Recent content by CWatters

Good idea thanks.

Making a jig for cutting through dovetails on a router table. Works well but it seems very easy to get tear-out. Particularly on one side of the cut as the blade is leaving the wood on that side. Does anyone here use spiral cutter bits for this? Do they help? Edit: Can you even get spiral...

I inherited one similar to this. Was taught to always release the blade tension after use. Is that standard practice? If so do larger band saws have a quick release lever so you can release and reapply the same tension easily? I think the nylon(?) blade guides on mine are shot.

Opinion varies a lot. Sometimes they want it to blend in, other times they want it to look new. What they don't like is something in between. I can't remember if a workshop is classed as a habitable building but something like a Gym is. In which case it may also need Building Control Approval...

Just to follow up - I've put three coats of Danish on and no effect on the veneer adhesive.

Thanks, It's a medium size table/desk. Photo near end.. oak-table-top-t77259.html Have been trying to decide for awhile. I lean towards Danish as I've used it once before on a mirror frame.

I think it has to be creosote substitute these days. Have read that old sleepers shouldn't be used where people will sit/play because there is very slight danger that creosote was used on them on the past (mild carcinogen). Not to mention it stains your clothes in hot weather.

If drilling metal it helps to use a centre punch and then a small drill bit to produce a pilot hole.

..to use on commercial oak veneered mdf? or is there a risk of the oil affecting the adhesive?

Sorry to resurect an old thread but it's taken me since February to get this far with my table(s). Click photos for larger version in new window. Last one shows the small workshop I made it in. Quite pleased with the results considering I haven't really tried to make anything that needed high...

That's what I plan to do I can't get the top right :-) It's going to be made from a veneered blockboard with a thicker mitred frame . If I can't get everything tight I plan to route a groove and put in some Ebony/blackwood strip or possibly even a banding of some sort if I can find one that...

Thanks for all the tips! I've used a lot of "ordinary" PVA wood glue over the years (mostly on model aircraft) and found it can be a bit soft and soften with time. I need to buy some more glue anyway so will probably give the titebond a go. There is a local supplier near me so looks like I'll...

Relative newbie could use some advice.. If you want/need to make simple 80mm chunky square table legs by joining 2 bits of 80mm*40mm do you.... 1) Just glue, clamp and move on... || 2) Worry about the wood cupping over time so carefully arrange the grain.... (()) ..too prevent joint opening...

I've been offered a reasonable price on a board made from oak strips roughly 40mm wide with an oak veneer. It's probably made so that a furniture manufacturer can claim to use "solid wood". Have seen sample offcuts and it actually looks pretty good without voids. The tables are going to be used...

In the end I decided to go with an oak veneered block board framed with 100mm x 35mm. I was going to simply rebate the frame to take the panel and increase glue area but I'm now wondering if that's safe/wise? Should I be thinking about making it a floating panel with a small clearance? Sorry...