Stripping oak sideboard - or not
- Thread starter Tom61
- Start date
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First of all, my apologies for not replying sooner.
I've been away since 2 days after my last post and away again tomorrow for a couple of days.
Thanks very much MM for one more of the many, helpful, detailed responses I've had. Greatly appreciated.
The dye it is then.
While I've been away, the wife's gone a bit mad with this oak lark.
Got back to find a lovely drop leaf bureau and nest of tables waiting.
I think she forgets I'm a novice.
But, I'm getting more confident armed with the advice given freely on here.
I used the oxalic acid. Got some the day before I went away.
It worked like magic.
Two small grey areas left to do again, but every other mark disappeared.
Really pleased.
Just got in from trying the scrapers.
One flat and one curved.
It made the top feel really smooth, but no shavings/dust came off like the bloke in the video managed?
Not too worried because it's smooth, just a little worried it's not 'ripping' more wood off?
Another question if you don't mind -
The curved edges on the top - how do I prepare them without going against the grain on the two ends?
The flat scraper would be a nightmare to use there - or is that just me.
The curved one would obviously be used across the grain.
Bearing in mind I can't stand the feel of wirewool - wimp - do I just use very fine sandpaper brushing in a curve with the grain?
Thanks.
Tom
I've been away since 2 days after my last post and away again tomorrow for a couple of days.
Thanks very much MM for one more of the many, helpful, detailed responses I've had. Greatly appreciated.
The dye it is then.
While I've been away, the wife's gone a bit mad with this oak lark.
Got back to find a lovely drop leaf bureau and nest of tables waiting.
I think she forgets I'm a novice.
But, I'm getting more confident armed with the advice given freely on here.
I used the oxalic acid. Got some the day before I went away.
It worked like magic.
Two small grey areas left to do again, but every other mark disappeared.
Really pleased.
Just got in from trying the scrapers.
One flat and one curved.
It made the top feel really smooth, but no shavings/dust came off like the bloke in the video managed?
Not too worried because it's smooth, just a little worried it's not 'ripping' more wood off?
Another question if you don't mind -
The curved edges on the top - how do I prepare them without going against the grain on the two ends?
The flat scraper would be a nightmare to use there - or is that just me.
The curved one would obviously be used across the grain.
Bearing in mind I can't stand the feel of wirewool - wimp - do I just use very fine sandpaper brushing in a curve with the grain?
Thanks.
Tom
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Hi Tom,
glad things are going well, have a look at how to sharpen a scraper using a burnisher. You don't need to go buy one just use a good hard metal rod, a round CRV screwdriver shaft will do if it's all you can find. When using the scraper once sharpened be aware that it will get hot and hurt. An excellent vid is this one with William Ng:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz6EpQu2HRo
His tips apply to the curved one as well with regard to the edges. Once you've done it and practiced a bit try it on the furniture piece. If you don't have the fancy stones use emery paper on a thick piece of glass as your surface with water or windolene (not the thick goop) as a lubricant. start with 1000g and work up to the highest you can get.
HTH
Edit for typos
glad things are going well, have a look at how to sharpen a scraper using a burnisher. You don't need to go buy one just use a good hard metal rod, a round CRV screwdriver shaft will do if it's all you can find. When using the scraper once sharpened be aware that it will get hot and hurt. An excellent vid is this one with William Ng:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz6EpQu2HRo
His tips apply to the curved one as well with regard to the edges. Once you've done it and practiced a bit try it on the furniture piece. If you don't have the fancy stones use emery paper on a thick piece of glass as your surface with water or windolene (not the thick goop) as a lubricant. start with 1000g and work up to the highest you can get.
HTH
Edit for typos
Thanks Droogs.
Now I know why my scraper didn't work straight out of the box!
Watched that video and 2 others.
Fully armed now with knowledge.
Tomorrow I'll have a go at getting the burr, and practice on spare wood.
Who said this restoration stuff was easy.
Oh, it was the wife.
Thanks again.
Tom
Now I know why my scraper didn't work straight out of the box!
Watched that video and 2 others.
Fully armed now with knowledge.
Tomorrow I'll have a go at getting the burr, and practice on spare wood.
Who said this restoration stuff was easy.
Oh, it was the wife.
Thanks again.
Tom
After 2 days of trial, error and dust, I have curly shavings!
This must be how man felt when he discovered fire.
On the downside, the wife was so impressed she wanted me to strip the whole sideboard.
Tomorrow, I will have a bare oak sideboard.
After lots of sanding and scraping it's nearly back to new.
In lots of pieces.
As she wanted modern, I'm thinking of doing the 2 balls at the front legs Georgian medium oak, along with the surround around the doors and the upstand on the top.
Any thoughts on how you feel it would look?
I'm using Georgian as my local builder's merchant only has English light oak, Georgian medium oak and Jacobean dark oak, which is too dark.
They only stock Colron. Is that a decent dye?
I'll be using a 'mouse' to put the dye on, if that's ok?
Then there's the wax.
They have a baffling array of waxes.
I have no idea.
Can anyone recommend a wax?
The English bloke's videos show him using one that he just paints on with a large artist style brush.
I'm thinking that would be ideal for all the insides, which I haven't stripped.
Is there somewhere I can go tomorrow and buy some wax and dye off the shelves, unless Colron is ok.
Many thanks once again.
Tom
This must be how man felt when he discovered fire.
On the downside, the wife was so impressed she wanted me to strip the whole sideboard.
Tomorrow, I will have a bare oak sideboard.
After lots of sanding and scraping it's nearly back to new.
In lots of pieces.
As she wanted modern, I'm thinking of doing the 2 balls at the front legs Georgian medium oak, along with the surround around the doors and the upstand on the top.
Any thoughts on how you feel it would look?
I'm using Georgian as my local builder's merchant only has English light oak, Georgian medium oak and Jacobean dark oak, which is too dark.
They only stock Colron. Is that a decent dye?
I'll be using a 'mouse' to put the dye on, if that's ok?
Then there's the wax.
They have a baffling array of waxes.
I have no idea.
Can anyone recommend a wax?
The English bloke's videos show him using one that he just paints on with a large artist style brush.
I'm thinking that would be ideal for all the insides, which I haven't stripped.
Is there somewhere I can go tomorrow and buy some wax and dye off the shelves, unless Colron is ok.
Many thanks once again.
Tom
Just read back through all the replies.
Musicman's last post answered my question about Colron and wax, thank you.
I'll Google Fiddes stockists.
So much help given on here I seem to miss the details.
Thanks to all again.
Tom
Musicman's last post answered my question about Colron and wax, thank you.
I'll Google Fiddes stockists.
So much help given on here I seem to miss the details.
Thanks to all again.
Tom
Musicman - Picking up the Fiddes today.
You say 4 coats is enough?
The Fiddes site says only use 2 coats?
One coat if it's a hard wood.
I realise you speak from experience, I just wanted to confirm you are saying 4 coats of Fiddes, and not some other finish I've got confused with.
Thanks.
Tom
You say 4 coats is enough?
The Fiddes site says only use 2 coats?
One coat if it's a hard wood.
I realise you speak from experience, I just wanted to confirm you are saying 4 coats of Fiddes, and not some other finish I've got confused with.
Thanks.
Tom
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Hi Tom,
The number of coats you put on is up to you, depending on how the surface is after each one dries and how shinny and deep you want it. just remember to lightly cut back before putting on each new coat by rubbing with 0000 wire wool or a fine grit sandpaper. the more coats you put on the more of a french pokished look you will get. It's not uncommon for some french polished pieces to have over 20 coats of shellac etc on to give it that deep shine?
Glad you are enjoying the experience
The number of coats you put on is up to you, depending on how the surface is after each one dries and how shinny and deep you want it. just remember to lightly cut back before putting on each new coat by rubbing with 0000 wire wool or a fine grit sandpaper. the more coats you put on the more of a french pokished look you will get. It's not uncommon for some french polished pieces to have over 20 coats of shellac etc on to give it that deep shine?
Glad you are enjoying the experience
You are best off not using wire wool on oak, as you'll likely end up with blue black spots all over it where the minute iron particles stuck in the open grain and the tannin reacts.
No problem.
For one thing it was the first advice I got about wirewool and oak.
For another, as I said at the start, I can't look at wirewool let alone use it.
But, should I buff the Fiddes oil wax between coats to harden it off before sanding between coats.
Thanks.
Tom
For one thing it was the first advice I got about wirewool and oak.
For another, as I said at the start, I can't look at wirewool let alone use it.
But, should I buff the Fiddes oil wax between coats to harden it off before sanding between coats.
Thanks.
Tom
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
No need for that Tom. Just give each coat a light going over between coats and leave the energetic stuff 'till the last coat. Just make sure you give each coat a sufficient amount of time to settle down before going at it. Depending on how warm yur working environment is will determine how much time it will take, warmer = quicker
Thanks Droogs.
Just found my first? beginners mistake.
Bought Colron light oak and Georgian oak.
Tried it on an area out of the way.
For comparison, an hour or so ago I tried a little Fiddes in the same area.
That one coat has made everything stand out better than either of the dyes managed.
