Recent content by Mo27

Thanks everybody for your helpful advice and information. Now I know what the missing bits look like, I’ll have a good search around the area with a metal detector. I‘m tempted to buy a fully restored one (or an easier to restore example) as it is a nice machine and just the right size for my...

Thanks for your replies. I’ll have another look around tomorrow and let you know if I find anything. 👍

Made by Squared of Swindon. Plate says Type TY1. Class 9001. 600 volts max. Couldn’t find any more bits. About 4‘ high. Seems sound and a heavy old lump. Wheels spin OK. Seems too good to scrap. Anybody know anything about the manufacturer?

Needed one anyway and just got one for £150 delivered instead of £187.66 which was cheapest I could find. Need to use paypal and enter code CUK20. Minimum spend £20. maximum saving £50. Applies to most retailers as far as I can tell. More details available on hotukdeals.co.uk

Look out for the Lidl Florabest folding saw. Incredibly good value for £2.99. I use them a lot at work and prefer them to my Bahco Laplander as they cut quicker and easier. The handle is more comfortable and the two-stage locking button automatically stops you closing the blade on your fingers.

I use axes at work and have tried various makes over the years. I only ever use Fiskars axes now. Cheap, light, well-balanced, unbreakable, virtally rust free and really hold an edge well. I have half a dozen in different sizes plus the loppers and can't fault any of them - the splitting axe is...

If it's anything like the Stihl biodegradable then stay well clear. I had to use that in my chainsaw when doing a job on a riverbank and it bunged up the oil pump. It set like wax and was a right pain to shift. Made my chainsaw trousers stink like a chip-shop for weeks afterwards too. Always...

Thanks for all your comments. I realise now that a ts is overkill to remove a few mm of crook and too much of a faff to adjust clamps for every board. I decided that what I really needed was the jointer part of a planer/jointer which in essence is a router table - just like the one I already...

Thanks for your help, but that's the exact jig I tried, but not as easy as it looks to use and at 60mm too close to the blade for my peace of my mind. Part of my problem may be down to the fence on my table saw not being solid enough, but I'm wondering if a decent bandsaw might be a better...

I have over 2,000 old used oak fencing pales 1m x 60mm x 20mm. I have been putting them through my Makita 2012NB planer and gluing them up into boards for table tops etc. I need to straighten the edges on quite a few of them as they are bowed. I have tried doing it on a table saw using a jig...

I have had one for six months and have used it a lot generally with a homemade sledge. I replaced the blade with one with more tpi for finer cut. The fence does flex, but I get round this by clamping it square at the end. It's a powerful, but quite noisy saw. I think it's very good value for money.