spindle moulder block

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Bobbins

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Looking to buy a spindle moulder block (I'm new to Spindle Moulders, have recently got a SCM CU300K combi machine). Some of the tooling looks to be really expensive and I'm on a tight budget. I've seen some on ebay sold by a company PTA Direct. Cant post a link, but search ebay for "120mm x 40mm SPINDLE MOULDER CUTTER BLOCK & 6 KNIFE SET" - £141 and you get to choose which knifes/limiters you want - which seems like a good starting point for someone with nothing.

Has any had any dealings with these blocks and knifes. What is the difference between a cheap block like this and more expensive one?

Appreciate your opinions, especially if you've had first hand experience.

Thanks
 
I bougfht a CMT block set from David Biven Machinery Blackpool area). I think I paid about £90. He also has a huge supply of 40 & 50mm cutters and limiters which I believe he told me were bought from a liquidated company. He is very reasonably priced and very knowledgeable.

David
 
Thanks Nathan, yes I've looked a the whitehill products - they seem to be on the expensive end (approx £50 for a set of knifes/limiters) compared with approx <£20 elsewhere.

Thanks David - those CMT blocks look good - nice orange colour too.

I'd really like to know if the cheaper blocks are inferior in some way or other - perhaps they area not balanced as good? Any one had any trouble like this? Or perhaps the standard Euro knifes dont fit so well?
 
At the end of the day, with such a large amount of metal spiniing at around 10K rmp I would recommend that you seek further professional guidance or attend a workshop. Buying cheap second hand may not be the way to go unless you know the kit to be in good order.

Both Whitehill and CMT are quality brands, althought the CMT cutter block (Aluminium) I have is probably for lighter industrial use where Whitehill is aimed more at high use production work.

I think some of the cutters and limiters as earlier mentioned were being sold for approx a tenner a set.

You will only get wobble if either your machine has spindle issues or the block has been damaged in some way or there are bits missing from it. The better quality blocks, blades and limiters are balanced for use to prevent such issues. I would avoid the cheap Chiwainese blocks IMHO

David
 
Hi.

Get a combination block from whitehill. I think they call it combi head. It can operate as a rebate block with diposable knives, can also take standard euro cutters and can be mounted flush for scribing tenons.

I have browsed a number of catalogues from german, italian and a portuguese manufacturers and this one is unique and clearly the most versatile one.
Of course if you're in production you'd have dedicated blocks for each operation, but for small shops I think it's the best option.
I think axminster sell a smaller version of it.
 
Bobbins I have bought cutters and a block from them. The initial way to go though would be with the combination head, as someone mentioned. Axminster do one made by Whitehill
http://www.axminster.co.uk/whitehill-co ... bate-block
The main advantage is that it is a cutter block and a rebate block and I find the rebate block very useful. You can then buy Euro cutters from anyone (including Axminster,PTA or Whitehill) but these heads also take the deeper cutters (that Whitehill have). Geoff
 
Thanks for the advice so far. I've looked at the whitehill/axminster universal combi head block and it does look good. Although I've already got a rebate block and a wobble saw (which came with the machine) - so I'm not sure I need a combi head type block.

Are there other advantages to the combi head block such as knife compatibilty? I like the idea of being able to use a coutersunk bolt to enable passing the cut right over the block (presumably for longer tenon cuts) - I'm not sure this is possible with a regular euroblock, is it?

Geoff - are the cutters/blocks you've bought from PTA ok?

BTW, For those concerned for my safety (thankyou) - I have got some suitable training/mentoring lined up.

CHEERS :D
 
Bobbins":22djtp8c said:
BTW, For those concerned for my safety (thankyou) - I have got some suitable training/mentoring lined up.

At the risk of suggesting the obvious, you might defer expenditure until your training/mentoring has made you better informed
about what your requirements are, and what equipment might therefore fulfil them.

BugBear
 
Bobbins
The PTA cutters were good but I don't think will last as long as the Whitehill ones, especially if you have any MDF to machine. You are right about being able to pass the work over the block on the combi as it has the recessed nut. Also on this block you can use the deeper ( I think 55mm cutters from Whitehill) which you can't on the standard EuroBlock. This is really useful if, for example, you use a T&G set which is on the same knife and limiters. You don't have to change cutters for the T & the G and you only buy one set not two. Geoff
 
Giff":3fcn9qq4 said:
Bobbins
The PTA cutters were good but I don't think will last as long as the Whitehill ones, especially if you have any MDF to machine. You are right about being able to pass the work over the block on the combi as it has the recessed nut. Also on this block you can use the deeper ( I think 55mm cutters from Whitehill) which you can't on the standard EuroBlock. This is really useful if, for example, you use a T&G set which is on the same knife and limiters. You don't have to change cutters for the T & the G and you only buy one set not two. Geoff

Interestingly, the Axminster Axcaliber Euro Cutter Head - also claims to be compatible with 55mm whitehill cutters...from their website --- "the 100mm block will accept both 40 x 4mm and 50 x 4mm Euro cutters plus the 40 x 4mm and 55 x 4mm Whitehill cutters.".

The other option "Whitehill Universal Moulding Block" from axminster -£92 for the ally one...claims to accepts all knife sizes as well - and is cheaper then the combi block at £164. As stated before I already have a rebate block so this functionally may not be needed in the same block. This "Whitehill Universal Moulding Block" also has the added benefit of a coutersunk bolt.

A question that comes to mind is, with the Combi head set up as rebate block with countersunk bolt, will this allow for better and longer tennons, compared with the standard whitehill universal block with straight cutters and couter sunk bolt - i.e. the addition of scribes make for a cleaner cut, and the recessed bolt a longer tennon. Am I right in this thinking?

BTW. My immediate plan is to make some kitchen cupboard doors and some tounge&groove boards.

Thanks.
 
Using the recessed flush block won't be able to make longer tenons unless you cut the shoulders separately. it will be limited by the diameter of the block and after that will curve. I think for the cupboards and T&G a cutter with both mouldings is easier and less setting up. I use a loose tenon (Domino) (could be homemade) to re-enforce the scribed joint but with the right glue it might not be necessary. Don't glue the panel in though !
 

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