tormeks t3 and t7

[fraser]

Hiya,
Am thinking of investing in a Tormek-have used one plenty of times, know how fantastic they are but have never owned one. Will be used for chisels, spokeshave blades, plane blades-nothing too crazy yet. Won't be needing the hand tools kit or anything just yet. The question is, there is a £200 price difference? What is the difference between the two and is the t7 worth the extra money? Thanks[/quote]

 

[fraser]

Anyone?! Looking to buy asap!

 

[cambournepete]

I'm sure if you do a search on here or google you'll find plenty of information about the differences.
Only you can decide whether you need the T7.

I have a 1200, which is the old version of the T3, which is OK, but not as sturdy and only rated for 50% duty and a max of 30 minutes continuously on.

I spoke to Martin of Brimarc at CT and he said what I have is fine for my needs (mainly turning tools) and that I didn't need the T7.

If I was buying new, I'd probably get the T7, but only because it's so much sturdier.

Try and see both "in the flesh" before spending.

 

[Max Power]

The T7 has a larger wheel which therefore will produce a less hollow grind and its motor is rated for continuous use but either would be perfectly suitable for an amateur workshop

 

[fraser]

ok guys, thanks!

 

[oddsocks]

I assume you are buying new, but if not then make sure the arbor on a second hand one is a stainless steel one. My tormek (pre T7 but 250mm wheel) is 7 years old and I've just ordered a replacement (SSteel) arbor from axminster as the chrome plated mild steel one had corroded and enlarged the bearing causing wobble.

the new shaft set is £40.

Dave

 

[Dodge]

Just to throw a spanner in the works - My tormeks wheel had got very out of true and as the machine was very old I replaced it with a Sheppach Tiger 2000 and I've got to say at £100 it is in my opinion better than the Tormek and all the Tormek jigs fit it.

The Tiger 2500 is the larger version.

The results I get from it are exactly the same as the Tormek.

IMHO anyway

Roger

 

[Malboro]

I would honestly say get the T-7.

Its a larger machine and is a lot sturdier. Wheel is also bigger for those wider plane blades.

Motor is built for continuous running, whereas the T3 is 30 on/30 off (or there abouts at least! basically its not built for continuous running) . T3 has a plastic housing, and T-7 metal.

The deal with the Hand Tool Kit on the T-7 at the moment (£440 inc. Postage at www.aird-tools.co.uk) is also a cracking price.

If you want any help on the Tormek PM me or ask the question here and I should be able to tell you anything (Within reason of course!)

Honestly,

Go go for a T-7 it is worth it!

 

[fraser]

Ok you've convinced me, a t7 it is.
Next question-I've got a variety of brands and qualities of chisels, like most have. I'll be using this for these, spokeshave blades, plane blades and want to have a play about with the dirty chisels before i hit the special ones. Has anyone got information or a chart or something I can look at, which states what angle I should be honing at, plus bevel and microbevel angles when I move onto the waterstones. I guess these will differ between brands, does anyone know where I would find this?
Thanks again.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Ok you've convinced me, a t7 it is.

Good choice 8)

As a general rule, grind a 25 degree primary bevel and hone a 30 degree bevel. You might want to go a bit steeper if your blades are made from A2 steel or if you are using mortice chisels. But otherwise 25/30 is a good place to start.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[fraser]

So 25 on the tormek and 30 on the stones, cheers Paul. I seem to remember David charlesworth wrote a article on sharpening for f and c where there was a chart for different brands, Ashley isles and lie neilsen etc I believe. Don't know what issue it was though, does anyone else?

 

[PeterSk]

The nice thing about the Tormek is that using the natty little angle gauge that comes with it, you can use it to form both the primary and secondary bevels at whatever angles you like

 

[Lons]

Hi fraser

I bought my T7 from Handytools.co.uk - excellent service!

Just looked and their price (updated model) is £445 delivered but they have an offer of a free HTK 705 (hand tool kit woth about £100, I think)

Def worth consideration but you need to check by phone about the offer before placing any order.
I sorted the price on line for mine but then 'phoned and used my credit card, was delivered in 2 days.

http://www.handytools.co.uk/acatalog/Wa ... nders.html

http://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.aspx?Prod ... googlebase

Cheers

Bob

 

[Malboro]

Hi fraser

I bought my T7 from Handytools.co.uk - excellent service!

Just looked and their price (updated model) is £445 delivered but they have an offer of a free HTK 705 (hand tool kit woth about £100, I think)

Def worth consideration but you need to check by phone about the offer before placing any order.
I sorted the price on line for mine but then 'phoned and used my credit card, was delivered in 2 days.

http://www.handytools.co.uk/acatalog/Wa ... nders.html

http://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.aspx?Prod ... googlebase

Cheers


Bob

£440 (delivered) with the free HTK here!

http://aird-tools.co.uk/shop/tormek-wat ... 13676.html

 

[Lons]

£440 (delivered) with the free HTK here!

http://aird-tools.co.uk/shop/tormek-wat ... 13676.html

looks a good deal - I'd have liked the HTK I think :-k

 

[fraser]

thanks for the replies everybody, bought mine from aird-tools and it came a couple of days. having just started setting up, i havent got the leather wheel on yet-the wheel which it mounts on seems to be not only rotating but moving in and out, is this normal?!?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Dunno about the wheel moving around, but one thought:

I've got the Dakota 'Tormekkalike.'

I wasn't displeased with it at all, but recently the diamond wheel dresser finally turned up (been on back order since roughly the Norman conquest). Having finally been able to dress the wheel properly true, it's now working really, really well, and I'm really pleased.

So three thoughts arising:

1. get a diamond dresser to true up the wheel occasionally. It's worth it.

2. the Dakota (Rutlands) accessories fit the Tormek bars (I'm pretty certain) and they're a lot cheaper. I appreciate for many purposes the Tormek stuff is better, but I'm on a budget!

3. put a splash of central heating corrosion-proofer in the water you use. Not only will it reduce rust on the plane irons, but the shaft in the middle of the wheel too (the wheel is porous, obviously). An old friend of mine started doing this when diamond stones first became easy to get in the 1980s and still swears by it.

Hope some of the above helps.

Cheers,

E.

 

[big soft moose]

schepach do a tormek alike as well dont they - I'd imagine their jigs etc probably fit too.

 

[Eric The Viking]

schepach do a tormek alike as well dont they - I'd imagine their jigs etc probably fit too.

I expect so. I had a look at one at Yandles a few months back- the fittings looked very similar.

I couldn't say if it's better or worse than the Dakota one. On mine the motor failed after a month or so, but the replacement arrived promptly and has been fine.

Somebody mentioned duty cycle. It surprises me a little that the smaller Tormek isn't happy to run all day. The Dakota has a squirrel cage motor with a fan on the end, and doesn't warm up noticeably. It's got a big wheel though, and I'd guess the inertia means that grinding places little strain on it. I've certainly never made it slip yet, and I use it on minimum torque.

I'd be rather surprised if there's any real difference in performance between the machines, apart from the wheels themselves.

The Tormek ought to be best - the wheel certainly costs enough!

 

[miles_hot]

Why do you need to put a primary and secondary bevel on the blades? I know why we do it when hand sharpening (i.e. you have to remove far less metal when sharpening the micro bevel) however I find re-sharpening on the T7 to be so easy and fast I didn't see the point of the micro bevel.

Am I just being daft?

many thanks

Miles