Recent content by richardbell81

The process I initially used was... 1. Clean the general grease, dirt and grime off with water and washing up liquid. I made sure not to over drench the table and dried any excess water off with a clean cloth. 2. Once that dried i Stripped using b&q paint & varnish stripper, 3. Once stripped and...

I've tried the cleaning solution of meths/ws/vinegar but first impressions are that it's not made any difference... the wood still looks patchy. I think my last resort will have to be the wood dye to try and even out the colour. Think i'l try Rustins light teak. Unless anybody else has any...

Hi Bob, thanks for getting back. I've never heard of using petrol before!? I'd say the veneer is a few mm thick but no more... especially now i've sanded. Would there be any harm in trying a cleaning solution of white spirit, meths and white vinegar or do you think it's past that now?

I have already stripped it using paint/varnish stripper. It was the b&q water based stuff but I have used this plenty of times before to good effect (once you get to grips with it). When I first got the table it had a very sticky top which I presumed was just a build up of grease, dirt and oil...

Has anyone tried colron wood reviver... could this be worth a try?

I've tried white spirit with a cloth, white spirit with a scouring pad and white spirit with some wire wool but doesn't seem to do much! I haven't tried Meths yet so i could give that a go. wOuld you recommend trying that with a cloth or some fine wire wool?

Update... I've just tried some Colron wax remover which doesn't seem to have done anything! It's removed the thin layer of Danish oil that I put on yesterday but it's just left the un-even surface behind!! It's as if there is an invisible layer of something on the table top which is not allowing...

I've just bought an old McIntosh teak veneer dining table which i'm attempting to restore. I've restored and stripped plenty of pieces of furniture before so i'm fairly confident with projects such as this but i'm the first to admit that i'm by no means a professional! I've carefully washed...

Thanks for all the info bosshogg but I think i'm going to go for something like the osmo polyx oil... it seems to get generally good reviews on here. Like any project, there are just so many products to choose from that it's difficult to know where to start!

Thanks for the response. I didn't realise you could use shellac on floorboards? As I'm not that familiar with applying shellac I may be tempted to go with something else but I will look into it as its not something I'd considered!

Did some further research at lunch... am i right in thinking that water based varnishes don't last very long and oil based ones are yellowing? If so, then that leaves me with either a hardwax or a Polyurethane based finish? So many choices!

Hi there, I know this topic has been covered before but I suppose i'm after a few more up to date and definitive responses! We've just bought our first house and i've exposed the floorboards which i'm planning on sanding this weekend. So... would everyone recommend a water based, poly based or...

ok... so i've used the Everbuild X3 stuff... (which is EU regulation :-) and to be fare it seems to be doing an ok job. The only problem I have is i'm not sure how to neutralise and wash it off. It says to use water and a brush / steel pad on the bottle but i'm always a bit weary of using water...

Thanks for everyones response! Yeh I think this furniture has some poly varnish on it and the nitromors just isn't cutting through it like the Everbuild stuff did! I just ordered what I thought was a tin of the trade everbuild stripper on Ebay but they posted the newer X3 stuff that comes in a...

Hi there, I'm currently trying to strip some 70s teak furniture using Nitromors and I just wondered how everyone else rated it as a furniture stripper? I'm so far very un-imprssed with it to say it's a 'leading brand' and comes highly recommended. I'm using the Nitromorse All Purpose stripper...