So How LOUD is your Planer/Thicknesser Exactly?

[mindthatwhatouch]

but I find it quite refreshing to hear people haven't got phones. Sure they have their use for emergencies but it must be nice to not be connected and available all of the time.

As do I, but then again some people find it quite strange that I use the OFF button on my phone.

 

[Sporky McGuffin]

I use my mobile extensively for work. At weekends it goes on "do not disturb" mode and is used as a Spotify remote control.

 

[MikeJhn]

Still using a Nokia 6210 now on Giff Gaff, £10.00 paid into the account seven months ago and I still have £9.30 left on the account, in case you guys don't know this is one of the only non monthly payment phone service providers.

Mike

 

[Doug B]

Never measured the dB on my Hammer but I do know the Silent Power version is a hell of a lot quieter.

Cheers Peter

Indeed, my extractor is now noisier than my thicknesser......now if only I could get a silent block for my Wadkin planer :-k :-k

 

[Lons]

Can't do without mine.
Use it as an alarm clock, camera, receive regular wotsapp photos of my granddaughter and most importat need it on all the time so mates can arrange golf at VERY short notice. :lol:

 

[Wizard9999]

Can't do without mine.
Use it as an alarm clock, camera, receive regular wotsapp photos of my granddaughter and most importat need it on all the time so mates can arrange golf at VERY short notice. :lol:

Hells bells, what make of planer/thicknesser can do all that? :wink:

Seems the OP's original intent for this thread has kind of been lost.

Terry.

 

[Bodgers]

I have a cheap Titan combo with cast alloy top and universal motor. It is basically crazy loud. The motor is loud, but this is completey drowned out by the sound of the blades munching through a piece of Oak.

I pretty much use it in sessions of no more than 30mins in length and once per weekend. Otherwise a fear a visit from the neighbours. I will measure it though...

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[custard]

P/T is probably one of the biggest purchases you will have if you are just starting out,
From what I understand all of the units does the same job (the super cheap ones and expensive ones) however the main differences is in the Noise levels you get and how sturdy they are

That statement is just plain wrong, and if you base a buying decision on that assumption then you may well make an expensive mistake.

What I generally see in hobbyists workshops is a P/T that's way, way overdue for a blade sharpen...often to the point where the machine barely functions. More expensive P/T machines often have accurate quick change knife systems, either Tersa or some other proprietary method. If you can stretch to it then it's worth thinking about, because a P/T with blunt knives is just an expensive shelf for your coffee. IMO your biggest priority when choosing a P/T should be figuring out how you intend to keep your knives in tip top condition, either quick change or really getting on top of the traditional sharpening/setting procedure, and clearly understanding if any particular machine will be a help or a hindrance in that respect.

In addition the more expensive machines will have counterweights/springs on the tables, much higher levels of built in accuracy, more comprehensive table adjustments, better gauges for monitoring cut thickness, multiple feed speed controls, better anti-snipe rollers, the ability to adjust thickness in very small increments without leaving feed roller tracks on the workpiece, better extraction, etc, etc.

I've seen dozens of P/T machines in operation and there's little correlation between price and noise once you get beyond the brush motor/induction motor question.

 

[blackrodd]

P/T is probably one of the biggest purchases you will have if you are just starting out,
From what I understand all of the units does the same job (the super cheap ones and expensive ones) however the main differences is in the Noise levels you get and how sturdy they are

That statement is just plain wrong, and if you base a buying decision on that assumption then you may well make an expensive mistake.

What I generally see in hobbyists workshops is a P/T that's way, way overdue for a blade sharpen...often to the point where the machine barely functions. More expensive P/T machines often have accurate quick change knife systems, either Tersa or some other proprietary method. If you can stretch to it then it's worth thinking about, because a P/T with blunt knives is just an expensive shelf for your coffee. IMO your biggest priority when choosing a P/T should be figuring out how you intend to keep your knives in tip top condition, either quick change or really getting on top of the traditional sharpening/setting procedure, and clearly understanding if any particular machine will be a help or a hindrance in that respect.

