ok well iv just made my first pine coffee table....buzzing...!!! ;o) ...the next and final stage is the finish....its made me realise just how mega important this stage is cuz the poor thing look so incredibly bare and cheap..!! ...iv seen a great white wash effect on a pine coffee table in a shop in town..lovely modern bright finish that id love to try.. ...its called something HOUSE WHITE...iv looked on line and could not get any info about this at all...google , you tube..ect... im quite nervous at this stage, its an xmas present for the mrs... so i dont wana cock it up..!! ......so ...basically iv got a sanded BARE wood pine coffee table that i want to finish in house white...a kind of modern white wash effect that really shows the grain..!! its quite a unique finish this.....any ideas guys...? ...if this is an industrail process that i cant do myself......any ideas what i can use for a nice modern finish..or where i can get some info on this..thanks....
white washed pine...how..?
- Thread starter ng24guy
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MikeG.
Established Member
Firstly, there are a number of ways of achieving this finish, and they are all easy. Secondly, whatever way you choose, you experiment on scrap first to see whether you like the result.
They way I would do it would be to water down some white emulsion, brush it on, then wipe it off immediately with a cloth. You can experiment with raising the grain first if you want, by wetting the pine a bit. Once the emulsion has dried, you have the choice of waxing or using a clear varnish.
Another way is to use a coloured wax-oil, again, with a wipe-on/ wipe off technique. Dead easy, and you would finish with a wax. In both cases you might experiment with a dark wax as well as with a clear, just to see what you prefer.
Finally, you can buy "liming pastes", which aren't traditional liming at all. Follow the instructions on the tin.
The emulsion method is one to remember, though, because you can do blues and greens etc, as well as the white, for interesting effect. It isn't a painted finish, because you wipe almost all of it off......it just leaves a hint.
Mike
They way I would do it would be to water down some white emulsion, brush it on, then wipe it off immediately with a cloth. You can experiment with raising the grain first if you want, by wetting the pine a bit. Once the emulsion has dried, you have the choice of waxing or using a clear varnish.
Another way is to use a coloured wax-oil, again, with a wipe-on/ wipe off technique. Dead easy, and you would finish with a wax. In both cases you might experiment with a dark wax as well as with a clear, just to see what you prefer.
Finally, you can buy "liming pastes", which aren't traditional liming at all. Follow the instructions on the tin.
The emulsion method is one to remember, though, because you can do blues and greens etc, as well as the white, for interesting effect. It isn't a painted finish, because you wipe almost all of it off......it just leaves a hint.
Mike
thanks for your replys gang......looks like abit of experimenting to do here..! ...i contacted a company iv seen recommended on here called liberon...yes they said white liming wax , possibly after a pallette dye..followed by neutral black bison paste wax should do the trick...but for now im gona go with the cheapest option on a spare bit of wood and see were we go from there....i was quite surprised liberon recommended using wire wool ON WOOD...! this is defo a first for me..! ya learn something new everyday....especially in this game..!!
bigjoe
Established Member
Wire wool is often used particularly as it de-nibs while adding the finish,almost like finishing and sanding in one go.
0000 is the grade normally used as far as im aware (thats what i use for wax finishes).
Joe
0000 is the grade normally used as far as im aware (thats what i use for wax finishes).
Joe
thanks once again for all your replys...im very impressed with this forum...!! iv got a couple of more questions if you can help...iv made the chunky coffee table..ie..4x4 inch legs...i plan to make a bed next with 5x5 inch legs in very chunky style...but, i cant seem to bye or even find 5x5 inch wood anywhere..( i live in nottingham by the way ) ive noticed the pine shops glue on extra wood to get the big size,i saw a bed with 6x6 inch legs in newark at kingsman interiors and it looked like they had glued on an extra bit to make up the big size... is this the only way to do it ? it seems like a lots of extra work...4x4 is the biggest ive found so far at harlow brothers in notts.....also...iv made the coffee table top out of 8x2 inch wood x 3 lengths glued together...worked a treat..!! they were left in the garage for a week or so to settle after i took them out the clamps,covered with a tarp...but, now iv brought the top into the house as it was getting quite damp in there ( condensation on the steel roof ) they are really starting to split quite badly , starting on the ends, which is now working its way down the wood...they are not near any strong heat at all..ie radiator or fire...i can live with it, its not too bad, but was wondering if iv done something wrong here..?
MikeG.
Established Member
Standard problem with woodwork...and a big lesson learned! Drop a photo on here and we'll analyse the design, but the fundamental is that wood shrinks across the grain, but not along it. Therefore, if you ever have the situation where one piece of wood is fastened across another at right angles then you are into the territory of splitting or bowing/ cupping. Timber should be seasoned indoors, in the room the furniture will eventually stand in, for weeks prior to being used, and should really be in the workshop for the minimum time possible.
Your table might be saveable, but we'll need to see a picture.
Mike
Your table might be saveable, but we'll need to see a picture.
Mike
ng24guy":w6ap6er6 said:
Hiya
I used the Woodwash from Ronseal as well to create this for my daughter that matched her bunk bed finish:
Edit - oops, just found the tin and it was Dulux White Ash Woodwash not ronseal.
HTH
Steve Maskery
Established Member
If you really do want 5" sq legs, I'd consider making them up from thinner pieces. 3 x ex-2" would give you a much more stable post and iff you chose your pieces carefully the glue lines would not be offensive. Indeed, you could make it up as a box section from ex-1". You do need lots for clamps for this sort of fabrication, though.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
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