its a screwdriver, made for accessing...

Will I Live to see 80? (Here's something to think about.) I recently picked a new primary care doctor. After two visits and exhaustive Lab tests, she said I was doing fairly well for my age. (I am past Seventy Five). A little concerned about that comment, I couldn't resist asking her...

Some medallion references at backsaw-dot-net Spear and Jackson Medallions Looks like red collars replaced green ones (or same/overlapping period, both stating 200yrs experience), with black ones before that stating 180 yrs experience, replacing the first brass ones stating 160 yrs...

While I don't approve of personal attacks, I have to sympathize with Myfordman, as I find incessant "what's that mean" posts profoundly irritating......also non-joke comments in a joke forum..........oops I used to be indecisive, but now, I'm not sure

Looks great. How are you producing the steam ? (or are you running it on compressed air?)

Simon Barley's definitive book on British saws lists Slack Sellars & Co at Capital Works 1957-1981. JCasssidy's saw has the "capital" stamp and logo, indicating it probably dates 1950s or later (note that early Slack Sellars saws from the 1800s into the 1940s, had a different logo featuring a...

Yes, you'll need new blades, as those old ones probably only have 50 to 100 years of casual use left in them. AND you'll need to flatten the soles to within 500 microns of flat (also the sides MUST be absolutely square to the sole, etc, etc). I mean, how can you possibly do good work with them...

I,d send you one if you were closer to Ontario and the post was quicker/cheaper. If you can't find the right bit, try; - a bit adapter and bit (or just the long bit with hex shaft) -or, a bit from one of those multi piece screwdrivers -or, make a bit from one of those screwdrivers with a square...

I can get these pdfs if I google "lee valley stanley plane tote" (maybe CSIS has you on the restricted viewing list ):D

Looks like a European import from c1970. I haven't seen that design, but similar tags without a through screw (but different face design) were used on some German import budget saws. The other WS medallion is a typical British medallion with a screw through the handle and a nut on the other...

I usually put the blade horizontal in a steel vice (which forms a heat sink to protect the working end), heat the tang red hot, then slide on the handle with gentle taps from a mallet. (Lots of smoke and maybe a small flame). If the handle slides on with little effort to within 1/4" of final...

Drill a line of 1/8 holes Clean out as much as possible with your 1/8" chisel. Heat the steel screwdriver shaft and burn it into place (may take a couple of heats to burn in full depth)

"Smith's Key" catalog from early 1800s shows something similar. Called an "iron handled cleaver" selling for 9d per pound. Would be used by a butcher to chop/split meat carcases (although, in later life, your one looks like it might have been used to split wood, and beaten with a metal hammer)