What plane do I need?

[Pietrach]

Hi
I am very new to wood working and as per my previous post I am trying to make a picture frame as my first project, and learning curve at the same time.
I want to avoid buying a lot of equipment which I THINK I need, so I decided to start making the frame with no equipment and see what I need. So far I got myself a square, a tenon saw, and chisel. However, the problem I am facing is how to get the grain end perpendicular to the long grain? If I simply use a hand saw it rarely comes out square. I looked some advice and I think I will need a shooting board and a plane. I can make a shooting board, but what plane do I need? I read that for grain end I will need a shallow angle block plane. But then loads of people use 45deg plane for grain end.

What plane will work best for grain end on shooting board? It would be ideal if I could get a 45deg one to work, as I could then use it for planning other sides as well.

Also please recommend a cheaper, but still decent alternative to Stanley. I am a hobbyist and looking and was looking at Faithfull and Silverline. Are these any good?

 

[MIGNAL]

Buy a used but good (old) Stanley or Record. There are just so many on Ebay. You've just got to avoid the ones with issues.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Forget Faithful and Silverline, watch your local car boots and markets for a second hand Record or Stanley No. 4 or 5 (4 1/2 or 5 1/2 would be fine). Many would say the 5 or 5 1/2 is a better choice if you've only one. You can easily make a shooting board, but picture frames are the stuff of nightmares - they seem easy but they're not. I'd find something easier to practice on.

 

[Mr_P]

silverline and faithfull are at the poor end of the quality spectrum

If I was starting again the first plane I'd buy would be a block plane
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-RECORD- ... 2a4ee3cb0a

Loads on ebay at the moment, spotted some last wek going for £16

You can do everything with a small block plane, including shoot and end grain.

Small boxes , picture frames etc.. a doddle if you want to make something bigger however I'd recommend a bigger plane but you will still use your small block even on big jobs.

 

[lurcher]

or you could put your trust in me and will sell you a marples no4 ready to go to work on arrival £18.00 + p+p
as the marples are the same as a sorby plane you will have a tool that will last a lifetime also if you dont like it you get your money back
pete

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Go for it!!! Marples are nice planes - I've a No5 and a No7.

 

[AndyT]

I began in a similar way, not wanting to buy stuff I did not need. For years I managed with just a No 4 Stanley type plane.

If you want more convincing, have a look at Paul Sellers - eg on his blog here http://paulsellers.com/2012/09/buying-good-tools-cheap-smoothing-planes/. He is a strong advocate that you can do pretty much all you need with a No 4.

He also says - which is good advice - that you are better buying an old, decently made Sheffield tool, not a modern plane-shaped-object.

The difficulty for a beginner is then knowing what an old plane is like when properly set up and sharpened - but Lurcher has solved that for you. I strongly recommend that you take up his generous offer!

 

[DTR]

+1 for a No 5 or 5-1/2. For shooting end grain the mass of a larger plane outweighs any benefits of the low angle blade in a block plane.

 

[Owl]

Pete, if Pietrach doesn't take you up on your offer I would love to have it.

Brian

 

[Pietrach]

Pete,

Give me please until the end of today and I will give you an answer. Thank you
How much would be the postage you think?

 

[G S Haydon]

A regular plane will do fine on end grain. Here is an example of a standard plane doing alright https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a23nEfc-M94 . Sharp is the key really. Anyway, have fun, always good to hear of people giving it a go!

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

I'd say if you have no planes then a no 4 is the first to get. A low angle block is good to have as is a 5 and a 51/2 (well I imagine a 5 1/2 is good to have I don't actually have one) but a no 4 is more versatile. Lurcher's offer is a good one and I suggest you go for it (maybe I should put in one of those tool reviewers disclaimers "other than reading his posts I have no connection with lurcher", although I do sometimes strike the lurcher that lives a few doors down).
Paddy

Quick edit, I never strike my neighbour's lurcher, I stroke him

 

[Woodmonkey]

Never ever, ever buy any tool made by silverline. Ever.

 

[lurcher]

well my friend the postage is £7.00 to post 2nd class signed for if you want it let me no if not any one else want it they can have it also have a sorby no4 £25.00 + £7.00 p+p
both very nice tools
pete

 

[Pietrach]

Thank you for your offer but i will pass. I need to work out if i really need it. Thank you.

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

Pietrach, if you want to do woodwork with hand tools you really do need it. If you want to spend even less then a wooden plane would be an alternative but it has a much steeper learning curve. FWIW I think you are making a mistake, but of course that is your prerogative.
Paddy

 

[n0legs]

"What plane do I need" :-k
All of them :shock: :lol:

Welcome to the forum

 

[Vann]

What plane will work best for grain end on shooting board?

A Shooting Plane

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.a ... 48945&ap=1
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/joi ... ?node=4169

But you don't need one of these. A standard No.4 will do, a No.5 1/2 would be better.

Also please recommend a cheaper, but still decent alternative to Stanley. I am a hobbyist and looking and was looking at Faithfull and Silverline. Are these any good?

As others have said, don't buy a Faithful or Silverline. Don't buy a new Stanley or Record either - they don't make quality planes anymore. When you decide what you DO need, buy second hand (the older the better, within reason). A decade or two before or after WW2 is good.

It's very tempting to buy something new and shiney, but unless you're prepared to buy an expensive plane (several hundred quid) you're wasting your money. When I first got back into handtools 5 or so years ago, I nearly bought a new Record No.05. I still thank my lucky stars that I didn't. I would have spent $219 NZD on a mediocre quality tool to do work that I now do with a $6 NZD 1950s Record No.05.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[woodbrains]

Thank you for your offer but i will pass. I need to work out if i really need it. Thank you.

Hello,

If you are going to do woodwork, you are going to need some tools and a plane is a necessity. I can't think of a cheaper and more efficient way of getting a tool kit, than buying from someone who knows how to set up, fettle and sharpen a plane, and has done the necessary, and let's you HAVE it for pennies. There is no tool you can buy that will be as well sorted to work straight away, as the tool you have been offered, unless you want to spend around £250+for a new one made to fine standards. I would bite the mans hand off, or leave woodworking alone altogether, especially if you think it can be done with any efficiency or enjoyment with the terrible low cost tools available today. There is much more to tool performance than a beginner might even imagine. Cheap tools can be made to work, but only with the experiences of a seasoned woodworker! who knows to avoid these tools at all costs and this is the sort of guy who has offered you a good tool. Trust me, 18 quid plus 7 postage is as good as nothing for a tool that works and will save you a world of hurt in the longrun.

Mike.

 

[JanetsBears]

Thank you for your offer but i will pass. I need to work out if i really need it. Thank you.

Hello,

If you are going to do woodwork, you are going to need some tools and a plane is a necessity. I can't think of a cheaper and more efficient way of getting a tool kit, than buying from someone who knows how to set up, fettle and sharpen a plane, and has done the necessary, and let's you HAVE it for pennies. There is no tool you can buy that will be as well sorted to work straight away, as the tool you have been offered, unless you want to spend around £250+for a new one made to fine standards. I would bite the mans hand off, or leave woodworking alone altogether, especially if you think it can be done with any efficiency or enjoyment with the terrible low cost tools available today. There is much more to tool performance than a beginner might even imagine. Cheap tools can be made to work, but only with the experiences of a seasoned woodworker! who knows to avoid these tools at all costs and this is the sort of guy who has offered you a good tool. Trust me, 18 quid plus 7 postage is as good as nothing for a tool that works and will save you a world of hurt in the longrun.

Mike.

Totally agree with the above, it sounds like an absolute bargain and I would snatch his hand off at that price!

Chris