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Other than Axminister, is there anywhere else I could find Fisch bits...?

Bugbear, yeah I did. There's a definite twist there. I'll try again, but the new blade, being much thicker, is protruding right out to the edge of the mouth, leaving no gap at all. Ehh, okay. If you had read the posts above you'd notice that'd i do have the plane working just fine, but I have...

Haha, fair enough! So I finally got a new iron, its a Quansgeng number (my spelling is no doubt way off), but it's much thicker than my standard Stanley iron. If I want it to fit correctly, can I move the frog back or do I need to widen the mouth...?

Yeah, that makes sense. So what would be the easiest way for me to increase the mouth size if I wanted to make bigger cuts? Would I have to move the frog back - or is there something i've missed..? Thats the one - old eclipse style. I saw a post about making a board with a couple of angles on...

The reason for the top part being out is because the previous bevel was so out! I'm using a draper honing guide I got with some chisels - it's probably not the greatest in the world, but it does the job. I'm saving for a wedding at the mo, so i'm trying to cut down on unnecessary purchases...

Good news. I've got my plane working. I ditched the beech and moved to a piece of lime. After honing the blade a little more (it's not perfect yet, but I reckon it'll take another half hour of sharpening to get an even bevel). I resharpened to 25 degrees and put everything back together - frog...

Okay so i've got the honing guide out and i'm sharpening - it's taking me ages, but i'm getting there. Any advice at the best angle? Should I be going for 30° or 25°....or something else completely? I still think my iron has a slight warp to it. I've noticed that, even with a honing guide, my...

I haven't changed the angle of the iron, i've just sharpened the angle that was previously there. Might go find me something so I can measure it.

Yeah I'll adjust it back so it's flush and see how I get on. Yes it's an old plane, going by the rosewood handles, silver adjustment knob and the markings on the lateral lever I believe it's post war, maybe 50s or 60s. Maybe earlier (brass knobs weren't used during the war, due to cost). The...

Okay, I had moved it back intentionally and at an angle because I was trying to figure out why my blade was protruding at such a strange angle. I'll try moving it forward. For those who're obsessing over the blade sharpness, when I received the blade it was totally dull, had loads of deep...

Ahh, thanks for that explanation! I don't think i've got a bevel on the back side, but I'll double check. I re-sharpened the iron and cleaned up the bottom of the frog, brought the chip breaker closer and made the mouth opening slightly smaller. The back of the iron wasn't actually flat, took me...

Thanks for that, i'll try bringing the blade further across the mouth and see if it helps, as well as reducing the distance to the cap. With regards to the mouth of the sole, it certainly does look as if it's not quite evenly flat, i'll have a look into that too. I appreciate your replies...

The picture makes it look like that, but there's no rust on the blade, it was sharpened until there was an even burr along the back edge and then stropped. I sharpen all my knives this way, they're sharp enough to cut hair from my hand (which is what I tested it with). The rusty colour you see...

Thanks for all the advice folks! Bugbear, thanks for the detailed response - let me go through it and get back to you. 1)I'll re sharpen the blade without the leather strop this time, just to make sure i'm not making the blade blunt in any way. 2) I'll re flatten the sole and see what I get...

Here's a few pics of what I have and what I'm getting:

I guess it's possible - i'll check when I get back home and refine the cutting edge again. I'll leave out the strop to make sure it's not that. My angle seems good, I definitely had a good and even burr along the edge before I stropped. Thanks for your advice guys, i'll let you know how I get on...

Ohh. Well, i'll go back and double check my blade is to 90 degrees. Maybe it's not. Would I be looking for a straight edge on my iron or a slight bevel? Not sure what difference it makes in all honesty.

Yeah maybe. I'm able to get a range of fairly hard woods local to me, but finding softer woods is a little tougher for some reason. I'm trying it on a piece of beech - it has an even grain, not much in the way of knots either. I have a piece of oak (I'm not even gonna bother on that), some...

I've experimented - maybe 2-4mm depending on what I've been fettling with.

I'll cut a long story short - I have a 1960's ish Stanley no 4 plane. I've flattened the sole, i've sharpened the edge on diamond stones followed by a strop - it cuts paper just fine! I've taken the chip breaker out and it sits flush on the blade. It's bevel down, not the widest mouth opening...