I try and get it as white as possible although the colour can vary quite a bit as in most hardwoods. The oil yellows it a bit but as I said a decent finish is possible with little effort and skill :)
Another endorsement for beech. My early projects were all done in beech and its easy to get a good finish using danish oil :)
Having said that I have never used used ash (yet).
Dan,
I buy most of my timber from Arnold Laver at Irlam. They are ok but a bit expansive. I haven't used Irmass, are...
Hi all
I have just acquired a JPT - 310 thicknesser/planer.
unfortunately there was no manual.
I would appreciate it if any owners of this machine could loan me a copy to photocopy.
Thanks in anticipation.
John
I have a chest of drawers that I made from sapele.
I finished them using danish oil.
It has now been decided that they will form part of a bedroom suite which is painted white :shock:
What I want to know is how do I go about painting over danish oil?
What is the best undercoat/sealer to use...
Hi
I was in the B&Q warehouse in Bolton at the weekend. They had 8x4x3/4 birch ply excellent quality around 40 pounds a sheet a think. Not too far from you.
John
Hi
I too have the Ryobi router table. The heavy, cast iron table gives a very stable surface to work on.
I have recently installed a triton TRA001 router which makes adjustment easy and I can change cutters in a matter of seconds :)
This is a very capable and versatile piece of kit!
john
Arnold Laver prices are ok and they will let you select the boards you want. However their delivery charges are sky high :x On the subject of dust from iroko, I found the same problem with sapele. Nice to look at - not nice to machine :shock: