Titch's Workshop/Brew Shed/Store - Build

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Titch

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Joined
9 Feb 2015
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Location
Manchester
Day 1 on the job, decided needed to make a start on a project that has been years in thought.
plan is still like shifting sands
but currently approximately 26ft by 8ft'ish

Sundays plan was to dig some foundation trench's and throw in some blocks ot work out spacing etc
So we marked out a line with some string and got to work after checking it was square'ish
And we started to dig, and dig and dig
shift soil
dig a bit more
shift soil
you get the idea.

SO pictures below are the results of a good solid days work with my 6yr old helper.
Some dad and son time ;-)


Helper shifting soil

Helper shifting more soil

Initial blocks to show line

Blocks showing the corner and end wall

Soil shifted so far, will be sued to backfill and create some nice flower beds once finished ( so i'm told )

blocks droped in at 600mm centres to check i had enough, plan to put some in the middle to support beams when i get that far

thats all for now.

A nice hot shower and a cheeky red were enjoyed afterwards
 
well another day on the plot
forgot pictures oops

so all the blocks int he above picture are now leveled and concreted in place.
all set at 600mm centers as measured by my helper.

However as i was setting them, it dawned on me i currently have the idea for my short joists heading front to back
but using less cuts the floorboards if i use T&G will be the same direction.

would this cause me any great problems?
i was planning 600mm centres with noggins between 1 to 2 per length alternately
or should i run some longer lengths with noggins front to back?
 
Hi Titch
Rule of thumb for depth of floor joists is span divided by 2 plus 2" so for 8'0" span use 6"x2".

If you were running the joists the long way you'd have to provide intermediate support otherwise you'd need 15"x2" joists.

Suggest stick with running them the short way and cutting T&G boards is not difficult with a sharp saw.

Regards Keith
 
As above, two rows of noggins will "box" up the joisting very well.
You didn't mention chipboard or timber T&G, If you use chipboard, then set the joisting carefully at 600 centres, and you shouldn't have too many problems.
Should you buy timber t&g, then buy lengths to suit 600 centres fixings too!
You may want to think about any proposed heavy machines or equipment now and "beef" up the relevant floor area inside, while it's easier.
Regards Rodders
 
apologies

currently
looking at T&G flooring

excuse this but my sketch is as follows



as the building is approx 2.4m wide i was just going to build the walls, then trim flooring a little to suit the internals
was thinking of maybe going for more noggins where needed

is this all ok ?
 
well today the first load of timber arrives
joists and framing
Selco seemed shocked at amount i've bought which confused me
but i want this thing to last

photos of delivery to follow now i wish the rain would pipper off

off to charge my drills ;-)
 
for the small amount of extra cost put OSB boards down first then tongue and groove will prevent drafts and greatly strengthen floor and make the flooring easier to lay.

my two cents!

regards richard
 
Finally turned up 1400hrs

Timber
20061890 Base Joist 6x2 2.4m 16
20061905 Joist 6x2 4.2m 4
20061905 Noggins 6x2 4.2m 4

20062040 Walls Wall Frame 3x2 2.4m 50
20062055 Header/Footer 3x2 4.2m 8

20062040 Roof Roof Frame 3x2 3m 15
Noggins 4x2 4.2m 4

Ancillary
425833929 Selco Deck Screws 1
334530801 Polythene BR85 2
253261302 Decking Edge Grain protector 1
172100001 tarpaulin 1
446510021 Thermalite Block 7.0N 100mm 10

After it arriving that late i got the DPC down ( i bought too much ) but having an extension soon so should be used up then.

Got about 5 joists in and a few noggins then the heavens opened, so a tarp on top of joists as they are and to try save SOME water retention on the DPC

so will be a lot of mop work i think tomorrow to move water ;(

OOH and with kids "helping" i cut up one of my 2.4 and 3m joist so will have to make some out of the 4.2m i bought for noggins to replace

hey no no issues just KIDS "helping"

i promise pics tomorrow
 
well the weather beat me into submission

couple of questions have arisen
i put a DPC underneath but even though i have covered it the rain has still found its way in and puddled up.
i presume primarily i need it on the block supports not actually all over, technically this is a weed suppression cover i suppose ?

so i can pierce the plastic to allow to drian ?
remove the center section of plastic, leaving the cover over the blocks and replace the center section with weed membrane ?

or do i actually NEED it ? seemed like a good idea at the time, but rain has annoyed me now.

i presume you gents would use furring's to enable some insulation to be placed between the joists ?

thanks
 
Another day opn the job, no rain was quite productive,
all the sides are done and noggins in

neatly stacked onto of each other prior to covering with some DPC to keep them dry.

Need to get the timbers for the doors and order the cladding
Final size is 8.3m by 2.5m

So onwards






 
As Crocodile Dundee would say " Now THATS a Workshop", A very useful size.
8.3m x 2.5m, or 27' x 8' in old money You'll get some toys in there!
Regards Rodders
 
Be sharing it but I'll get what I NEED. Brewing one end kids bike the other and tool in the middle ish
 
Sorry for lack of updates but kids parties etc

anyway i got a couple of nail guns cheap off ebay the other week, just ordered some 55mm coil nails.
660m of so of 22mm Loglap will be delivered Thursday
350m or so of 22mm floorboard for roof and floor aswell.
shingles to finish

Got this of a local builder via ebay last week
just over 6sqM per pack for £10 a pack, he said he had 234 but found another 3
so 27 packs 1220 x 455 x 65mm for £240 --- very happy
he also sent some foil backed paper, can i use this to wrap the building ?

i have this and some weed membrane i was going to use to sling the insulation between the joists under the floor ;-)

any thoughts welcome
still trying to work out the layers, i think its paper on frame with cladding ontop of that on the outside
fill void with insulation and cover ... can i use the DPC i have left over ?



 
Wood turned up 2 days early




680M 22 x 125 loglap
and
360m'ish 22 mm T&G

busy weekend for me then
 
Nice load of timber for the weekend, as you say, but at least you have the well equipped tractor and loader,
to help out, hired for a "small" fee, of course.
Regards Rodders
 
sons tractor if he will let me use it
just need to work out if the silver foil backed paper is ok for my layer between the cladding and frame

confusing stuff this building
 
I would have thought it perfectly situated inside the building, much the same as foil backed plasterboard or even the "spacesaver" roof insulation, I believe "shiny" side looking outwards to reflect the colder temperatures

Read the instructions or get a product leaflet , Does any of this resemble what you have?

https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid ... insulation

Regards Rodders
 
Working out my cutting schedule now god harder than I think to minimise waste

92 lengths at 4.8m
44 lengths at 5.4m

Wish me luck
 
Titch":1sr2rfsr said:
this is mine



looks like this stuff


http://www.novia.co.uk/products/vcl_ff1.html

or one i found on jewson site

I would have thought that the sheet insulation from jolly old Jewsons, or even Wickes,
(their version of Celotex) that has the foil both sides would have been more beneficial in material cost and more effective being foil backed on both sides for starters.
I have used the foil backed rolls you have and it is quite delicate and the foil joint and repair tape is really expensive.Staple guns can be a menace and Arrow stuff, again is not cheap!
Plus I do like the double sided foil, working both ways.
None of this is needed with the much easier to use sheet material.
Regards Rodders
 

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