Recent content by Kayen

Is it mostly on the sides that face the sun? It might have crystallised and allowed water to penatrate. Probably best to sand it all off and use an ozmo deck oil or something similar.

I'm sure if the OP spends enough time and causes enough trouble he will get the guarantee honoured - just don't be surprised when Lidls decides they're more trouble than they're worth and stops offering them. These days it seems people want to pay for peanuts but expect macadamia.

If it doesn't work out of the box it goes back, but I do understand the concept that cheap tools may not last too long.

And then the price will go up, so cheap tools for people that want a 'throw-away' tool for one or two jobs won't exist. If you want a tool for the medium to long term invest a bit or a lot more, surely most would understand that concept.

With your limited tools I would suggest cutting your wood down the middle and making two semi circles with your jig saw and a rasp, then glueing them back together to form your oval.

I worked for him many years ago and did a beautiful job for him (even if I do say so myself), when one of his 'people' phoned me regarding another job, I was unfortunately ' too busy'. Horrible bloke and only one of about three clients in forty odd years I have a dislike for..

I could be well wrong here but aren't tiles, to a large degree, self- supporting? I've only tiled once or twice but surely the weight is stacked and not held entirely by the substrate they're fixed to. Hopefully you're tiling from floor to ceiling, so each row will be supported by the...

Thanks Ian, - "I glued a sacrificial strip to one end and put them across my planer then thicknessed them" - is that to account for the breakout as you're planing endgrain? I have a spiral carbide PT but hadn't considered planing it, but I'll give it a go 👍 Kev

Does anyone have an idea of the optimum size of each block? I have some 52mm steamed beech so I was going to make each block 45 x 45, but I'm now wondering if at that size the board might become unstable and prone to shrinkage. Will I be better off with something like 35 x 35? I plan on making...

I'm not familiar with your particular paint but thinning paint beyond the manufacturer's recommendation usually reduces its durability, so I would check with them.

I used to work for a company making prefabricated sound recording studios. We used to fill the frame void with dried silica sand (any moisture would eventually rot the panel) and then line with rockwool. The whole thing stood on rubberTyco mats which insulated it from transmitting through the...

I haven't had the time to go through all the answers, but another option would be to take the OSB off and add another 4x2 (5x2) on top of the existing joists. Prop them from below first to give them a positive bend, then glue and nail the next set on top. If you taper them it would give you a...

A 2 degree slope is IMO the equivalent of zero slope. Asking after you've done it doesn't really make any sense and if you run out of timber you surely buy more . . . Water will undoubtedly pool and add weight, which will cause your roof to sag, which will then gather more water and add more...

The biggest issue with making the doors yourself is the spraying. It's highly recommended that you use a catalysed lacquer that is water resistant and scrubable - I'm assuming you haven't got those facilities. Any sort of finish you apply with a brush or roller will look pretty poor IMO.

I wouldn't be happy paying that, but then I wouldn't accept a quote from a photo. I always want to meet who works on my house before trusting them with the job.