Sheffield Tony
Ghost of the disenchanted
Racers":2984ydhy said:
Looking at the photos, it seems that for once the dog kept its dangly bits well out of the way ! Smart move.
Plane Makers...something to float yer boat??
- Thread starter jimi43
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Looking at the photos, it seems that for once the dog kept its dangly bits well out of the way ! Smart move.
Well done Jimi - you are very brave!
I think I would have built a block wall protection shield around it?
I have to harden some clock arbors and pinions by protecting with wrapping wire and I'm not looking forward to that!?
No mud though, so no explosions I hope?
Rod
I think I would have built a block wall protection shield around it?
I have to harden some clock arbors and pinions by protecting with wrapping wire and I'm not looking forward to that!?
No mud though, so no explosions I hope?
Rod
Brilliant!
I hope the hot oil didn't crack the door of your kiln...
... but maybe you could mend it with a teaspoon or two of that fireclay?
I also hope you will be bringing these along for us all to admire - and see if they work on iron-hard holly!
I hope the hot oil didn't crack the door of your kiln...
... but maybe you could mend it with a teaspoon or two of that fireclay?
I also hope you will be bringing these along for us all to admire - and see if they work on iron-hard holly!
Cheshirechappie
Established Member
Nice one, Jimi!
The clock and watch making fraternity use a tempering technique of 'flaming off' the hardening quench oil, and it works well. Mind you, their workpieces are usually only an inch or so long, and a few millimetres in diameter!
It will be interesting to see how long the edge lasts on the floats. My guess is quite a long time.
The clock and watch making fraternity use a tempering technique of 'flaming off' the hardening quench oil, and it works well. Mind you, their workpieces are usually only an inch or so long, and a few millimetres in diameter!
It will be interesting to see how long the edge lasts on the floats. My guess is quite a long time.
woodpig":3fk1o4wj said:These work well on wood as well.
Can't lay my hands on one at the moment but they're used in car body repair shops.
http://www.kenteurope.com/uk/shop/viewf ... &type=Auto
Try here :-
http://www.power-tec.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=0&item=7428
jimi43
Established Member
In my experience....the surform and the file are significantly different to the float.
The float...which is specifically made to work on plane making in the throats and other difficult to work apertures...relies on the row of burrs which are created from sharpening...the most important of which is the first "tooth".
This action is akin to a row of cabinet scrapers, one following the other in their removal of a very fine layer of wood in a flat fashion.
Other tools work by tilting the face to present the teeth in more of a planing action.
I think I'm right about this but I bow to more expert wooden plane makers amongst us.
In the interest of my health and safety, and having proven the operation of the Heath Robinson PID setup...I decided it was time to put it all away safely...
That's better!!!
Certainly, I am now encouraged to use this little kiln more often now that I know I can regulate the temperature automatically without having to manually switch it on and off..which exhibited a fairly large hysteresis of at least +/- 10 degrees instead of +/- 1 degree celsius which the PID is capable of.
I also received a Holtzapffel pattern Walnut handle from Matthew at Workshop Heaven....
...which I think is one of the most attractive of all handle shapes ever and works well with the float shape...
And I seem to have bought a few of these...I suppose I had better make some more float shapes now...seems rude not to! :mrgreen:
Toby has the other float...which he is currently testing and he will post an update on his findings later.
Jimi
The float...which is specifically made to work on plane making in the throats and other difficult to work apertures...relies on the row of burrs which are created from sharpening...the most important of which is the first "tooth".
This action is akin to a row of cabinet scrapers, one following the other in their removal of a very fine layer of wood in a flat fashion.
Other tools work by tilting the face to present the teeth in more of a planing action.
I think I'm right about this but I bow to more expert wooden plane makers amongst us.
In the interest of my health and safety, and having proven the operation of the Heath Robinson PID setup...I decided it was time to put it all away safely...
That's better!!!
Certainly, I am now encouraged to use this little kiln more often now that I know I can regulate the temperature automatically without having to manually switch it on and off..which exhibited a fairly large hysteresis of at least +/- 10 degrees instead of +/- 1 degree celsius which the PID is capable of.
I also received a Holtzapffel pattern Walnut handle from Matthew at Workshop Heaven....
...which I think is one of the most attractive of all handle shapes ever and works well with the float shape...
And I seem to have bought a few of these...I suppose I had better make some more float shapes now...seems rude not to! :mrgreen:
Toby has the other float...which he is currently testing and he will post an update on his findings later.
