Recent content by wrightclan

Not on your side of the pond, but would these do the job?

CSM Abrasives has 150mm grey Webrax discs, if that is any use to you.

I've used all of the above, but what I currently do is put a couple strips of masking on each piece. (Line them up so that the tape on the workpiece will roughly match up with the tape on the template--if that makes sense.) Then, use a line of hotmelt glue on the tape of one surface. It is...

Yeah, I used to have a Ferm Jointer with the same problem. I replaced the blade with a Freud Blade. Problem fixed. Actually it wasn't a bad biscuit jointer (with the Freud Blade). It was quite accurate, if I worked from the base. The fence was a little less parallel to the blade, but still...

Hi, I haven't posted on here for awhile, but thought I'd add my two pence here. Yes, you can do what you described with a biscuit jointer that has preset depths. If you use the #20 setting into the thicker piece (e.g. a plywood shelf) and the #0 setting into the thinner stock (e.g. 1/2"...

My Dad made it, but I'm sure if you do a bit of searching on this forum or some other woodworking forums, you can find several designs.

Yeah, mine is a 16mm or 5/8" arbour. You have to remove the loose backing flange to use any dado. When you do that it exposes 5/8" (16mm) of smooth arbor. I believe it is designed that way to prevent you using a dado any wider than 16mm (the EU standard at the time of manufacture.) Then...

You can buy a used Startrite for considerably less and upgrade or make your own higher quality fence later. That said, the fence that comes with a startrite, if not abused is not a bad fence. I only put a homemade Biesemeyer-style fence on so that I could extend the rails to get a 50" rip...

You could temporarily attach it to a larger piece of MDF or whatever. Then, you are holding onto a more manageable piece, and keeping your fingers away from the cutter. Hot melt glue or double-sided tape come to mind as a way to attach it. Or you could even use screws, through the "holder"...

Nothing wrong with using a tablesaw, as doorboy said. Use a blade with a high toothcount. (60 or above for a 10" tablesaw.) It can also be cut with a handheld circular saw (again high tooth count). Lay it on a sacrificial sheet of something such as ply/mdf/foam insulation and set the depth to...

T1 and T2 dry clear. IIRC, T3 is designed for darker woods. I've used T1 and T2, never used T3. Brad

I'm still baffled as to what the NRA has to do (either in reality or even in the minds of the tin-foil types) with 9/11. The NRA is an American 2nd amendment rights lobby, not a governmental entity of any kind. Not trying to make any kind of point about the NRA, just truly confused as to the...

JasonB, I must beg to differ slightly on the .125mm difference in the diameter. That translates to less than .005 inch. In practice, with the arbor nut and flanges tightened down, I suspect that it will rotate even less than that off centre. As long as the arbor is concentric, the back...

Looks pretty similar to the LS1040. Nothing wrong with the LS1040. I used one for a couple years as a site saw. I bought a reconditioned one, it was light and portable, and once set up accurately, stayed accurate. I resold it for more than I paid for it! Brad

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