Recent content by kidwellj

I've got a big project coming up to build out a room full of built-in bookshelves and a few cabinets for other rooms, so have just been chatting with the rep at Lathams about plywood prices. I was glad to see they've come down a bit from astronomical prices a year ago. He mentioned they are...

Has anyone ever managed to find a cranked cabinet door hinge that works on a 25mm thick door? It seems like the only thing that anyone sells is for 16mm thick timber, and I've opted for a thicker door, just because. Seems like the sort of thing that might come in options, but I'm coming up blank...

I hadn't though of structural integrity on the corner, but @hlvd raises a good point. I suppose I could run battens using plugs off the exposed brick wall behind and then fix to this. Will have to have a think about how to integrate stability on that corner overall thought. I get @Ollie78's...

Yep, I'm just going to have simple cushions for the bottom, plywood will serve as the back. @Ollie78 - got a pic of your banquette? Would love to see this in action! I had not run across buttonfix before, was thinking about putting on side panels via magnetic clasps and hidden push hinges for...

I like the *sound* of integrating some visual structure with a corner post - any images out there on the internet that show what you mean by this? Not quite able to wrap my head around the details on this...

Given that heat from rads only really moves upwards (as opposed to outwards from front) my plan for radiators is to put covering on the top that allows for maximum airflow. I was looking into stamped aluminum sheets with a pattern that is 60% open, or possibly wicker with an even high rate of...

Yeah, so that's sort of what I'd figured. I can possibly resurrect my knowledge of trigonometry, but what's befuddling me is the necessity of calculating angles on the vertical edges of the three intersecting sheets/pieces. Was hoping there'd be some carpenter's shortcut that simplifies this...

I'm finishing a bench for our kitchen, which is intended to add a bit of seating + storage and hide two big radiators. Now that I've finished the carcass and am starting to put in the ply sheets I'm trying to find a good way to adapt the original design away from a straight back to a slightly...

Fair point! I'll go for it and dust off the smaller collets...

I've been routing out 6mm (well, 6.7mm, but hey ho) dadoes to slide in cabinet backs and drawer bottoms. Having just broken my bit, I did a bit of work to see what might be the problem. My collett seems ok, and there aren't any worrying marks on the broken bit (it's a trend 6.3mm double-flute...

Looks like I'm doing something pretty similar to you. We've got a double belfast for the sink, so I need to properly reinforce the bottom. What's your plan for finishing the fronts if you aren't doing face frames? Just doors and strips? Interesting point also about leaving the panels to shift...

@CStanford - that's exactly what we were thinking here, alongside benefits of better vapour dispersion, being able to non-destructively change kitchen layout as our uses of the space change over the years seems like a much better use of all that high quality timber.

Thanks @Spectric - that's immensely helpful. I spent the night searching for a decent photo of one of these 'in progress' so I could see how carcassing comes together, to no avail. Wondering if anyone on the forum (maybe @DBC ?) has a pic of WIP traditional cabinets like this for a kitchen? But...

@Spectric Can you explain a bit more of what you mean by chunky components? Would be very interested to hear more about how you did your build.

I'm planning on building a kitchen full of freestanding cabinets using 18mm cabinet grade ply. I've built standard cabinets before and am trying to get my head around some of the design changes. In the past, I have tended to route a dado into the sides for the bottom to fit into. It seems to me...