That's about £11.50 down the drain.
Live and learn.
Tom
Just found my first? beginners mistake.
Bought Colron light oak and Georgian oak.
Tried it on an area out of the way.
For comparison, an hour or so ago I tried a little Fiddes in the same area.
That one coat has made everything stand out better than either of the dyes managed.
That's about £11.50 down the drain.
Live and learn.
Tom
Ok, after 4 weeks of dismantling, sanding, scraping, washing, wiping and oiling, yesterday I got to the best bit...
Putting it back together!
I'm very pleased so far, although it's just the frame and ends I've done.
One niggle I'd like advice about -
On the left and right of the frame containing the doors, there's 2 upright narrow filler panels.
Due to the sanding etc, it's taken away some of the thickness.
This will result in the frame leaving a slight gap between them when I screw it on.
It's not much, but I can see it now, and know it'll annoy me to death.
What can I use to fill these slight gaps?
Thanks.
Tom
Putting it back together!
I'm very pleased so far, although it's just the frame and ends I've done.
One niggle I'd like advice about -
On the left and right of the frame containing the doors, there's 2 upright narrow filler panels.
Due to the sanding etc, it's taken away some of the thickness.
This will result in the frame leaving a slight gap between them when I screw it on.
It's not much, but I can see it now, and know it'll annoy me to death.
What can I use to fill these slight gaps?
Thanks.
Tom
OOps! 
Just realised I had the frame upside down.
Put the first bit I'd marked left in the right-hand side.
All ok when I put them in their correct sides.
Told you I'm not bad at carpentry. :roll:
Sorry.
Tom
Just realised I had the frame upside down.
Put the first bit I'd marked left in the right-hand side.
All ok when I put them in their correct sides.
Told you I'm not bad at carpentry. :roll:
Sorry.
Tom
All built up and looking great - to me and the wife at least.
Now comes the buffing/polishing bit.
And my next question...
Read about it and watched videos.
Use wet and dry up to 2000 etc.
But, some say if the piece has had more than 3 layers of finish, it should be left up to a month to harden off before buffing?
And, a wax should be used when buffing to bring out the grain etc?
Is this correct?
I gave it 4 coats of Fiddes hard wax oil, leaving about 24 hours between coats, and used scotchbrite pads between coats.
I know someone on here will have the answer after years of experience.
Thanks.
Tom
Now comes the buffing/polishing bit.
And my next question...
Read about it and watched videos.
Use wet and dry up to 2000 etc.
But, some say if the piece has had more than 3 layers of finish, it should be left up to a month to harden off before buffing?
And, a wax should be used when buffing to bring out the grain etc?
Is this correct?
I gave it 4 coats of Fiddes hard wax oil, leaving about 24 hours between coats, and used scotchbrite pads between coats.
I know someone on here will have the answer after years of experience.
Thanks.
Tom
Well, there it stands in all its... glory?
I know lots of you will say I've ruined it by taking it back to bare wood.
But, considering the guy we bought it from was giving it a shabby chic finish if we hadn't have bought it, or that the wife wanted me to paint it all black, I reckon I've saved it and given it a new lease of life.
Who knows, it may have another 80 or 90 years in it now.
And, most importantly, the wife loves it!
I'm quite pleased myself, given that it's my first ever attempt.
Wouldn't have known where to start if not for the masses of advice given on here.
Some of you may feel I've just ignored your advice, but really I haven't.
I gave the wife all your recommendations and let her choose.
So, a big thank-you to all!
Blackrodd - Just looking at one of your early posts... you were right, it was long and arduous!
Errrr... any advice yet from anyone on my last post about buffing?
Bought a machine and raring to go!
(After I've filled that front left, top corner, and redecorated to do away with the red - I know :wink: )
Kind regards,
Tom
I know lots of you will say I've ruined it by taking it back to bare wood.
But, considering the guy we bought it from was giving it a shabby chic finish if we hadn't have bought it, or that the wife wanted me to paint it all black, I reckon I've saved it and given it a new lease of life.
Who knows, it may have another 80 or 90 years in it now.
And, most importantly, the wife loves it!
I'm quite pleased myself, given that it's my first ever attempt.
Wouldn't have known where to start if not for the masses of advice given on here.
Some of you may feel I've just ignored your advice, but really I haven't.
I gave the wife all your recommendations and let her choose.
So, a big thank-you to all!
Blackrodd - Just looking at one of your early posts... you were right, it was long and arduous!
Errrr... any advice yet from anyone on my last post about buffing?
Bought a machine and raring to go!
(After I've filled that front left, top corner, and redecorated to do away with the red - I know :wink: )
Kind regards,
Tom
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