Jimi
jimi43
Established Member
Cheers Andy!!! :mrgreen:
I reckon that most of the thin "saw" type ones can be done in blocks...stacked and clamped together so I can do a few at a time...different thicknesses and also the same applies to the hardening...all wired together and then fire clay over the top.
Also...got a few "spoonfuls" of fire clay as you suggested and the two halves of the door bricks are now setting in the kitchen...not sure it's going to work..I think I need special fire brick cement but really it doesn't affect the overall function of the kiln...it's such a small crack and the mica window is huge by comparison.
Still...we shall see.
I guess I shall be doing quite a bit of hardening to "fill the handles" in the coming months. I think if I plan it right...I can do it on cold days and save on heating!! :mrgreen:
I shall be bringing the float along with the panel plane to MAC Timbers...really looking forward to the day...
Cheers mate
Jimi
I reckon that most of the thin "saw" type ones can be done in blocks...stacked and clamped together so I can do a few at a time...different thicknesses and also the same applies to the hardening...all wired together and then fire clay over the top.
Also...got a few "spoonfuls" of fire clay as you suggested and the two halves of the door bricks are now setting in the kitchen...not sure it's going to work..I think I need special fire brick cement but really it doesn't affect the overall function of the kiln...it's such a small crack and the mica window is huge by comparison.
Still...we shall see.
I guess I shall be doing quite a bit of hardening to "fill the handles" in the coming months. I think if I plan it right...I can do it on cold days and save on heating!! :mrgreen:
I shall be bringing the float along with the panel plane to MAC Timbers...really looking forward to the day...
Cheers mate
Jimi
Hi,
apologies for not having the time to say thanks for some great tool posts lately (as per normal!) but re hot things I have spotted an ad that may interest you?
"One sitter kiln - old but working
One wired in kiln - not currently working but someone who is handy could get it going
Second one size of washing machine approximately
First one about half that size"
They sound fun! Free and near me if you want I will see if there going still / take pics / secure. If I can rub some brain cells together you may have a pm soon with link.
Dean.
apologies for not having the time to say thanks for some great tool posts lately (as per normal!) but re hot things I have spotted an ad that may interest you?
"One sitter kiln - old but working
One wired in kiln - not currently working but someone who is handy could get it going
Second one size of washing machine approximately
First one about half that size"
They sound fun! Free and near me if you want I will see if there going still / take pics / secure. If I can rub some brain cells together you may have a pm soon with link.
Dean.
jimi43
Established Member
Hi Dean.
WOW...sounds like a plan though the size sounds like they are probably potter's kilns.
I may be wrong but I think these are at a lower temperature than is needed for firing enamels hence steel hardening.
A bit of sleuthing though would not go amiss...and any information you can glean would be most appreciated.
Even if I don't take up the idea..there are those out there who might!
Let me know.
Andy...it didn't work mate...
It looked fine...I left it to "harden" all night with some damp tissue over it so it didn't dry out too fast and crack but there was simply no adhesion whatever.
I had a feeling that I could only use this stuff for moulding...I think there are special cements for fixing and filling...so going off to explore that.
Another idea I had was to get some of that fibreglass kiln liner and cut it to that shape and sandwich it behind the broken pieces thus thermally bridging the crack!
Plan B!
I will let you know how this works out..these things are always handy to know later down the line.
Jimi
WOW...sounds like a plan though the size sounds like they are probably potter's kilns.
I may be wrong but I think these are at a lower temperature than is needed for firing enamels hence steel hardening.
A bit of sleuthing though would not go amiss...and any information you can glean would be most appreciated.
Even if I don't take up the idea..there are those out there who might!
Let me know.
Andy...it didn't work mate...
It looked fine...I left it to "harden" all night with some damp tissue over it so it didn't dry out too fast and crack but there was simply no adhesion whatever.
I had a feeling that I could only use this stuff for moulding...I think there are special cements for fixing and filling...so going off to explore that.
Another idea I had was to get some of that fibreglass kiln liner and cut it to that shape and sandwich it behind the broken pieces thus thermally bridging the crack!
Plan B!
I will let you know how this works out..these things are always handy to know later down the line.
Jimi
Sheffield Tony
Ghost of the disenchanted
It is a bit of an odd shape so maybe not, but I was wondering if the vermiculite board used in wood stoves could be used for this - it can be cut and shaped fairly easily.
jimi43
Established Member
Sheffield Tony":qa7akvbx said:
I was thinking the same Tony...and that will be PLAN C....but for the moment...I ordered some of this stuff...
ELECTRIC KILN REPAIR THERMAL BLANKET MATERIAL
....and I think if I cut an oval...with the correct aperture and lay this down first..then screw the two halves of the broken door against it...... the heat barrier will be whole again.