In addition the more expensive machines will have counterweights/springs on the tables, much higher levels of built in accuracy, more comprehensive table adjustments, better gauges for monitoring cut thickness, multiple feed speed controls, better anti-snipe rollers, the ability to adjust thickness in very small increments without leaving feed roller tracks on the workpiece, better extraction, etc, etc.

I've seen dozens of P/T machines in operation and there's little correlation between price and noise once you get beyond the brush motor/induction motor question.

+ 1 For the above , well said and very relevant.
Rodders

 

[Sporky McGuffin]

What I generally see in hobbyists workshops is a P/T that's way, way overdue for a blade sharpen...often to the point where the machine barely functions. More expensive P/T machines often have accurate quick change knife systems, either Tersa or some other proprietary method

That was a big issue for my p/t - made worse by my inability to get the knives back in when I investigated. The springs that push them up were so strong that even with the setting jig I needed both hands to hold the blades down at the right position, leaving no hands to tighten the locking bolts.

The absolute best "upgrade" I made to my p/t was changing all of those springs for much weaker ones (still well able to push the blades up, but only one hand needed to hold the setting jig in place). Before that just trying to remove the blades rendered the machine unusable because I couldn't get them back in!

 

[DTR]

Well done, Team. All this talk of needing ear defenders and upsetting the neighbours has put me off again. Good work! 8)

 

[sitefive]

well just dropped half a grand and went for the metabo 260c
way way more than I initially wanted to spend however went for it as I need it for the long run and hope so the quality is there And won't be as loud as the cheapo titan.

 

[Ian down london way]

The (free) apps (iphone) that I just downloaded only go up to 100DB. That is no where near enough for my PT.

 

[RogerP]

well just dropped half a grand and went for the metabo 260c
way way more than I initially wanted to spend however went for it as I need it for the long run and hope so the quality is there And won't be as loud as the cheapo titan.

I'm sure you'll be happy with it after getting it set up. Mine is the very similar SIP version and it been working well for many years.

 

[JakeS]

To add another data point, my partner was planing some stuff up this afternoon while I'm working from home, so I took the opportunity to measure the noise levels.

The planer is at the front end of the garage, which has a steel door to the outside and a solid door to the inside of the house.
- Just on the house side of the internal door: ~45dB
- Just outside the steel garage door: ~50dB
- Inside the garage, standing close by: ~75dB
- Holding the phone right up next to the planer while it's cutting: ~80dB

The P/T is a Metabo hc260something, and the extractor one of those cheap dustbin ones.

The thing that surprised me is that the noise level doesn't actually change all that much while it's cutting - just the pitch. I guess most of the volume comes from the extractor anyway, that's certainly all I can hear sitting several rooms away from the garage door.




Now I have the noise meter on my phone it's going to be hard to resist measuring my boss while he's on the phone...

 

[RogerP]

Those cheap dust extractors have horrible noisy brush motors.

P/Ts create mainly chips not dust so you need a chip collector (not a dust extractor) they have a much quieter induction motor and much larger bag capacity.

 

[JakeS]

Those cheap dust extractors have horrible noisy brush motors.

P/Ts create mainly chips not dust so you need a chip collector (not a dust extractor) they have a much quieter induction motor and much larger bag capacity.

I would like a larger induction-motored extractor, but I can't justify it at the moment - and I'd also need another half a square metre of floor space to keep said extractor in! The dustbin thing works OK, it's just annoyingly loud and has too small a capacity. As it goes, though, the manufacturer does explicitly state that it's for collecting shavings as opposed to dust:

http://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-dust-chip-collector.html

 

[BearTricks]

I have a cheap Titan combo with cast alloy top and universal motor. It is basically crazy loud. The motor is loud, but this is completey drowned out by the sound of the blades munching through a piece of Oak.

I pretty much use it in sessions of no more than 30mins in length and once per weekend. Otherwise a fear a visit from the neighbours. I will measure it though...

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

Bring it round, I could use something to compete with my neighbour's TV.

 

[custard]

Bring it round, I could use something to compete with my neighbour's TV.

 

[John15]

Just how accurate are these phone apps for recording noise levels - something of a gimmick?

John