Marking/Cutting gauges

[Karl]

Hey folks

I am looking to buy a quality marking/cutting gauge.

I would prefer one which doesn't need the actual "pin" modifying, and have been thinking about one of the gauges which use a spin wheel to provide the mark.

Any suggestions/recommendations?

And are these wheels reversible?

Cheers

Karl

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Can't comment on wheel gauges, as I've only tried a Chaiwanese one, which sucked.
For me, the ultimate cutting gauge, though spendy, is Chris Vesper's, closely followed by Colen Clenton's. These work well both with and across the grain.
The remainder I find less versatile, due I think to the thin pins/blades, and in some cases the blade/pin fastening detail.
Beyond the cutter, the over-riding factors for me are the form, size and finish of the head along with security and ease of adjustment (the Antipodean gauges can both be squeezed smoothly into final adjustment - others, variously because of beam finish and quality (or lack) of screw shoe cannot.)
They all work, but some are tangibly pleasurable to use, just like a well prepared chisel, plane or saw.
Cheers
Ste

 

[woodbloke]

This is probably the best one, but one the other hand, for the price charged for it :shock: you could make yourself a whole shed full of gauges that would be just as effective. In fact for most work at the bench, several gauges are needed so that the set on one can be preserved as the job progresses, I have six above my bench (including a mortice gauge)...here's a pic of a big panel gauge made last year:

Ebony and Maple, cost about 10p to make...the price of a masonry nail - Rob

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Heck, that's nice Rob. I really need to make one of those.

 

[Karl]

Ebony and Maple, cost about 10p to make...the price of a masonry nail - Rob

HHhhmmmmm...got a few of those in the garage.....

 

[Paul Chapman]

I'd go along with what Rob said. I pinched his idea and made this one which works so well I use it all the time

If you are considering a wheel-type gauge, Alf did an excellent review here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4110

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Karl]

OK, got some scraps of Beech and Oak lying round the shop. Will have a go at making one myself. Any pointers/suggestions?

Cheers

Karl

 

[Paul Chapman]

Rob devised the best way to make the stock. There are two outer layers and two inner pieces. Plane up the wedge first (about a 5 degree slope), wax it well and glue the layers together with the waxed wedge in place so that it ends up like this

The bottom piece is added after sawing and chopping out the hole for the stem.

You also need to make a saddle as in the picture here

Then when it all goes together it looks like this

You need also to plane a small chamfer on the base of the saddle so that the pin can slide up close to the stock (that photo was taken before I did that).

Hope that's all clear but if not, just ask.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I am looking to buy a quality marking/cutting gauge.

I would prefer one which doesn't need the actual "pin" modifying, and have been thinking about one of the gauges which use a spin wheel to provide the mark.

Hi Karl

I have a few marking gauges that range from pin type (Stanley #65 is a nice vintage one to look for but you will need to modify the pin) through the wheel types, such as LV and Tite-Mark. Both the latter work very well, but the TM is that bit more special (and costly!). Keep in mind that all the add-ons for the TM (such as mortice or cutting wheels) also fit the LV.

I must tell you that I received the most wonderful gift from Wiley. Totally unexpected. It was a Japanese marking gauge that I have eyed for years. I am not sure if this particular one is still available as it seemed to disappear. Other similar ones are available.

What I want to say is that it is simply the best gauge I have used. It can mark both single and double lines. It does so cleanly and easily. This is particularly helpful in very hardwood - where the wheel gauges do not cut as easily.

Here it is alongside a smaller vintage version I have:

You owe it to yourself to look at this style (cutting gauge ratgher than opin gauge)

Thanks again Wiley!

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Mr Ed]

Karl

I would definitely go along with the general concensus that it is better to make your own, then you can have enough to preserve settings throughout a project. In terms of comparison to those on the market, I own a Glen-Drake Titemark which is thought to be one of the best, and I still prefer my shop made gauges every time.

This is my version, which I covered in detail in an Article in Furniture and Cabinetmaking Magazine Issue 135. It uses a scalpel blade clamped in behind the walnut block (a bit difficult to see on this photo) which gives you a disposable cutting edge requiring no preparation at all. The clamping mechanism for the blade can also accommodate a pencil should this be required.

It clamps on the diagonal which eliminates slop when adjusted. The bolts are drilled and tapped straight into the wood, which works fine.

All in, I reckon these cost about 30p each to make if use you srcaps of timber you already have.

You might find that you like some features of one gauge you see here and some from another - the beauty of making your own is that you can gather together the elements you like into a gauge bespoke to you.

Cheers, Ed.

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Hears mine a copys of the stanley 5601

and the component parts

I use 3mm silver steel for the blade they work very well I have just finished making brass knob for them all like the top two padauk ones.

Pete

 

[bugbear]

Hey folks
I am looking to buy a quality marking/cutting gauge.

The actual requirements on gauges are quite low. If you *want* something beautifully made or engineered, that your choice.

I would prefer one which doesn't need the actual "pin" modifying, and have been thinking about one of the gauges which use a spin wheel to provide the mark.

Data point; in most of the designs the wheels don't spin.

Micro adjust is also (IMHO) not needed; however some of the implementation are very nicely done.

Modifying a car-boot marking gauge is quite easy (though fiddly) and the result works well.

BugBear

 

[Joe]

I made a couple of simple Japanese style cutting gauges following the instructions in this Fine Woodworking article. I made one with the blade bevel on the inside and one with the bevel on the outside.

Joel

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I should toss in a cutting gauge I made (Tasmanian Blackwood, Jarrah and brass). This one has a reversable fence - can be used on either straight or curved sides ...

A few details ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

That's remarkably similar to the one Garett Hack was using.

(left of image, next to the handle of the LN chisel)

It even had the reversible fence.

BugBear

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi BB

Mine is inspired by the WoodJoy cutting gauge. No doubt Garret's is the WoodJoy original.

Here is a link: http://www.woodjoytools.com/page9/page9.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Garret's is a more delicate tool than the current Woodjoy offering. IIRC made by a friend - whether that friend be Glenn or not I don't know.
I like that style for slitting - something about the closeness to the work I think.

 

[Digit]

Nice looking tool Derek, very nice. But one question, how do you keep the head/shaft square?

Roy.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Roy

Take a close look at this detail image. It shows a sliding tenon. This sits in the mortice. Apologies about the quality (bit fuzzy). The gauge uses phosphor bronze. It is extremely hard stuff and gives the gauge good heft.

When you undo the adjustment bolt/lock, the fence can be removed, reversed, and reset for curved sides.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[bugbear]

Hi BB

Mine is inspired by the WoodJoy cutting gauge. No doubt Garret's is the WoodJoy original.

Here is a link: http://www.woodjoytools.com/page9/page9.html


Derek

I remember Garrett saying his had been "reworked".

Here's a photo from Chris (waterhead37)

Garrett's is a different wood (ebony?), and the stock is much shallower.

Definitely related, as you say.