Recent content by J_SAMa

Hi all, I've just finished painting an MDF desk with oil-based paint and want to put on a hard-wearing finish coat on it. It will be under heavy use so I would like to use poly. Will I get adhesion problems if I use water based (already have a can lying around)? Do I have to use a barrier coat...

In short, it depends on how you work. If the rest of your arsenal is western and you have a western workbench, then Japanese saws make no sense at all. They are fast and smooth and all but that's about it. Buy the Veritas, the perfect beginner saw, you'll like it (if you have a western kit that...

By that, do you mean that I should preferably mount the vice so that the fixed (back) jaw hangs over the front edge of wood? I would have to mount the vice fairly closely to the edge to achieve that wouldn't I?

Thank you all! Are they fixed with coach screws fixed to the wood or secured with countersunk nuts on the underside? I get a feeling that countersinking the nuts would take off too much would and make the holes too weak so are coach screws a better choice? I've been looking at this vice...

Mod: not sure if this is the right place to post this, if not, please move the thread. The dents in my woodworking vice jaws strong suggest that I buy a proper metalworking vice... I don't want to mount it to my woodworking bench as there is not enough space so am thinking of somehow mounting it...

I've a friend who does carving in his living room, with the work held in a workmate...

At what temperature? Say 200 C? I'm not sure what the modern equivalent of "Sheffield cast steel" is so haven't been able to find a tempering chart.

That's the thing... As I said, once raised the wire edge is quite tough to remove. I need to spend about 5 to 10 minutes stropping it. Even though I can't feel it with my fingertips it may still be there. But I don't think it's the wire edge. The chips get much bigger with more use.

Bought a pre-war, NOS J. Jowett plane iron for a plane build (small jointer). For some reason it is surprisingly brittle. It develops chips quickly, really quickly. Below is a shot of the edge after less than a dozen strokes on pine. Sharpening angle was a good 35 deg. I even added a back bevel...

Yes I tried that. With mine The screw loud loosen quite easily . Also the wheel's bevel pushed the fence away from the stock. A pin gauge doesn't do that as there is less contact at any given point. Don't get me wrong I still love my wheel gauge for marking housings, rebates and such. I'm just...

Wheel gauges are fine for marking out joints but are beveled on the wrong side for dimensioning stock by hand. I use a pin gauge sharpened with only one bevel on the side away from the stock. But I suppose just about everyone dimensions stock by machine nowadays so...

Mate, 50 for 2 "G" models... Made in England Stanley planes (especially newer ones) are hit and miss. Be on the lookout for Record planes. Their quality was good well into the 70s and even the early 80s. What other tools do you have? If you're well-equipped with a couple chisels and some power...

I imagine you can hold the saw horizontally by the side tote, perhaps for flush cutting? On second thought, probably not for flush cutting as it's a backsaw...

Thanks. That reminds me, I should try my luck on that Sheffield forum. With any luck I might even find people who were employed there (if that "Richardson Bros." really existed).

Problem found and solved... see update. I feel so stupid now...