Recent content by AndrewP

Hi Philly Thanks for the crystal clear video, so much easier to get the hang of things when a/ it's explained clearly b/ You see it done Cheers Andrew

Hi Harbo Where did you manage to track these down? Bizarrely I have only seen them advertised on the other side of the pond. Andrew

If you like Japanese style saws, another option is a rip kataba (teeth on only one side) these are available from Axminster, Dieter Schmid, Dick Fine Tools or Classic Hand Tools. The German Bow saws are pretty cool too. Not wishing to add to the confusion here or anything :roll: Andrew

Thanks Neil Only problem now is I don't have any excuses left not to spend the money!! :shock: Next question (yes Ok so I might be playing for time here, the pound's very strong at the moment and I'm having trouble prising it out of my wallet) does anyone know a good supplier? Andrew

I'm looking for a way to make gluing up panels less traumatic; plus the idea of taking up less space is very appealing, but are they any good? I find it slightly worrying that the likes of Axminster has stopped selling them, is there some dark secret I should know? :? Thanks Andrew P.S...

Hi Ed As someone else with limited experience, I too was tempted to throw money at woodworking in an attempt to get great results, I forgot the one key limiting factor . . . ME. I have since found it much more useful to go the more measured route, while still buying great tools when I do buy...

Hi Charles I have used my frame saw for ripping by turning the blade to 90degrees to the line of the frame, then using it vertically to rip a board camped projecting off the front of my bench. I saw a picture of Tage Frid (?spelling) doing it that way. Andrew

I seem to recall Ray Isles telling me that the Clifton blades are too think to fit the 405, so it might be worth checking before you take out that mortgage :-({|= Andrew

Hi Pompon I too struggled with sawing straight, but went to Japanese saws fairly quickly and found that with practice they were my salvation. I think whatever you get used to, anything else will "feel wrong." I do saw on a "bench" of the trestle and beam type as traditionally used by...

As a slight derail :roll: what method of flattening the sole of a 22" woody would those of you who do that sort of thing, advise to a newbie who has no machine planer, who's longest metal plane is a LN low angle jack, and who needs the plane flat to flatten his bench - i.e. he doesn't have a...

Thanks Frank, I'm tempted to say "sounds simple enough" but I'll try it before I get so rash :wink: Good pointer Alf, it's nice to know I'm not the only one that frets needlessly!

One of my thoughts with round holes (apart from being easier to produce I think) is that I would still have the options of metal or wooden dogs. Anyone got any good ideas about making dowels stay at the height you want them? My other concern was will a softwood top deform from the focussed...

I recently posted about building a Japanese trestle and beam "workbench" which is now well underway. Last time I was agonising over imperial size dowels for draw-bore joints, guidance from this forum put me right, in the end I made roughly sized octaganol "dowels" from scrap and they worked...

Where can I get hold of a Brimarc catalogue, they seem able to defy the attention of Google :shock: Andrew

Hi Philly Haven't seen that one, a copy would be great. Thanks very much. Andrew :D