Interestingly when I was looking for this..there are quite a few of these little kilns knocking about for sale under £300 and some in need of TLC which would suit too...so if anyone is looking for one...that seems to be the place to start.
Jim
tobytools
Established Member
Ok, sorry took so long to get back with my review. I had a bit to do to get this ready (make handle and sharpen) I also had to have a good play with the float before I could comment, not testing it on scrap bits of wood that Ive chopped and chewed up but something that is a working progress.. More on that in a second.
Firstly... Thanks jim for being so kind as to give me this tool, I've been going on about floats for far too long
As stated I received a parcel that contained the float and a Swiss triangle file, thanks again jim.
First impression of the tool where that of a kid a Xmas when he get that Xbox or play station for the first time, sad I know! Not having a spare handle about I made one. Next I selected holm oak and used copper pipe as the ferrel but it's not a handle making thread so I won't keep on, needless to say I have some way to go yet.
Once handled, I couldn't resist and gave it a go... It worked out of the box. Now I know that can't be said about a lot of tools these days so it passed the second test.
Moving onto the sharpening, usually a daunting task but when the triangle file just sits in the teeth gully, a consistent cutting edge is easily achieved. The tempering and hardening are just right, not too hard so that I would spend years sharpening and not too soft that it can't hold an edge... The perfect balance or what I would consider perfect in regards to the tool and it's intended uses.
Once the sharpening was done I began to use it for it's intended purpose (making a plane) (wedge). It will in due time be used to level the beds and such.
As you can see it leaves a smooth and flawless finish; abrasives will not need to be used. The wood is beech so average on the hardness and it worked as you would expect being a hand made tool from someone who cares about what he's doing...
This is about as far as I've got with it but as I progress in my plane making you will be seeing more and more of it.
I can't believe I have done woodwork without these types of tool until now..
Firstly... Thanks jim for being so kind as to give me this tool, I've been going on about floats for far too long
As stated I received a parcel that contained the float and a Swiss triangle file, thanks again jim.
First impression of the tool where that of a kid a Xmas when he get that Xbox or play station for the first time, sad I know! Not having a spare handle about I made one. Next I selected holm oak and used copper pipe as the ferrel but it's not a handle making thread so I won't keep on, needless to say I have some way to go yet.
Once handled, I couldn't resist and gave it a go... It worked out of the box. Now I know that can't be said about a lot of tools these days so it passed the second test.
Moving onto the sharpening, usually a daunting task but when the triangle file just sits in the teeth gully, a consistent cutting edge is easily achieved. The tempering and hardening are just right, not too hard so that I would spend years sharpening and not too soft that it can't hold an edge... The perfect balance or what I would consider perfect in regards to the tool and it's intended uses.
Once the sharpening was done I began to use it for it's intended purpose (making a plane) (wedge). It will in due time be used to level the beds and such.
As you can see it leaves a smooth and flawless finish; abrasives will not need to be used. The wood is beech so average on the hardness and it worked as you would expect being a hand made tool from someone who cares about what he's doing...
This is about as far as I've got with it but as I progress in my plane making you will be seeing more and more of it.
I can't believe I have done woodwork without these types of tool until now..
Attachments
jimi43
Established Member
Thanks for the review Toby...much appreciated and nice to see it being used for the job it was intended...making planes.
Now we just need to make the other types! :mrgreen:
If anyone wants to read the whole story in one place I have also updated my blog...
HERE
Thanks again Toby...star job and great handle too! =D>
Jimi
Now we just need to make the other types! :mrgreen:
If anyone wants to read the whole story in one place I have also updated my blog...
HERE
Thanks again Toby...star job and great handle too! =D>
Jimi
Potters kilns run at 1300c - 1400c iirc.
G S Haydon
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=D> Jim, Toby =D> . I have followed the progress and it's been great. Your blog post was a great read Jim, choice PPE to boot!
jimi43
Established Member
phil.p":28kx0974 said:
Cheers for the clarification Phil.
Sadly the kilns have been taken but that was to be expected....but at least I know that they are candidates now.
Jimi
jimi43
Established Member
G S Haydon":gw21asy8 said:
Thanks Graham and thanks for the proof reading too!
Appreciated.
Jimi
G S Haydon
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Ha! Jim, you learned that I was not best suited to that task
jimi43
Established Member
G S Haydon":zza0e8cz said:Ha! Jim, you learned that I was not best suited to that task
Codd's Wallop Graham!!! I have always been in awe of your eloquence! (and other large animals!!) :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Seriously appreciated your help mate! =D>
Jimi
