Recent content by Steve (Correze)

Just a pause for thought, though it's already been hinted at in the thread. I used to work in a Watersports shop, lots of expensive surfing gear, clothing etc. We had everything, bars on the windows, steel shutters over all the doors and windows, alarm system, the works. The scrotes removed...

Option 1, second one looks very scary indeed. I only place my guard to the side of the stock if the stock is so thick/tall as to make placing it over the top impractical. As my guard is on an arm fixed to the end of the outfeed table, raising it also moves it towards the outfeed end of the...

I've got the same kit. The saw will cut 19mm MFC/18mm MDF without any problems, but I've never used it for more than a couple of cuts at a time, as I said above, mainly use it for breaking down panels so they'll fit in my car. It is a lot slower than a mains saw though. Max cut is about 25mm...

Agree on the battery life, but if you need to cut a panel without mains power, they're invaluable. Mine gets used for cutting down panels recovered from work so they'll fit in my car. Otherwise, I only use it for occasional cuts in thin material, mostly as it has a better blade than my...

If you've already got a SCMS or table saw then a 60 or 80 tooth blade, negative rake, triple-chip profile, will cost about the same, possibly less. Far more versatile, in my opinion.

Looks familiar... not made quite that much mess at home yet, but I can easily fill a 50 litre sack after a few hours with the planer/thicknesser. At work, you know it's time to clean up when you can no longer walk behind the machine... seen (and cleaned-up) 3 feet of sawdust behind a CNC router...

For sliding tables and the risk of an "over the top" kickback, most have the ability to clamp the workpiece firmly to the table (which is why the sliding table should be set with it's surface slightly higher than the saw table). No way it's going to shift then.

With regard to guards, all the saws I've seen of that type are generally fitted with a wooden box enclosure, to the same pattern as a modern machine and covering all moving parts quite safely. Just looks a bit ugly and tends to get "lost" on secondhand ones. Easy enough to build though. Be...

I think you'd find that would be the issue. I love my power plane, it has many uses and is one of the most used tools when working on site, but it's not really correct to think of it as a powered plane, rather a rotary cutting tool that can remove small quantities of material with precision.

You can square-off internal corners on a 3-axis machine using aggregate tooling, such as horizontal spindles or vertically-oriented circular saws. It does take far longer though. Can't think of any aggregates small enough to get into a 25mm hole though, at least not on the machines we use...

Ugh... yes, I know the ones you mean, definitely check them in store before buying, on both long edges, I've known beam saws to cut a nice curve when they're overloaded. Still prefer the builder's rule, dirt cheap and has a multitude of uses, used mine to align my planer tables the other day...

I'd be wary of melamine/chipboard/MDF unless you have a reference to check it against. Edgebanders can put a curve on the edge if they're not setup correctly and material that has only been finished on one edge will bow over time.

Aluminium builder's rule? Should get a 2m one for under a tenner. Straight enough for most purposes.

Look for local dealers of professional and semi-professional machinery. A very quick search turned up this one (no idea if they're local) who appear to offer the full range from Lurem and Jet. http://www.lurem.nl/ Most of these places have a stock of used machines from trade-ins and...

You're looking for "chant thermocollant". I'm also struggling to find any online in France, try your local Point P? http://www.pointp.fr/ Most DIY sheds have solid wood edging, if that's any help.